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Rear Axle Leaking Oil Seal & Possible Wheel Bearing

Steven, I don't know why you need all of those parts. Are you planning an attack with the grinder? Some or consumables yes, but the rotor etc? I would buy the Miler bearing with confidence. They don't sell rubbish bearing and as long as there i grease in it, it will be fine. Collie rear wheel bearings are about the single most unstressed component in the universe. Usually seals are best from Mr T.

Don't over think it buddy. You may not even need the bearing. Get it apart then do the shopping.

Chris
 
Chris said:
Steven, I don't know why you need all of those parts. Are you planning an attack with the grinder? Some or consumables yes, but the rotor etc?
I agree that three of the parts may not be unnecessary, the Rotor locking collar will probably go again, the thrust washer and may get away with the C ring/clip, but the ABS Rotor is not included in those prices. I'm hoping that it will go again that item as it is £66 from both Milners and Roughtrax, lord knows what it would be from Toyota!!!!

Chris said:
I would buy the Miler bearing with confidence. They don't sell rubbish bearing and as long as there i grease in it, it will be fine
I agree with you :)

Chris said:
Collie rear wheel bearings are about the single most unstressed component in the universe. Usually seals are best from Mr T
Tis my thinking, to get bearing from Milners if required and the O ring and inner and outer seals from Toyota and maybe a new bearing locking ring from them aswell :)

Chris said:
Don't over think it buddy. You may not even need the bearing. Get it apart then do the shopping
Good point :think: I do think that this bearing has been done resently and I'm only in the position that I am due to the O ring having been cut and glued!!! If its all apart though then all may as well be replaced. If not then I'm back to were I was at the start and thats just replacing the inner oil seal and the O ring.

I wonder if its possible to remove the inner bearing seal in situ for a look inside it :think: RoughTrax sell both the inner and outer bearing seals themselves if you know what I mean, the actuall seals on the bearing.
 
Heres a link to my bearing change. ;)

viewtopic.php?f=22&t=11591&start=1460

sae70 said:
My M8 Giles with the LR carries a spare rear wheel bearing when were out and about in case he needs one, reckons he can change it out in under 30min with no special tools :roll: :snooty:

IMHO The toyota design is a very poor one. :thumbdown:

I mean what the hell do you do if your wheel bearing goes in the middle of no where? :roll:

Carry a pair of rear shafts already built up with new bearings? :think:

Chris said:
Surely refitting is just a length of steel pipe and BFH applied correctly. Getting it apart is the technical challenge. Pop round mate and we'll do it after lunch.


Chris

Personally id rather pay some one £5 and have it slowly and precisely pressed on. :naughty:

But I know a lot of people do use this method. :think:

My mate did his first few with the scaffold tube and BFH method on his toyota, but found the bearings only lasted a few thousand miles. He then got some pressed on and theyve lasted 8+ thousand miles and are still going strong.

I think due to the fact the old ones are such a bastard to get off, i wouldn't want to risk damaging the new ones when fitting them. :thumbup:
 
Ben said:
I mean what the hell do you do if your wheel bearing goes in the middle of no where? :roll:
Choose a truck with a full floater rear axle, like say a locked 80 :lol:
 
Ben said:
Heres a link to my bearing change..................
Cheers for the link and information Ben :D :thumbup: Very interesting :think:

Your bearing looks to be 1/3 the depth of mine and you also dont have the ABS Rotor or the second locking Collar :!:

The other complication I see is that the C clip on mine is between the bearing locking collar and the ABS Rotor, so not so easy to remove if you wish to press everything off rather than butcher it all off.
 
Ben said:
I mean what the hell do you do if your wheel bearing goes in the middle of no where? :roll:
A more serious answer is carry the spare parts to do the job and hope you can get to someone with adequate tooling if you need it, that's what I did with the 100 on trips, not that I was ever in the middle of nowhere.
 
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After much pondering with respect to parts & the prices, I noticed that on Milners web site they are doing a complete rear wheel bearing kit for my truck including all you need for £29.00 + VAT :shock: :shock: :shock:

Thinking that it may differ in quality to buying the individual items I gave them a call and the chap I spoke with confirmed that everything in the kit was made up of the same items that they sell individually. Happy days I said I'll have one of those kits then. I also had a quick chat with him to confirm that the 'O' ring in the kit would be the correct size, saying that one I bought from them some 18months previous was far to large!! He confirmed that they'd had no complaints and it should be fine. While completing the order we discovered that the price on the internet was different to the one on his system, £29.00 + VAT verses £41.00 + VAT!!! To their credit he honored the £29.00 + VAT price for me :D :D :D

I've just checked on their site and the price for both the kits has now gone up and the price of the bearing has also now gone up!!! Oooops :oops: :shifty: :)

Here's what came from them and I'm very happy :D :D :D

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A Toyota bearing, Toyota bearing locking collar, Toyota outer seal and then branded items for the following, the inner seal, the 'O' ring and the ABS rotor locking collar :D

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The 'O' ring is not in the above photos as I knew as soon as I saw it it was tooooo BIG :|

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I shall let them know that they are still supplying an 'O' ring that is too large! It needs to have an ID around 74mm & an OD of around 78mm the one from Milners is around 89mm ID & 96mm OD :(

I've ordered an Inner oil seal and 'O' ring from my local Toyota dealers that I'll pick up tomorrow :)
 
That o-ring looks about the right size for a 100 series.
 
OK, so popped over to my local Toyota main dealer today in Chelmsford and picked up the inner seal and an 'O' ring :D

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So all that is required to do the job is now together...........

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.............and all for only £69.00 can you believe :shifty: :lol: :lol: :whistle:

Now I should mention that after much pondering and seeing that my bearing is a double taper roller bearing unlike Bens single ball race one and combining this with the fact that I'm off down to Falmouth for Fal week in the next couple of days (boaty thing for a week) :) I decided to drop the whole lot off to my local bearded mechanic with 50years experience in the trade and a 50Ton press, telling him no rush see you in a week or so :D :D :D :thumbup:

Here's the difference in size between the Milners supplied 'O' ring and the main dealers supplied one :!:

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I have now contacted them and sent them some photos, so hopefully will be sorted for the future :thumbup:
 
What a result! all genuine parts for only £69! :shock: :clap:

must be nice buying genuine parts and not getting ripped off for a change! :lol:
 
UPDATE :)

Been away for a while with the family, but got back on Sunday :)

So this morning I popped down to the mechanic that I left the axle with to see how he had got on :|

He'd not tried to do the job till Friday but discovered that the two bits of channel I'd procured to allow him to suspend the hub in his 50Ton press had just bent when the press's pressure gauge got to 25!!! He'd normally expect a bearing of this size to start moving around 100 on his gauge!!! So I took the lot round to my m8 who's a metal fabricator and got him to weld some flat to either side of each of the channels :D

Here it is back in the press :D

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No further drama, the shaft started to gracefully slide out of the hub through the bearing when the press's pressure gauge got to 45ish :D :thumbup:

Turns out that the bearing was indeed full of EP90 gear oil and not a sniff of bearing grease to be found :shock: :shock: :shock:

Be warned those that follow in my and others footsteps, I so nearly just replaced the inner seal and 'O' ring as the bearing felt slick and smooth with no signs of play what so ever!!! If I had only done this then I'd imagine I would have had a destroyed bearing very soon after!!!

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The ABS rota locking ring and the ABS rota were removed using bearing spreader plates with threaded studs down to the hub.

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The bearing locking collar had to be removed with a combination of disc cutting, heating, chiseling and swearing from what I understand as there was no room to get a bearing spreader plate beneath it to get it started.

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You can also see in the above photo the spacer/thrust washer. The only item that I didn't buy new, but wished I had as it's taken a bit of a beating and is slightly miss shaped. Nothing a small file and a light touch with a hammer want cure, but it would have been nice to have a new one in hindsight :(

I left him to it at this point, came home and fitted my new inner seal in prep for the half shaft and hub coming home :D

Old seal still in situ :)

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I used a couple of small slip joint pliers to pull it out and it came out real easy :D

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I then noticed some quite considerable damage to the seal and axle mating surface on the axle that must have been made by someone doing this job in the past using screwdrivers to lever out the seal :| :naughty:

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I then noticed that this damage had also damaged the metal outer sealing face of the oil seal so much so that I'm certain that this must have been the cause of my long term oil leak.

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I spent some time with a needle file and some Emery cloth smoothing and removing the damage and then fitted the new seal with a little instant Blue Gasket to help soak up the repair work a little, using a tool borrowed from my mechanic :D

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Hope to be getting the axle and hub back soon :)
 
Re: Rear Axle Leaking Oil Seal & Possible Wheel Bearing

"... disc cutting, heating and swearing.." is pretty much the same feedback that my guy gave.
 
I found this video the other day which i found interesting. guy makes a tool for removing the old bearing. :)

He rambles on for the first 5 mins, but after that he shows the tool hes made. :thumbup:

[youtube:345u5sc9]LYg6z5coNmk[/youtube:345u5sc9]
 
Did this get completed successfully? I am going to have to do the same thing soon and really appreciate finding this. Im in Essex to perhaps the same mechanic may be able to do mine now he is experienced?
 
Sorry, must have missed this some how :think:

Yes it was all completed and I've been using the truck since :icon-biggrin:

Im not sure that he would want to do another one, but I'm happy to give you his number if you want to ask him if he'd like to have another go at one :icon-biggrin:
 
how about get the bits you know are right from Milners or Roughtrax and get the O ring from Yota
 
Steven... I don't know 80s series but regardless, your seal preventing diff oil from reaching your hub is not working. These get damaged when installing and removing the axle. Get a new seal, and tap it in incrementally with a flat piece of wood and a heavy hammer or heavy brass drift, making sure the board is at 90 degrees, not angled. In the future, always keep a couple of spare wheel bearings (one each of rear and front), plus the inner and outer seals. Any details you require, just hit me.
 
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