Rear diff lock actuator...

[Lars Bo Kjeldstrom]

....or should I say most of it

Reading up on the problems and solutions you´ve all shared in here, I decided to roll under TGE and sort out the
problemo .....started out nicely and off came the nuts and guards -and ehm , well I just shot a couple of
photos might be better than trying to explain!

Looking okay...except...this...

I guess this is a common thing with the LC here in these parts of the world, given the temperatures, humidity, FE-Al
problem and the extensive salt abuse by the government

Also I wonder if it would have been better with more usage....IIRC it has been in real use about...ehm...twice


Anyway..I believe this means ARB airlocker! Will there be any issues regarding the case?..or something else to remember -or consider before taking everything apart?

 

[Julian Voelcker]

Anyway..I believe this means ARB airlocker! Will there be any issues regarding the case?..or something else to remember -or consider before taking everything apart?

An ARB air locker won't fit - they are designed for non locked axles.

Best thing to do is to replace it with factory locker and then make sure that it is very well coated with a waxoyl/Dinitrol product that will keep the moisture out.

 

[Lars Bo Kjeldstrom]

[quote="Lars Bo Kjeldstrom":2jvgpr66]Anyway..I believe this means ARB airlocker! Will there be any issues regarding the case?..or something else to remember -or consider before taking everything apart?

An ARB air locker won't fit - they are designed for non locked axles.[/quote:2jvgpr66]

? I have not heard this before !!...so I would need to swab the diff as well?

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

It will be cheaper to just put a new actuator on even at dealer prices but check the 80 series window rubber thread for a post from Mr Rubie you might be interested in

 

[Lars Bo Kjeldstrom]

Yes appearently Jon but my brain is looking at the ARB dings

...I am already discussing this with Mr. Rubie, so at least you guys agree!!!

Other thing is...I ordered both lockers at a promotion 8 months ago, so if I just go for the front I loose the discount + the Free Heavy duty Compressor ....maybe better to take both and shelf the rear one?

Hmmm....

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

I didn't think ARB did a rear locker for an OEM e-locker equipped axle, only the none locking ones. The casing is different where the diff bolts on so you'd need the diff from an none locking axle to fit the ARB into and then modify your existing axle casing so it will fit. You could buy a few OEM actuators for what it will cost you to get an ARB in there so unless your discount amounts to buy one get one free on the ARB's I can't see how it would make sense to still get both

 

[callum]

anything to stop you using any old toyota 9.5" diff (e.g from a rusted 60 series)? I don't think you have to change studs (apart from length) when changing between locked and non locked diff in an 80, but of course it could be different for a 100. You might need to swap r&p, but i presume a shop will be setting things up if you're putting in an arb.

 

[Lars Bo Kjeldstrom]

I didn't think ARB did a rear locker for an OEM e-locker equipped axle, only the none locking ones. The casing is different where the diff bolts on so you'd need the diff from an none locking axle to fit the ARB into and then modify your existing axle casing so it will fit. You could buy a few OEM actuators for what it will cost you to get an ARB in there so unless your discount amounts to buy one get one free on the ARB's I can't see how it would make sense to still get both

I guess by now....they don´t ....somehow that intel slipped from me!

I checked the ARB calculation. Last years price was 765 GBP (now higher) on ARB airlocker, 290 GBP on ARB HD compressor. Total 1820 GBP.

My quote says 1285 GBP in Total (2xlock.+1xcomp.) ....so 535 GBP in discount. Thats why if I want the F.locker + Comp. it might be better to shelf a locker at 230 GBP?

You are quite right about the E-locker...maybe just fix it and see how it works with the air locked front!!

anything to stop you using any old toyota 9.5" diff (e.g from a rusted 60 series)? I don't think you have to change studs (apart from length) when changing between locked and non locked diff in an 80, but of course it could be different for a 100. You might need to swap r&p, but i presume a shop will be setting things up if you're putting in an arb.

Yes, I will take it apart in a pro shop and just be the "student" ...I will have to look into the different axle types now.....will be interesting but was a surprise

 

[Chris5-7chev]

Hi Lars you are not on your own here, I've decided to just buy a new unit, feel there's no choice really;-

Chris S.

 

[Lars Bo Kjeldstrom]

wow Chris ....you sure win the contest of badly worn actuators ...I guess its been out of order for..ehm..a couple of month!.. no....years... neither... decades !! At least we get trained in negotiating the obstacles without locker

You might want to contact Mr.Rubie as well .....

 

[Chris]

Blimey Chris. Been launching boats with your 80? Where has that gone? It's like it's dissolved. Looks like you could just turn that by hand. How about a push / pull lever sticking out of the side.

Anyway you've no time for that. Thought you were coming to finish off my bumper for me.


Chris

 

[adrianr]

How about a push / pull lever sticking out of the side. -

i read about someone doing that recently, with a lever to inside the cab, pretty good and low cost fix...

 

[andyw]

Think it was here http://forum.difflock.com/viewtopic.php?t=67105

 

[nlbyrne]

How about something like a g-wagon hydrolic system.
Push / pull lever valve in the cab and cylinder on the diff.
No messing with air tanks and the likes
And you can operate them separately.

 

[Chris5-7chev]

Hi all, I thought I'd have a go at winning the most rotten/dissolved/chemically destroyed difflock actuator competition if
there is such a thing? Lars I suspect there's some chance of a repair to yours but the actuator under my '95 has probably
seen saltwater at some stage as well as the Al-Fe reaction........??
Please tell me if it's a stupid idea but have thought about Glassbead blasting and laquering the remains of mine, would look
funny sat on the [strike:2kkwevck]mantlepeice[/strike:2kkwevck](shelf in garage)!

 

[Chris]

How about a hood ornament for the Yellow Peril?

Might actually deflect some of the mud as it flies up over the front.

Chris

 

[Chris5-7chev]

A hood ornament doont think so, we'll clean it to it's base metal, attach it to a Top Gear style plinth then send it
to someone? you. (I did have a spare but Wayne80 has that in his import now).

Chris S.

 

[Lars Bo Kjeldstrom]

Hi all, I thought I'd have a go at winning the most rotten/dissolved/chemically destroyed difflock actuator competition if
there is such a thing? Lars I suspect there's some chance of a repair to yours but the actuator under my '95 has probably
seen saltwater at some stage as well as the Al-Fe reaction........??
Please tell me if it's a stupid idea but have thought about Glassbead blasting and laquering the remains of mine, would look
funny sat on the [strike:qwxlpi0w]mantlepeice[/strike:qwxlpi0w](shelf in garage)!

Chris, I admire your optimistic approach towards repairing my actuator !!!...I am not sure anyone will agree on that though??

You might start a trend though by blasting and preserving the worn out pieces ...maybe we should have a tread on really "dead" car parts?

 

[Cptsideways]

Sacraficial anode that's what they are, as used on boats normally!

 

[Lars Bo Kjeldstrom]

So, a new "sacreficial anode" has been ordered from Mr. Rubie -and I decided to repair my Rear locker instead of changing the whole rear axle to get airlocker installed. I am happy with this decision and thanks for all inputs, very valuable .