Rear diff lock bolt sheared - help needed

[jjsaul]

Hi all

In the process of checking over the lockers on my truck (they haven't worked for a while) I discovered why my rear one wasn't working (other than a dodgy connection on the plug)...

At some point the bolt that holds the actuator shaft to the fork has sheared. I don't know whether it's in use or a previous 'mechanic' has sheared it off. I'm going to drain the oil and check the diff pan.

Any ideas on how to remove the remains of the old bolt? I have a replacement one on order once this is out.

 

[Gav missin]

Hi all

In the process of checking over the lockers on my truck (they haven't worked for a while) I discovered why my rear one wasn't working (other than a dodgy connection on the plug)...
Use a easy out
At some point the bolt that holds the actuator shaft to the fork has sheared. I don't know whether it's in use or a previous 'mechanic' has sheared it off. I'm going to drain the oil and check the diff pan.

Any ideas on how to remove the remains of the old bolt? I have a replacement one on order once this is out.

View attachment 143276

Use a easy out on it. Most engineering firms or garages should have one.

 

[Shayne]

I use a small drill to go right through the bolt if i can creating heat to break the bind then screw one of these into it https://www.screwfix.com/p/screw-ex...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CJeeqrr4vtoCFakD0wodzEsHDw

 

[frank rabbets]

Hold the shaft in a vice and try tapping it round the circumference with something hard and sharp like a centre punch. It should be loose as it won't be corroded nor bottomed on the threads. When out a bit cut a slot in it for a screw driver.

 

[jjsaul]

Thanks - will give these options a go. I did have a go at it with a drill bit but I might need to go and get some better / sharper ones...!

 

[Richard Turner]

You can drill a small pilot hole right though and then drill back through very slowly from the other side with a drill bit a couple of mm bigger. As you can get to both sides. This will wind it out quite nicely without disturbing the threads.

All the above options are good though.

I think when I took my one out it had loctite on it. The screw should have a shoulder on it.

 

[Chris]

Personally I think I'd be tempted to try a left handed drill bit - no not kidding and it will probably grab and undo. You might get the same result with a RH bit if the hole is threaded all the way through. It shouldn't be a difficult one to remove.

 

[StarCruiser]

Or just drill it from the other side…

Centre punch it first in the centre of the bolt. If it has loctite it may need heating to break the loctite bond especially if it’s the stronger loctite, which it probably isn’t.

 

[Chris]

I couldn't recall if it's a through or blind hole Rich. I know it's a very special little bolt. I have a spare one - somewhere!

 

[StarCruiser]

I’ve no idea Chris. I don’t have one, you see! I was just going by Richard’s post, just before yours, saying it went right through.

 

[jjsaul]

I'm hoping to have the new bolt in my possession before I start the job (it's on it's way now) so at least I will know what I'm working with! Thanks for all the suggestions (and moral support!) so far.

 

[Richard Turner]

I remember it as a blind hole too. I meant drill through the whole lot. The pilot drill from the front was so where you know where to drill going the other way!

Left hand drill bits are the best and quickest but you need very high quality ones, I think my set were at least £100.

These are the best type of extractor, but very expensive (don't seem so expensive if it saves you having to replace a cylinder head for a broken exhaust stud though!) They have to be the proper Ridgid (or Snap on / blue point rebadged), the knock off ones are crap.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/273150531891

 

[jjsaul]

These are the best type of extractor, but very expensive (don't seem so expensive if it saves you having to replace a cylinder head for a broken exhaust stud though!) They have to be the proper Ridgid (or Snap on / blue point rebadged), the knock off ones are crap.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/273150531891

I'm not sure I can manage those, in the description its 560kgs...

I've ordered some cheap ones on Amazon as they can arrive tomorrow, I'll see how I get on. You can get at both ends of the remaining bolt so the method from reverse side should work.

 

[jjsaul]

It's out!! My £5 Amazon set saved the day on this occasion.

Next problem though - trying to refit the locker and the actuator shaft doesn't seem to go into the axle casing as far as it should??
Have tried it loose and also with the locker bolted up and neither works. That's with the locker in the 'engaged' position and it won't go in by hand, neither will it go in by bolting it up tight and trying to engage it, it goes a short distance but then no further and you can hear the motor strain.

Any ideas??!!

 

[Richard Turner]

Put the rear axle on axle stands, turn the wheels, use a lever bar through the plate hole where the sensor is to slide the bit the actuator shaft bolts to across to the passenger side. When it is lined up it it should move easily. When it is engaged then put the actuator back on and test it.

 

[jjsaul]

We've done some digging and established the selector fork has been installed in the diff upside down by whoever last had it out....I'm not pointing fingers as I don't have hard evidence but it was apparently last taken out by one of the well known UK cruiser specialists.