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Rear Heater pipes

CEE

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Feb 11, 2021
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Hi

I have coolant leak form the pipes that go down the bulkhead and up into the floor under the drivers seat This is the rear heater I think.

I don't need this heater and have so far failed after hours of looking to find some I can buy...

Why not just bypass the heater as others have done. Fine but I just don't 10% know which pipes to join

I think it is the two I have circled - is that the case? or does the matrix get coolant from other places too?

1613045118672.png


Any help much appreciated because it is driving me crazy.

Thanks,

Colin
 
Those 2 look right to me - when my rear heater pipes started leaking, I did consider replacing them with rubber fuel hose (you can search on here for details of how others have done that).

However as I never really use the rear heater it seemed a bit pointless. So I just capped those 2 pipes at the bulkhead. The (front) heater works fine like that and has been so for nearly 10 years!

:thumbup:
 
so I am thinking out loud what is to stop me disconnecting both those rubber hoses, cutting of 3 or 4 inches from one and using the clips (or jubilee clips) to connect the to together in a little U shape ?
 
obviously I would have to make sure it didn't touch the exhaust there
 
I wouldn't bother connecting them and feeding hot water straight back into the cold side. Just cap each one with a blanking plug.

I don't know the 90, but that doesn't look like the exhaust up there on top of the engine. It looks like your 90 has an intercooler. It shouldn't get hot enough to damage your hoses.
 
OK cheers - yes I suppose it is the intercooler now I think about it.

The reason I went for the hose is because i've got a length right there in front of me guaranteed to fit and not melt / perish etc....

Where would I get a blanking plug? That wont pop out / will be reliable etc ?
 
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I used a couple of M10 (or maybe M8?) bolts screwed in tight and secured with jubilee clips.
 
OK I get it you were plugging a hose.

If I take off the hoses which looks least destructive option then I will be plugging metal.

My other option is to cut the rubber yes and then plug it with bolts / jubilee..
 
I can't remember ottomh but I'm sure my setup is the same as yours - so if you undo the jubilee clips and unplug the metal pipes from the rubber hoses (circled in Red in your first pic), then all you have to do is plug the rubber hoses with a bolt or similar and refasten the jubilee clips. You don't need to "cut" anything.

You can remove the pipework to the rear heater or not, as you like at a later date. I've left mine in-situ but I usually take the path of least resistance... :icon-wink:
 
OK see this is where I need to be very careful to make sure I understand you experts.

Where you are coming from is that the coolant is flowing out of the rubber hoses... so pull them off and block them and so job done. Yes easy.

But surely it isn't - its flowing from the thick tubes out of the little T piece in to the hoses so it's that T branch that needs to be blocked.

Having said that half way down the bulkhead I the hoses go into the formed metal pipes so I could pull them off there and block them. That's prolly the best plan actually.
 
Bit late to this discussion, but looking at the pics, I think there maybe some confusion. Those little tee pipes serve some function don't they? No idea what but they got to warm something somewhere. So we're talking about joining (not blocking in my view) the two larger pipes that run behind. Only one of which is visible in the pic in terms of the clip you'd need to remove.. 6" piece of pipe, u shaped, shove it on, leave the rest to die peacefully.
 
Thanks Chris,

So those two little pipes carry warm coolant to the matric under the drivers seat. I've followed them.

They leak and I don't need that rear heater so that's why I am blocking them.

The larger hoses are part of the main cooling system I think and I am not going to touch them.

In terms of block / reroute yes my initial thought was to reroute the two together which I might still do.
 
Just been out to look at mine and the pipework is different on my 5vz-fe.

You can see where I have plugged the 2 hoses - top centre and the other you can just about see in the centre where the plugged hose is right up against the bulkhead.
IMG_20210212_141743.jpg
 
OK thanks yes I see. I think these two plugged ones are the equivalent of my 2 ones that T off the main pipe.

I do agree that the can be plugged no probs I am going to do it tomorrow before the rain comes Sunday so I will soon find out...

Cheers
 
On a slightly different note but related to heating. My Colorado heater is blowing out mildly hot air. It just doesn't seem to be able to blow out hot air. I've checked the temp of the pipes going into and out of the heating matrix and they are very hot when engine at temp.
Anyone any ideas why the truck heater is just poor, I've owned this one for 16 years and as far as I can remember its always been the same...or are they all like that??
 
Must be something wrong I think, as my heater has always been roasting when you turn it right up.

Never needed the rear heater, even in cold Scottish Highland winters, the front heater was more than capable of keeping the whole cabin nice and toastie.

Mine being the petrol, it warmed up pretty quickly too - no experience of what the diesel is like in that respect.
 
+1 for something wrong with your heater Buller. Mine is diesel and also gets way too hot if I put the heater on full, and within half a mile from a cold start. See if your heater matrix is bunged up with crud and needs hoovering out. Maybe it would benefit from flushing in the same way you would do a rad. It really should be toasty inside, even in this weather. I got rid of my rear heater too, because the front one on its own provides plenty of heat.
 
Ahh, it's the wee pipes that are the rear heater. OK. Well I'd just put a piece on as a through by pass then. Now if it's the actual metal tees that are leaking, then pull them and stick a bit of copper water pipe into the other two pipes and clip them up nice and tight.
 
Hi Thanks for the help.

I cut them and plugged them with a M10 bolt and 3 jubilee clips each.

I did have a plan for a more elegant solution to get them off the other end of the metal fitting about half way down the bulkhead and so they would not need to be cut.

But it was very tight and they were fused to the metal and I was trying to get some pliers down there to compress the clips and I was putting very large force on them and they would not come off. I looked and saw that the brake lines were down there and I was resting my arm on the brake cylinder and I just thought this has got the potential to go horribly wrong here and why am I making life difficult for myself - I've never used the heater ever.

So Stanley the knife come out, then I plugger the holes and it seems the leak has stopped.

By the way since these two pipes are very high in the engine bay I don't know how the car was leaking when stood because once the fluid had dropped below these points there should have been no flow...maybe I was imagining it leaking when stood. Certainly when the water pump was running it would have pushed it straight out of the rusty pipe under the drivers seat.

Anyway seems all sorted.

Thank you again all.

1613380966489.png
 
This is what I done on my Colorado when the heater pipes leaked underneath. Jut pulled two ends of of opposite pipes and looped them around. Uses the same pipes and fittings so if I can be arsed to get some copper brake pipe and replace the old ones everything is still there.
Just need to top the fluid up and make sure there's no air in the system.
 

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