Rear Upper Door swap-out pictures

[Matt Wright]

Hi guys

Ruby arrived in good condition bar a couple rust spots and questionable modifications.. I'm busy working through all of them as time and resources permit. One thing that had to be done for security reasons and the fact that I had a big door in my boot was to swap the existing "rusted through in 3 places" rear upper door with a spare that I was given with the truck Handy!

I was told by someone who drives a truck which has part of the name M_X_Y! that it was a half hour job. Maybe for a trained professional so here's my account of what I did, what I learnt and the end result.

Rear door swap out Goals / Plan / Method :

Goal : Swap out whole door but migrate all existing custom parts incl lock, wiper and glass safely (alone in the cold outside using very basic hand tools )

Plan : Unbolt old door, put it next to new door, take photos of key areas to aid re-assembly, remove all parts, put them in the new door, re-bolt back on..

Method and learning :
The door came off easily bolt wise. It would definitely be very very useful to have a helper who can hold the door so you don't have to work like an octopus when it comes loose. I removed the side bolts first so it was eventually hanging / propped up on a box by 2 of the top bolts, one on each side.
Got them outside and ready to disassemble. Enter first issue : RUST.
I'm no stranger to working wit hrusty bolts, but this was ridiculous. The bolts on the inside were mint condition, but anything poking through the door no longer resembled it's original state. Be gentle..
Note *** Take more photos than I did from multiple angles inside and out the door. I took 12 and it still had me guessing on parts of the lock..
I got everything out bar the wiper sheeth (explain later)
Big thank you to Karl for his tips on how to remove the glass and more importantly, how to put it back in!! Oh and Chris for general tips but he was busy playing with his new tools
The tricky parts were getting the glass out. This was simply because it's not just popped in, it's glued in.. Run a screw driver around the edges carefully but with enough force to break through the glue. If you miss spots, it's very difficult to get it out.
Tips :
If your new door has any rust signs, paint it before you start the job using Kurust or something similar. It really helps if you get it all done properly so you're not working with paint moving around in the door at re-assembly time. This is also critical for prolonging the new door's lifespan (as I really don't feel like doing this again!). Paint the parts you can see. Allow to dry. Then turn it upside down and you'll find a bunch of spots you didn't see before! Least I did
The Windscreen wiper part that sticks through the door slides out so just pull it once you've gotten the blade off. It doesn't screw out.
The lock is delicate so treat it with care. It pushes out easily once the nut on the side of it is removed AND the metal slide in spring mount. Pull the tab and it should slide down, freeing up the lock. No need to push and pull or use screwdrivers on the outside which was I thought I might have to do.
The locking mechanism has different colour coded, parts of differing thicknesses - take note of these
The windscreen wiper arm comes off ok. Mine was covered in rust dust as there are magnets inside it, brush it off once it's out.
Re-assembly was relatively smooth but it was freezing cold by this time and my hands were numb. That didn't help!
I started with the lock as it's the trickiest part, then the windscreen wiper and then the bolt on bits

Once it is reassembled, get help putting it back on. It's simple if you have someone holding it. I used boxes which worked but is risky as it might fall and render all the work useless I had my missus help but at 5"2, she did a valient job but I resorted to boxes in the end

One thing ot note is that the bolts need to be straight / put it on and then straighten it. Mine was protruding slightly on the right side after the first go.

That's it.

3 outstanding items that I'd appreciate ideas on are :
1) You'll see a bolt in pictures 4,5,6 which is a 27 socket nut on the outside that holds on the "wiper sheeth" that it sticks through. Try as I did I can't get it out. Anyone now if Toyota sells this as a part? I will call but they always ask for a part number and are pretty unhelpful if you don't have one This would be a lot easier than wrenching it out. It's REALLY stuck on there. Rust.

2) The water pipes are connected up correctly but when I press the wiper arm to spray water, it sprays out the side of the truck?! A little did come through the jet but it looks like it's getting lost somewhere in the roof Any ideas or is it "remove door surround panels and then look inside the roof lining?" I've not been in there before and would prefer to not tear anything if I can avoid it. It's a bit frail..

3) The lock has a type of horse shoe slide on ring on the end of it that holds on one of the arms joined to the locking mechanism. This is to enable the key to turn and open the lock. The end of mine is worn off and I can't get the circular washer on the end of it securely given that it has force applied to it when the key is turned. Any ideas?

And finally, some pictures..

Where I work

An example of a close up - good but only from 1 angle.. Take multi angles

The 27 socket and corresponding inside (with bent arm piece but it'll bend back. Again, plan A is to just put a new one in. Hope they are £1 not £50!)

Shiny NO RUST left hand side

Shiny NO RUST right hand side

 

[Gary Stockton]

Check ToyoDIY.com for the part numbers!
Cheers

 

[Matt Wright]

Check ToyoDIY.com for the part numbers!
Cheers

Thanks Gary Will do (this time armed with VIN number)

PS - my post was for the less skilled of us! Not the Oracles

 

[Gav Peter]

How long did you say you were at this 'bit-of-a-job' fella??

 

[Matt Wright]

How long did you say you were at this 'bit-of-a-job' fella??

You!!! Took me over 4 hours!!!
But I am challenged in the ways of mechanics. Ask Chris.

 

[Andrew Prince]

Looks like a fiddly job, especially with the rust complicating things! I had a look on Toyodiy and I suspect the part you're after is conveniently called "Std Part" so quite difficult to choose which one And the diagram is quite complicated.
Can you not scavenge a whole "new" mechanism from a breaker? I can't imagine there's much demand for the mechanism - presumably Gav has one for his replacement door?

 

[Matt Wright]

Looks like a fiddly job, especially with the rust complicating things! I had a look on Toyodiy and I suspect the part you're after is conveniently called "Std Part" so quite difficult to choose which one And the diagram is quite complicated.
Can you not scavenge a whole "new" mechanism from a breaker? I can't imagine there's much demand for the mechanism - presumably Gav has one for his replacement door?

I know your'e right - and a new part or one from a breaker would be best. It's just such a silly little thing. The wiper works fine! Just that water can get in I might have better go at it aka cut right through the door till I can cut it out and then put it in a vice. It was too cold and dark when I called it a night! Thanks A

 

[Gav Peter]

My half hour job was just to switch door for door dude

There will probably be parts left over when Muxley's is switched around as the new door is complete with all the bits & bobs on it - I'll keep you in mind hombre

 

[frank rabbets]

I was lucky with my 1995/80. I stripped out the top door to paint it and found zero rust although it has never been kept under cover. Everything unscrewed like it was new. I keep thinking that the later ones have better steel.

Frank

 

[Matt Wright]

I was lucky with my 1995/80. I stripped out the top door to paint it and found zero rust although it has never been kept under cover. Everything unscrewed like it was new. I keep thinking that the later ones have better steel.

Frank

Very glad you had no rust Frank! You mentioned that you painted the door - I have a spare passenger front wing which I want to swap over but it needs to be painted ruby red. If I paint it using "Halfords car spray paint" and fix it on, do you think it would look the same as the other panels?
And do you reckon it's a relatively easy job / or an absolute finicky nightmare!
Thanks for your insight

 

[Andrew Prince]

If I paint it using "Halfords car spray paint" and fix it on, do you think it would look the same as the other panels?
And do you reckon it's a relatively easy job / or an absolute finicky nightmare!

Ok, I'll bite - you are not being serious???

Spraying is easy - making it look better than a bad graffiti job is challenging but that might just be me
My guess is even a pro with the right paint would want to spray part of the neighbouring panels to blend the new colour in. The old panels will be faded etc so at best a newly painted panel would stick out as being a different shade. A badly painted one would look like.....

 

[Ben]

Matt id be amazed if you could get the wing to match the rest of the car using a rattle tin of paint from halfrauds!

youd be best getting a local bodyshop to spray it for you. half a litre of 2 pack paint wouldnt cost much.

if you then fit the wing you might need to T-cut and polish the surrounding panels to get the new shiny, unfaded paint to blend in.

 

[Matt Wright]

Thanks guys. I know the easy solution but that's too much effort for what the difference will be. The white wing's days are numbered.
Its more the lacquer I was interested in.. That's what the problem is not the paint
Btw, the halfords paint is a proper match. I used the Toyota silver to touch up my other truck

 

[frank rabbets]

My friend painted the tailgate. I used to paint Aston and Ferrari by hand in the 70's 80's but there are so many power tools now, which I do not have. Also my arms are worn out.

Paintwork quality is a bit like asking how long a piece of string is. If you are as fussy as me Halfords would not be any good. However if you do it yourself rub it well down and degrease it. Use a can of acid etch primer from a paint shop. Then go as you please. I assume you can buy surfacer [the next coat in cans]. Use 800 paper to take the bits off the dried paint. Then the gloss. If it comes as a matt finish you will need lacquer on top. I suspect a can finish may be gloss already.

DONT paint in damp or cold environment. As solvents evaporate they cool the panel and then this atracts water which condenses as mist on the panel. Also the panel dries slowly which leeds to runs and too many dust bits sticking. When I do a bit of painting I wait till a hot sunnshiny day then support the panel vertically to stop bits getting on. When the panel is warm I then spray.

Little bits of dust on any coat can be got off with 1000 grade and if this is gloss or lacquer it can be polished up later with brasso to a complete finish.

I have painted cars to absolute perfection but it is very long and stressful. Also heartbreaking when something goes wrong.

When you start, do a small area about 2inches square to make sure paints are compatible; especially the old paint on the car. Possible melting and bubbling is thus kept to one test area.

All the best
frank

 

[frank rabbets]

P.S. Every time you paint do the edges first, with the spray at a right angles to the main panel area. Often overlooked and where rust and miss-match paint can be a problem.

Frank

 

[adrianr]

Thanks for sharing that frank - always wondered how to spray correctly!

 

[Matt Wright]

Yes thanks a lot Frank. Very useful
I have repaired the wrist and neck seals on drysuits and boy was that a steep learning curve! And also one that you absolutely cannot afford to get wrong! 6 degree C water in your suit is not pleasant..

I've decided that my wing is just fine the way it is though! I have plenty other jobs to get to before cosmetics