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Rebuild of 2004 1HD FTE 78 Series Troopy for overlanding

Well my Kronos is being fitted this weekend! (Finally, it was scheduled for September last year!) So just revisiting your pictures. Unfortunately they messed up on the supply of the awning brackets so I’ll have to source or have made locally. Would you have any pics of the awning and the shower cube brackets please so I have a better idea of how they mount to the roof and to the awning. Thanks.
 
No problem - I will take some pics and send to you

Parabolics are rated at +500kg constant weight and 50mm lift.
Front coils are +100kg and are adjustable for up to 75mm lift (only additional weight on the front is the ARB Bar and Warn 12000lb winch)

Which 270deg awning are you using because the brackets are different for QuickPitch and AluCab.
My Awning and En suite Shower cubicle are both QuickPitch
 
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Thanks. my awning is Darche. my springs are the same ratings as yours, +100front and 500-700 rear.
 
UPDATE:

Not mentioned earlier, whilst in the shop for the abovementioned add-ons, I asked the shop to check out why the HD clutch installed by the previous owner was shuddering so violently in reverse gear.

What they discovered.... Turns out this shuddering is a common issue with these type of HD clutch plates that have buttons of sintered type of friction material on one side and normal friction material on their opposite side, to the point that this has caused uneven high spots on the flywheel and clutch plate.
Remedy- the flywheel has been sent away for skimming and all components are now being replaced, an Exedy (normal type friction material) HD clutch plate & pressure plate, thrust bearing, spigot bearing and the rear crank seal is being replaced for good measure.
 
UPDATE:

Got "The Lorry" back from the shop yesterday.
Work performed...
1. 5000km Oil and filter change
2. Remove original brake vacuum booster and replace with dual diaphragm brake vacuum booster.
3. Perform complete front and rear differential overhauls, new carrier bearings, new pinion bearings, new oil seal and set crownwheel and pinion wear pattern and backlash.
4. Install Harrop E-Lockers in both front and rear differentials
5. Replace existing clutch with Safari Heavy duty clutch plate, pressure plate, thrust bearing, spigot bearing and rear crank oil seal. Skim and Dynamically balance flywheel together with pressure and clutch plate.
6. Do some electrickery work that required attention.

None of this work was required as a result of performance or breakdown requirements, but rather as a result of things / improvements that I wanted to do to improve the overall reliability and drivability of The Lorry. With the following exceptions; a] the existing clutch was shuddering violently due to having developed high spots on flywheel. b} evidence of past water ingestion into diffs was evident from some diff components showing rust residue.

New driving impressions;
as a result of the dynamic balancing of the clutch components and flywheel the driving experience is now really noticeably super smooth and the difference for the better is almost unbelievable.
and,,,,, for all you 70 series drivers, a recommendation, one of the best improvements you will do for the safety of you and your trucks, is to upgrade the brakes, even if you do only the dual diaphragm vacuum booster and stainless steel braided hoses, but what I have done over the past year was the full Monty - Powerbrake front disk rotors and pads, TT heavy duty rear disk rotors and pads, stainless steel braided brake hoses, dual diaphragm vacuum booster
The improvement in braking performance is absolutely exceptional.

Now - the new remote reservoir DCS suspension is being fitted on Monday - feedback on this to follow.
 
Had the DCS remote reservoir 20way adjustable shocks and front coils fitted
Currently set on 5 clicks up from softest and this feels a bit softer than what the old fitted Ironman FoamCell Pro felt.

I will give a full report on their performance once Ive had the opportunity to take them on some dirt tracks.

Front
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Rear
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Looks the business, but the remote reservoir does look quite expose to me - maybe possible to position them higher up into the chassis area? Just a thought... Be interested to hear how you get on with them :)
 
I am sure your brake works produced good results. But I have never had issues with brakes on the 78, unlike the 80 where they start to fade on long downhill runs and sometimes feel a little weak given weight of a loaded truck.
Were your 78 brakes a concern before your works? Cheers
 
Before all the brake upgrades the brakes always felt “wooden” and required significant foot pressure just to obtain any kind of stopping power, and emergency braking left a lot to be desired. I don’t believe they applied enough pressure that would ultimately result in fading
 
<<UPDATE>>

During our recent trip to Mabuasehube [Trans Kgalagadi Nat Park] and CKGR [Central Kalahari Game Reserve] one of my travel buddies had a few issues with his 12V Electrical system on his Troopy.

We had to remove his front seat to gain access to test, fault~find and work on the system, this prompted a complete rethink on my behalf.
At the time of building my Troopy I thought it would be a good idea to position all of the 12V system inside the unused space in the body panel sidewall behind the drivers front seat. At the time I thought "brilliant" out of the way and doesnt take up any panel or drawer space, which is (was) perfect cos to date the system has worked 110%, but "What If??" it gives trouble and needs to be worked on, it then becomes near on impossible to gain access to work on the system without removing (a) my tools and spares box and (b) the battery and clothes box, which would be a mammoth task.

School fees ! ! ! ! Time to move the electrickery system and place for easier access - if needed, but where??

Now - I cant wait for the Troopy Trip that we have planned for early in May - 5 x Troopys Tripping - Namakwa 4x4 eco trail Orange River ZA

This is the electrickery panel mounted in the body panel sidewall behind drivers front seat.
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With some jiggling, juggling and lowering, we managed to re-mount all of the electrickery panel and inverter to the front panel of the battery box (that houses the 218AH Lith Ion Batt) directly behind the drivers seat, without jeopardizing seat driving position. Now if ever the need arrises to work on the system, its just a matter of sliding seat forwards and tilting the seat backrest forwards as well.
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