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Replacement of standard battery set-up (100 Series)

thelostscott

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Apr 19, 2012
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new_zealand
Hi all,

I need of recommendations for suppliers and battery types to replace the batteries in a standard engine bay set-up in my '98 100 series.

Knowledge in this area is limited so not really sure what to look out for.

Apologies for the vagueness and thanks in advance.
 
You need a pair of batteries with something like 249 and a 250 with opposite posts, I would say the biggest battery that fits, largest capacity and the most you can afford
I fitted a pair of Yuasa battery's a few years ago and they have been great
 
What Steve said.
If it's a standard HDJ100 with 2 batteries in parallell connection, they work as one unit, and it is important that the two are as equal as possible. Several manufacturers have matched pairs with opposite terminal locations, with a capacity of around 65 to 105 Ah. 90 to 95 Ah with a CCA of about 800 is standard.
 
Looks good both of them. Haven't tried any tho'.
The Yuasa ones are calcium, which normally last a bit longer. They also require a slightly higher charge voltage to get to 100 %. I have my second pair of calcium now, and they do seem to keep a bit longer than the standard lead type. I have a charger mounted in the car, with a plug in the bumper, and plug into mains frequently, at least during the winter. The 1HD/FT/FTE is particularly hard on the batteries with the heating grid in the intake. If you disconnect it, the batteries last a couple of years longer. (As does the alternator)
 
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Looks good both of them. Haven't tried any tho'.
The Yuasa ones are calcium, which normally last a bit longer. They also require a slightly higher charge voltage to get to 100 %. I have my second pair of calcium now, and they do seem to keep a bit longer than the standard lead type. I have a charger mounted in the car, with a plug in the bumper, and plug into mains frequently, at least during the winter. The 1HD/FT/FTE is particularly hard on the batteries with the heating grid in the intake. If you disconnect it, the batteries last a couple of years longer. (As does the alternator)
@uHu what is the down side to disconnecting the heating grid?
 
There is no down side to disconnecting, at least not in temperatures warmer than minus 30 C.
It is supposed to give lower emissions during the first minute or so after starting a cold engine. That's it.
 
Ive just bought a pair of Yuasa batteries from eBay. Matched pair YBX5334 and YBX5335 for £148 including delivery. They're the silver ones with a five year guarantee. They're 95AH and bloody heavy.
 
There is no down side to disconnecting, at least not in temperatures warmer than minus 30 C.
It is supposed to give lower emissions during the first minute or so after starting a cold engine. That's it.
I thought the heater grid was a type of replacement for glow plugs that the 100 doesn't have, any problems on freezing cold mornings in starting the engine ??
 
Never. Not needed.
There are two types of diesel engines traditionally: Those with indirect ignition and a glow plug, and those with direct ignition without a glow plug. The ones with glow plugs need the plugs to be glowing for combustion to start. After starting, the combustion will keep them glowing.
The direct ignition type (e.g. 1HD-FTE) always starts easily, whatever the temperature. It is normal to give a bit more fuel for starting at freezing temperatures, and that was done manually with a lever or something in the olden days (like on a 1960s Volvo bus). The heater grid is an environmental implement.
 
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Never. Not needed.
There are two types of diesel engines traditionally: Those with indirect ignition and a glow plug, and those with direct ignition without a glow plug. The ones with glow plugs need the plugs to be glowing for combustion to start. After starting the combustion will keep them glowing.
The direct ignition type (e.g. 1HD-FTE) always starts easily, whatever the temperature. It is normal to give a bit more fuel for starting at freezing temperatures, and that was done manually with a lever or something in the olden days (like on a 1960s Volvo bus). The heater grid is an environmental implement.
Thanks UHU for the info, thats another piece of tech i can put in the bin.. must improve the airflow as well..
 
Why not walk into a Toyota dealership and just buy there? They sell or spec:))) and are, atleast in the UK, very competitive price wise.
 
Thanks UHU for the info, thats another piece of tech i can put in the bin.. must improve the airflow as well..
Hi UHU, Ive removed the 8mm power cable from the heater grid and all is well as you advised, i now want to remove the cable from the battery but I've found what looks like a solenoid just behind the air filter where the cable from the grid terminates on a 6mm threaded post and then there is another cable running from another post on the solenoid to the battery. There are two small wires that also go into the solenoid. Is it ok to remove the solenoid and leave the two small wires unplugged i assume they are what switch the solenoid ? i will of course remove the cable going to the battery..

Many thanks
Graham..
 
I think that would be OK. I have only pulled the small plug for the control of the solenoid, and left the rest in place. Haven't had any problems with it for years now.
 
Hi UHU, Ive removed the 8mm power cable from the heater grid and all is well as you advised, i now want to remove the cable from the battery but I've found what looks like a solenoid just behind the air filter where the cable from the grid terminates on a 6mm threaded post and then there is another cable running from another post on the solenoid to the battery. There are two small wires that also go into the solenoid. Is it ok to remove the solenoid and leave the two small wires unplugged i assume they are what switch the solenoid ? i will of course remove the cable going to the battery..

Many thanks
Graham..
Can you post a pic of what you unplugged and plan to do?
 
Can you post a pic of what you unplugged and plan to do?
Hi, Im not changing the battery set up but removing the power supply for the heater grid in the inlet system which as UHU states and i agree, serves no useful purpose on the 1HD-FTE. The solenoid is located just behind the air filter housing it has 2 x 8mm (approx) cables and 1 x small plug with 2 wires. The plan is to get rid of the heater grid to increase air flow and save the batteries. Then get rid of the EGR system and clean out the inlet manifold and associated pipework and install a Provent 200 Catch Tank to stop any oil from the engine breather getting into the inlet and intercooler. Ive had the heater grid disconnected for a while now and have just removed the solenoid with no issues.
 
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