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Romania, Retizat Mountains and the Transalpina

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clivehorridge

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Day 1 - Thursday 15 August 2013

Thursday was Saint Mary’s Day andrather surprisingly to me, the Romanian Government declared it a National Holiday. We’ve had a heat-wave for the last 10 or so weeks with temperatures upto 38 and 40 degrees C and we though it a good idea to get out of the City and to change our routine of going to the house up-country every weekend. So, a colleague friend of mine Florin and his wife Adina & 2 kids Alexandra & Andrei (in a Skoda Octavia) and me with my wife Aura & 1 kid Ana (in the mighty 80) decided to take Friday as leave and make a long weekend of it.Florin wanted to go to the Retizat Mountains and I wanted to drive the length of the Transalpina. Strange thing, I don’t remember either of us asking our wives where they wanted to go, so we did both. Before we left, my wife Aura did, in passing, say that if we were going in that direction, she would like to see the Monastery “Manastirea Prislop” not too farfrom Hateg. She's quite religious and takes any opportunity to visit places of importance to the Romanian Orthodox religion.

This was no epic trip by any means, but we enjoyed the break. Apologies in advance for some of the photos, I stuck with my iPhone and iPad but Florin had his DSLR, see if you can spot the differences!
We set off from Bucharest at 08:00 on Thursday morning and we were soon out onto the A1 Motorway and passing Pitesti, on to the DN7 (E81) and on our way to Ramnica Valcea. Then we headed North to a village called Brezoi, where we turned left onto the DN7a. What a great road this was, twisting and winding with hairpin turns, steep climbs and all of it through mountain forests.

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We passed streams and lakes (Lacul Malaia) and we had a couple of stops on the way.

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Eventually wearrived at Lacul Vidra and had an opportunity to stretch our legs.
Joy of joys, it was raining! How fantastic after the drought and temperatures that we’ve had! The smell of fresh wet grass and pine trees was almost overwhelming. Like most lakes in the area, its a Hydro-Electric man-made reservoir.

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We then pressed on and over the County Border into Hunedoara and onwards to the town of Petrosani. Here we turned left onto the DN66 (E79) and soon, left again, onto the DN66a, passing through the mining towns of Aninoasa, Vulcan, Lupeni and Uricani.
How depressing these places are.The fall of communism 24 years ago, now showing the decline that sets in when the free market economy is left in free-fall. Empty blocks, worst still half-empty blocks where the empty apartments had been robbed of fixtures to keep the remaining inhabited apartments running, as there’s no money for maintenance. The mines are all but shut down now and the depressing sight of dereliction, abandoned buildings, rusted mineshaft winding houses and poverty, was everywhere. After passing Uricani, we were back into nature and within a few kilometres we passed Valea de Pesti (reservoir) and Campul lui Neag (a man-made almost circular lake) and on to avery "missable" right turn onto a stone track, which after a few kilometres took us to our destination “Complex Turistic Cabana Cheile Butii”.

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Some bikers had arrived at about the same time as us... brave guys, it's a long ride from the Czec Republic. Took some pics of their bikes.

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We’d covered about 400 kilometers and we were a little weary, but we were on holiday and the bar was open! A few beers later, it had gone dark and we were all sleeping!

Day 2 - Friday 16 August 2013

We were up for breakfast bright and early, studying the maps. Florin had a "good" idea. “Let’s go to Lacul Bucura, it’s a glacial lake at 2,000m and not far from here”.“Mmmm” we thought, “not far, how far is not far?” As the crow flies, it was about 40 km. That’s not bad. Trouble was there were no roads. Not even 4 x 4 roads/tracks, nothing. To get even close to Lacul Bucura, it was a 114km drive in almost a full circle and the road ends about 2 hours walk/hike/climb from the lake. We decided that after driving 114km, the last thing we needed was a 2 hour walk/hike/climb, especially with an 8, a 5 and a 3 year old, gaggle of kids to carry and bully for 2 hours there and 2 hours back, then the 114km drive back “home”.

We didn’t go to Lacul Bucura.

Instead we took a gentle drive and a relaxing walk along the banks of the “Valea de Pesti” reservoir and along the ridge of the dam, which was holding back some 4.3 million cubic metres of fresh mountain water.

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We then ventured back to the mining town of Lupeni and found a road which took us up to Straja, a (very small) ski resort where we had fun driving up the ski slopes. Florin stuck to the black stuff and I played in the dirt, great fun!

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We got to the top and inevitably came back down, stopping on the way at a cute wooden church high on the hill. It was surrounded by a fence and we noticed a surface “tunnel” leading to it, quite obviously the only way into the church grounds. The tunnel doesn't look much (on the left from the roadside)...

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...but when we entered we had quite a surprise.

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Each of the panels represented a month of the year and the paintings were of all the Saints who aquired their Sainthood in that particular month...

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The church dates back about 500 years and is all timber, no metal screws, nails or brackets, all joints and wooden dowels holding it together.

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Typically, the belfry was a separate structure

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Everything wooden, loads of fantastic carving...

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Then we took the DN66 towards Hateg. At a place called Banita, we got stuck for 15 minutes at some road-works and I couldn’t resist taking a photo of this horse and cart. Its owner was in the bar and the horse was so bored standing by the side of the road!

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We visited “Manastirea Prislop” so my wife was happy!

Then we popped by Hunedoara Castle, which is very photogenic.

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Other "castles" on the way... I think this one's for sale if anyone's interested!

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More to come, I've got to get some sleep now!

...
 
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FYI your top 15 pictures are not showing. It says invalid link.
 
FYI your top 15 pictures are not showing. It says invalid link.

Thanks Warren.

How frustrating! I spent a long time setting this up and when I checked the thread after I'd finished for the night, I found the error message. When I went into "edit" to see what needed doing, all the pictures were visible!

I sent a note to Cris, but it's a lot of work to do over again and when I tried to re-upload the photos a message told me I didn't have permission to edit, even though I put a reason for edit in the appropriate box.

I'll work on it, but I'm only half way through the thread and it hardly seems worth doing it over again.

Need to brew up some stamina and some more spare time! :cry:
 
the other photos looked great
i like the castle and the tunnel to the church

good to see the ski slopes too
 
the other photos looked great
i like the castle and the tunnel to the church

good to see the ski slopes too

Cheers Andy, some folks get funny with pictures of churches! I thought you'd like the ski slope trip, I can't resist them now!

I'll work on the edit, but the site's not giving me editing permission now for some reason. :?
 
Nice story Clive, I look forward to seeing the other pictures, BTW how much do they want for the castle? :think:
 
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Nice story Clive, I look forward to seeing the other pictures, BTW how much do they want for the castle? :think:

Hi Chas,

1 million Euro for one, or you can have 3 for the price of 2 on Thursdays... :lol:

Dunno is the answer, but there are some property websites here advertising them. A few have gone to small groups of investors (small time stuff like 3 or 4 friends putting money together) to open them as hotels or conference centers.

Interesting stuff, but some need a lot of work doing and anything property is a bit risky at the moment. If you're really interested, I'll try to get some proper info for you. If it was more than a casual question, PM me.

Cheers :icon-biggrin:
 
Nah! the piggy bank's nearly empty, the thought of living in a castle is appealing though.
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Interesting trip Clive. Romania is on my list of places I would like to visit - and soon before it changes completely.
 
How frustrating! I spent a long time setting this up and when I checked the thread after I'd finished for the night, I found the error message. When I went into "edit" to see what needed doing, all the pictures were visible!

Clive I feel for you.

I had a similar experience when I first put up a blog and after 4 days of writing and photos, I lost the lot. So I went and set up a Wordpress Blog. Yes I have to pay for it and all of the bolt-ons also have to paid for, but at least now it saves every page addition and I can reference changes made, edit, upload, and do all the stuff thats needed without the fear of losing days of effort.

This site does now auto save as you type, so maybe its solved that problem. It's still not a good site for blogging though IMHO.

Keep it coming, great effort and a good read.
 
Clive I feel for you.

I had a similar experience when I first put up a blog and after 4 days of writing and photos, I lost the lot. So I went and set up a Wordpress Blog. Yes I have to pay for it and all of the bolt-ons also have to paid for, but at least now it saves every page addition and I can reference changes made, edit, upload, and do all the stuff thats needed without the fear of losing days of effort.

This site does now auto save as you type, so maybe its solved that problem. It's still not a good site for blogging though IMHO.

Keep it coming, great effort and a good read.

Thanks Lazz for your encouragement! I thought it was a bit lame after spending so much time reading Ben's trip reports, Reinhard's epic trip to the North Pole (well quite close to it) and all the other African and Moroccan desert and bush stories.

But if its being well received, I'll press on. Cris has just kindly replied to my "HELP" PM, so I'm hoping to have another go at it soon.

Cheers mate, and thanks for the tips.
 
That's it Clive stiff upper lip and all that, remember you're British, Carry on up the Transalpina. :thumbup:
 
That's it Clive stiff upper lip and all that, remember you're British, Carry on up the Transalpina. :thumbup:

Will do Chas, 'ol boy, look 'em in the eye, I say, and never say die!

If Cris can get me permission to edit my own thread :wtf:, then I'll be back in business!

Cheers matey, watch this space...
 
Interesting trip Clive. Romania is on my list of places I would like to visit - and soon before it changes completely.

Well of course it's changing, but it's not so fast at it. The countryside and the country life will be with us for a long time yet before any sort of prosperity gets a grip outside of the cities.

Country folk live off what they grow or farm. Every house has a cow, so they have fresh milk for cheese and butter. They also have a pig and some chickens, so there's no shortage of eggs and at Christmas the pig gets the sharp end and there's a big feast. A full size pig will feed a family for a long time. The meat is salted, smoked, boiled, pickled, roasted, any way you can imagine to make it keep and last longer. Of course even country folks have fridges and freezers so that helps keep the pig meat that little bit longer.

There's not much money in the country because they don't need too much of it. There's lots of barter and home grown, so a purse full of money to go to Tescos is not necessary. They just don't go to Tescos!

So I think you have plenty of time Reinhard.

cheers
 
Well folks, it seems that Chris is beaten as to why my photos in this thread are missing. Although he's tried hard, he can't help me with gaining permission to replace them so the thread is now officially closed.

I'll recreate it (when I can find a couple of hours to devote to it) so bear with me for a week or so and you should see it resurrected. I just hope you all think it worth it! :icon-biggrin:

Thanks for your comments so far!
 
That's awful annoying about the pictures Clive! That's one of those 'computer' and 'out the window' moments all right!!

Really would love to see the rest of the pictures! I drove a very similar route, I actually have a few pictures of that 'castle for sale' on the way into the national park too, it has a 'second hand shop' in one of its outbuildings!! Bit of a sad place though,seemingly it was an orphanage before it became a restaurant. Cetata Colti I think is how you spell it, is near the start of the park and is well worth the steep climb up, its like a fairy tale ruin in the forest with savage views too.
 
Again Yogi, thanks for the encouragement. I'm glad you've been there, because its impossible to describe the area to someone who hasn't. Even photos don't show the "real" nature of the place. I like the word you used, savage! It's precisely what it is! There's also an "atmosphere" that I imagine many tourists miss entirely.

Agreed that these buildings are a long way from "desirable". People have a go at making something of them, but the bottom line is always available cash, and there's never enough of that.

It's more profitable to find a piece of land and build something new on it. Sad really, the real history ends up as a pile of rubble.
 
You live in a beautiful part of the world with great landscapes, history and culture. It is the very things you mention - the 'savage' and wild nature and landscapes - that attract me to places. And it is for these reasons that I would like to visit Romania at some point. So looking forward to the report.

If its any help, I had problems uploading the Norway photos and ended up switching to Firefox - but I don't think I had the same problem as you. Also, for long posts, I write up in word and then copy and paste into the forum.
 
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When you moved to Firefox did you disable IE10 Reinhard , i'm inclined to think IE10 is the route of most problems so i didn't want it running in the background at all .
 
Looks like a nice trip Clive. Love the castle. :thumbup:

I've lost hours of work on a few occasions now when updating my blog. :thumbdown:
 
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