Rust

[Dave_S]

I'm still a bit iffy about the lack of prep with Krown, I genuinely struggle to understand how any treatment works if the vehicle hasn't been thoroughly cleaned first (as an absolute minimum). The idea that you can roll up and they treat it there-and-then in less than a day seems questionable at best....

 

[karl2000]

Im not confident of being able to get full coverage in there with painting.

I used this, but I think it was a bit cheaper back then. Coverage is great, I checked it with a camera in the rails afterwards!

Eastwood Internal Frame / Chassis Coating

Eastwood Black Internal Frame / Chassis Coating with Spray Nozzle from Frost.co.uk - The Specialist of High Quality Tools & Equipment for the Classic Vehicle Restorer

www.frost.co.uk

 

[Ben Stratford]

I used this, but I think it was a bit cheaper back then. Coverage is great, I checked it with a camera in the rails afterwards!

Eastwood Internal Frame / Chassis Coating

Eastwood Black Internal Frame / Chassis Coating with Spray Nozzle from Frost.co.uk - The Specialist of High Quality Tools & Equipment for the Classic Vehicle Restorer

www.frost.co.uk

Fantastic thanks Karl

 

[Tractionman]

Great tip of yours too Karl, coloured tape over every hole in the chassis, then open up wherever you need to put the nozzle and move on. Remove all the tape when finished.
That way it ALL goes inside the chassis and doesn't blast out where you don't want it, i.e your own body. I'm still finding odd bits of green tape in odd places !

 

[Tractionman]

No, - not there Karl.

 

[Ben Stratford]

Has anyone had experience with a sandblaster, would it be good to prep prior to painting?

 

[Tractionman]

Was originally going to do mine that way, but had the wrong size beads and nozzle.
On reflection, it was just as well as wiring, pipes/hoses etc would need suitably protecting.

 

[Shayne]

I'm still a bit iffy about the lack of prep with Krown, I genuinely struggle to understand how any treatment works if the vehicle hasn't been thoroughly cleaned first (as an absolute minimum). The idea that you can roll up and they treat it there-and-then in less than a day seems questionable at best....

Its basically penetrating oil .

WD40 is great for cleaning because it penetrates through oil , mud , water and whatever . Clean up a rusty old spanner and leave it in the garden overnight it will be rusty again in the morning - but not if you spray it with wd40 .

Sunken steel ships submersed in salt water 100 years or more haven't yet rusted away because the process of rust needs water and air .

Krown is a film not a finish , nothing can get under Krown and because its not a finish and you can just spray it again next year .

Paint is a film and a finish so tougher more resilient and longer lasting , but good prep is essential because paint doesn't penetrate so any place it doesn't grip the surface firmly it will trap water and air encouraging and hiding rust .

I had my 80 Krown treated because i knew it would be some time before i was ready to go at things with a wire brush . I didn't expect maybe 4 years and still waiting so i'd imagine most of the Krown is gone from underneath even if i know its still inside the doors and whatnot .

I wouldn't use a sandblaster under the truck because the grit will find its way into bearing and seals and any place you definitely don't want it , i have wondered about soda blasting though and i read about a new process that uses ice as blast media .

 

[Buller]

How much did they charge if you don't mind me asking. I'm looking to get a proper job done under my 90.
Or I was thinking of buying a few cans on Krown treatment and having a go myself.