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Rustproofing, updating methods and products.

:blush: We buy jet washers, now it seems we have buy that crane for washing:smile:. I will definitely update my pics before n after and experience with them. I had my experience with mixing tyres 3:1 and its in that thread. Hopefully no one after me will do 3:1 mix for tyres
 
I cant imagine how I would live with Land Cruiser without this forum. At this price point I thought I would get a car in which I can just add fuel n drive. I have to learn a lot.

Today had bit more time and read through all the messages on rust proofing from yesterday.

As Dave mentioned and Juddian asked I dont know if before n after is cleaning the rust, painting the surface, or what they are doing in one day. I saw the website, saw some testimonials on there n booked. On Landyzone forum there is lots of negative info on this company and looks like its also banned once for bad responses. I will call him on monday and ask all the details.
 
Raj, if you do decide to go elsewhere give Krown in Dudley a ring. Lots of endorsements if you search the archives and Rob is likely to give you a good price if you mention this forum.
 
Blimey, just following some of the discussion on Disco 3 forum re the rustproofing people Raj is booked with, doesn't make good reading or viewing the large and obviously already rusty places not treated in some pics posted there... mind you covering existing rust in semi hardening films isn't the last word in rustproofing in my opinion.

Raj mate, preparation is everything, unless you remove and treat the rust itself its no good at all covering it with similar treatments, all that does is covers up further deterioration and once water/salt get under the coating it can do its worst unseen till it eventually flakes off and the true horror is revealed.

There is an alternative, well several actually as this and other forums discuss, either someone needs to get to work on the rust then treat/paint/coat or you remove the loose rust and cover the whole chassis inside and out (plus exposed body areas such as inner sills) in oils or grease or one of the oil based products mentioned on this very forum, in some ways this latter method has its merits because you take steps to clean the undersides and recoat it every year, if you don't want to do this yourself it's something that can usually be done quite cheaply locally.
Look under any vehicle that has severe oil leaks, where that oil lands no rust forms, but oil/grease/similar is not a fit and forget method, it needs preferably annual recoats...the down side to oil/grease is that dust and muck sticks to it.

That motor of yours is a beaut, i'd want it cleaning off first of all (local commercial lorry garage should be able to handle that easily, but you'd be surprised what a good underbody hosing down will shift after you've driven in the rain for a day or two), then my suggestion would be to get the sort of job done on it that Dave_S is having done, stage by stage rust removal treatment paint then final coating.
With your Cruiser its only really the chassis various suspension parts rear axle and fuel tank protector that are rusting and none of them that bad, yet...to me it would be a crime to just cover that rust allowing it to get ever worse, it wants dealing with properly in my humble.

Hope you don't mind the input Raj, don't want to see you spending the thick end of a bag o sand and not getting the best possible job done.
 
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When I got my '80 I decided it needed a really good professional treatment. Opted for Dinitrol mainly because of 5 year guarantee against further corrosion.
Treatment was exceptionally thorough. Full steam clean, followed by scraper and wire brushes before full Dinitrol treatment starting with a rust converter. Took the garage 5 days to do it! Not cheap at £750+VAT but in my view worth it for a professional, guaranteed job
 
Hi Juddian, thank you very much for taking time to read and reply to the post and explaining in detail about the rust process. I cancelled my booking with before n after and asked him to refund deposit. Hopefully he will return. I talked to Krown and asked them if they know anyone near them who can wash, clean all existing rust from underneath prior to applying Krown so Krown will protect clean underbody. He told he dosent have any direct links to anyone but near his garage there are 4x4 specialists so asked me to check if that can be done. If nothing works out, I will keep car in highest suspension setting and clean myself before getting Krown sprayed.
 
Raj, somewhere near you will be a commercial lorry workshops, could be a main dealer but an independent lorry workshops is probably a better bet, usually they have a ramp which lorries can be driven up then the chap steam cleans the undersides for MOT inspection, most ramps will be narrow enough your Cruiser will go up, these chaps do this sort of underbody cleaning work for a living and they'll make short work of cleaning all thart caked mud and salt out.
Have a poke nose about your area and ask about mate, there's always someone up for a bit of extra work, if you let us know your area someone here might know of a suitable workshops or a 4x4 specialist who could clean it up for you underneath.
 
Thank you Juddian, now i got it. I live near reading and found one such place (Britalba). These guys have underbody clean and chasis clean services.
 
I came across this study by department of defence research, which has details of studies they looked into before considering Krown as their preferred method of corrosion protective coating for their vehicles. Interesting read.
 

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I spent several weeks doing under chassis mechanic aerobics, derusting, painting and rust proofing on my 97 80 series during Covid period last summer. Glad to see I only had about 5% rust and mostly all just surface related and some elbow grease resolved that. Happy it should all be good for another few years. Only areas of concern was bubbling on bottom of rear window and very inner deep down inside and rear - both corners (from weeping rear side windows); both of these only temp concern as planning a rear chop with custom camper at some stage.
 
Thelal, thats a big project. I used to do similar to my car exterior and interior like wash one day, clay-polish-wax one pannel at a time. I used to do this 2 times a year until 5 years ago. Then new member came into family n neglected my cars:). Yesterday I took land cruiser to a truck shop for underbody wash. There was literally tons of hard clay mud underneath. They took lot of time and cleared majority of it.
 
Ive seen some stuff about Lanoguard, dont think it would be as good as Krown by a long shot, but looks cheap & easy, has any one any experience of it?
 
Tried a bit of Lanoguard, not that impressed, it's thin and easy to use but would need retreating quite often I think. Corrolan looks like a better bet in the sheepy stuff, haven't tried it yet though.
 
Finally got the Krown rust prevention treatment done. I didn’t remember to take videos of underside after treatment. I took some before treatment as I was only curious to know how bad it’s underneath n what repairs I ve to do.
Robert said he didn’t notice any alarming thing except lots of mud :). I met another customer there getting a 34 year old van treated with Krown. Looking at that good old van I got some inspiration n confidence that land cruiser will last for rest of my life with the maintenance I do. :cool:
 
Ive used lanoguard on my 2015 76 for a couple of years now after the Dinitrol started peeling off the chassis in places.
I use the normal Moto spray to cover bolts and brackets around the engine bay and use the chassis guard with glass from buzzweld everywhere else. I also use the grease to cover more exposed areas and sill lips and seams etc

Pros
Very easy to apply.
Doesn't attack rubber
Good coverage as it's thin.
Only takes about 30mins with a Shultz gun
Keeps your hands soft lol

Cons,
Needs redone more often, I do it annually.
Breaks down in UV so exposed parts are best to be covered in the Moto grease.
Can be sprayed on the exhaust silencers and brackets etc (not cats or manifold)
Smells sheepy but goes away after a few days.

Haven't tried any of the other lanolin based products so can't really comment.

Cheers

Mike
 

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Mike that looks really good. So ideally I should have the underbody that clean to increase longevity of my car.
 
Thanks Raj,

Yeah, certainly helps in this country. I found that caked on mud just encouraged rust. Best to spray all the chassis legs, inside quarter panels and doors, wings. I know 70s like a spot of rust so I'm trying to keep it looking as best as I can.

Cheers

Mike
 
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