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Seal and piston replacement fron brakes.

Crispin

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It's been a long time coming that I have needed to check my brakes. Seal kit arrived from Ian along with 3 pistons (just in case) and a 4th piston from Mr-T.
After fitting alternator, I attacked the driver's side calliper. Easy off and onto bench.
Having seen Tony's not so long ago, I was expecting mine to be worse (hence the 4 spare pistons).

Pop off the seal and ooh, what's that? A cir-clip. Only the revised 120's had the cir-clip to hold the rubber seal in place. Wonder why I have them...
Anyway, off with the clips, seals and out with the pistons. They could have been pulled out by a baby with 2 teeth.
Bar a bit of surface rust, they are fine. Some wire brushing on the calliper to clean that up, some emery paper on the surface rust on the pistons and a good clean, time for new seals.
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LB's air being put to good use. Reinforces my want for an airtank.
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The seal kits come with some red grease but Crispin went and bought a 500g tub of it. To whom shall I leave it when I die? I can't see myself every using that much...
A liberal dose of my pot-o-grease and new seals, same pistons and boots and refit them. All in all, with faffing, about 30-45 minutes. Simples.

Feeling somewhat cocky now I tackle the LHS.


Ohh, that does not look good. Before I had the calliper off I could see the pad had worn skew. Clearly one piston had seized.
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Having a look at the rubber boots, this calliper is of the old design. It, like Tony's, does not have the circlip but rather a ridge that the boot clips over and holds itself in place. I wonder why I have different callipers on each side...

Off with the calliper, chuck away old disks and stare at a rust mass. Hmm, out come the large gas pliers. Piston 1 and 2 turn but no budge backwards or forwards... 3 and 4... I was lifting myself up when pushing down on the gas pliers. No move. Nudda. Zip.
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Tony suggests putting the piston back on the car, jamming the two good ones and pumping the others out. Fine, let's try that. Nudda. They would not budge!

A quick consult with Chris and he suggests hammering it back in. If you can get it to move, then it may move back out.
One of the seized pistons did let go and moved in. It's not been to the Chris J school though as it was quite happy in its new position and refused to come back out.
The other would not budge at all.....

A call to Dave Docwra who has a metal gluing machine in lives not to far from me and I'm off.
After trying some bits, Dave pulls out the glue machine and glues a 25mm square tube to the piston. With a lot of huffing and puffing, it pulls free. Leverage is king aint it?

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He glues the tube to the second piston but this one required more huffing and puffing than the first. Eventually, it pops out. The pistons are badly rusted. Clearly the rubber boot was not doing its job!


Back home with my now empty calliper and my new hammer made for me by Dave, I can clean up and put them back together.

Lots of wire brushing and emery paper to clean up the calliper and bore and an even unhealthier amount of red grease to try protect against water...
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All back together and back in the truck. Will bleed and finish up tomorrow along with CV boot repair :(

Bloody Landrovers....

A big thanks to Chris and bigger thanks to Dave for the time spent gluing the metal together.
Next item on toy list: A metal gluing machine.

Here's the hammer Dave made me while I was waiting:
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To be fair, one of the pistons which was really seized could have been reused. There was only a bit of surface rust above the seal which wiped off with some light sanding.
The two from the otherside, one was ok, the other was baddly pitted. Seeing as I had 4 new ones I just used new. Don't have to worry about them now.
It's taken them 8 years to get to this stage so I'm not going to change the caliper for the new design. When the pads need changing (put new ones on today) I'll take the seals apart and clean / grease etc. if I have to replace in another 10 years, that's fine by me...
 
Bet you're glad that's done ..... did you need to do the other side at all :thumbup:
 
the driver side was simple. very quick. The LHS was the b1tch....
 
Cris i reckon you could of got a little bit more grease on there :lol:

a job well done :thumbup:

Joe
 
Nice going boet - you're getting to know your truck really well which is no bad thing. Glad Mr T saw fit to replace mine for me :lol:
 
Well ive booked mine in for a week friday at my friends garage. I'm having the injector washers/seats/seals replaced, egr valve cleaned and while there i guess i have the break callipers checked out. My cruiser is on 43000 miles, so a couple of questions.

Can the callipers just be removed, cleaned up and greased?
Can i get away with keeping the existing pistons if they are in reasonable condition?
I take it i will defiantly need new rubber seals?
What is the seal kit crispin mentioned and would i be better just getting it? where is the best place to get it? what is the cost? are there any part numbers?
 
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I have a Big Red seal kit for the 120 brand new and unopened if you are interested, PM me for a price if you would like it.
 
I have seen those on ebay!
Do MrT have replacement seals or do they expect you to buy the full calliper!
I think i wil have a look a week friday to see if they are becoming sized or not.
 
Pistons: 47731-35040
Seal Kit (for two calipers): 04479-60080

Be sure to speak to Ian about them as Mr-T prices are.... :shock:

You don't need a full caliper, replace pistons as required.

If you have the older calipers, (pre 2005 I think) I would get a spare piston. Mine were screwed, I've seen others which are bad as well due to leaking.
The seals are all the same though.


I've been thinking about the good vs bad of the calipers. When next I have the wheel off, I want to put a small cable tie around the seal. The newer ones have an cir-clip which holds the seal in place. The older ones, there is a simple lip and the seal holds itself there. A very small cable tie should fit into the lip and help things out.
 
The older ones, there is a simple lip and the seal holds itself there. A very small cable tie should fit into the lip and help things out.

Yes as long as it doesn't melt with heat....a metal one if possible would be better. The early caliper seal design was a bit crap. I ended up replacing both calipers on mine and sold one old one 'new style' and scrapped the other which was original. It was junk with the pistons jammed tight. My 120 had been reversed into sea water judging by the sand and corrosion on it underneath so I'd say that was a contributory factor overall.
 
Nuclear Chicken said:
Yes as long as it doesn't melt with heat....a metal one if possible would be better.

:oops: this is true...

I see on the parts diagram it is listed but says not applicable. Will pay Mr-T a vist and see if he can get them.
 
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