Seized spare wheel lock

[Gorm]

The lock that secures the spare wheel has seized. I've sprayed with some CRC, but don't want to apply much force to it with the key. I've never unlocked the spare wheel, so I'm not familiar with the mechanics behind the lock. It is not crucial for me to have a lock on the rear wheel, so maybe I'll just destroy it with a drill.

Any suggestions?

<Stilleben of key in seized lock>

 

[AdventureWagon]

Just turning the whole body of the lock will make the locking fingers rub on the ridges they lock into and the jiggling about might free them. You should just be able to put the key in then pull off the lock, no turning of the key required. I have noticed mine only comes off at certain rotational positions. I assume you sprayed the CRC through the keyhole as well?

 

[Gorm]

I've had CRC in the lock through the key hole, and I've also sprayed behind the plastic cover. I've tried to turn the lock-housing with a pipe wrench. This feels very solid, and I don't think it is meant to be turned. I've also wiggled the lock with a flat screwdriver. Nothing moves so far. I'll respray with CRC a couple of times just to see if it loosens over time.

 

[Shayne]

Not sure why i'm inclined to think that kind of lock should push in a little like a button before it turns ?

 

[Gorm]

I'm not able to push it at all. It's rock solid.
The manual doesn't say much.

 

[Tractionman]

As per AdventureWagon, key in, rotate key to a certain position with one hand, and at the same time try to pull off the chrome outer/combined inner with the other.
There is a rubber 0 ring in there that grips.

 

[AdventureWagon]

I am pretty sure the lock can turn on the spindle normally but if it won't move with a pipe wrench then forcing it more will just snap that spindle. The spindle just has ridges that the lock fingers go into and these ridges are all the way round.

Could try tapping with a hammer lightly though the lock body would be quite thin.

 

[AdventureWagon]

Just thought it might be worth trying another key if you have one. My normal one is quite worn but still works in the ignition. But I have a grey valet key that's mint.

 

[DH.120]

I didn’t think that these locks required any turning of the lock or key but that the key when inserted simply engages some small pins right near the back and then the lock will just pull straight off; hence the normal put the key in and wiggle the key / lock approach “helps” engage the pins.

WD40 is not great for licks as it will attract crap afterwards, but should work in this occasion - get the small tube as far in the lock as you can and squirt in “too much”. The small pins are notorious for getting crap on and basically sticking so not releasing. Also, if you have a spare key try using that one and not the everyday key, it could be just a fraction longer as not worn over time, which could make the difference in engaging the pins.

 

[Shayne]

Graphite powder is the locksmiths lubricant .

 

[Gorm]

I've lubricated several times with VD40. I've tried some slight blows with a hammer. I've applied heat with a propane torch. I've tried to rotate the outer housing with a pipe wrench. I've tried to use an unused spare key. I've wiggled and wiggled again. The pins inside the lock seems to engage with the key, but of course there could be just one pin that doesn't move. For now I'm not able to disengage the lock.

Does anyone have a suggestion on how to break the lock open without cousing to much damage? I can certainly live with the wheel just bolted on but unlocked.

 

[Tractionman]

Drill it.
You won't be able to use the plastic cover after removing it, they fit together.
The wheel retaining bolt will be ok to use after, or fit a locker.
My 120 lock was corroded so much when I got it, the key wouldn't go in, so I drilled it, then fitted a locking wheel nut.

 

[karl2000]

I've lubricated several times with VD40. I've tried some slight blows with a hammer. I've applied heat with a propane torch. I've tried to rotate the outer housing with a pipe wrench. I've tried to use an unused spare key. I've wiggled and wiggled again. The pins inside the lock seems to engage with the key, but of course there could be just one pin that doesn't move. For now I'm not able to disengage the lock.

Now we know you're not a safe cracker!

 

[Tractionman]

Gorm was saving the Semtex for seized nuts and bolts !

 

[Gorm]

Thanks Tractionman. I'll just drill it.

 

[Jureb]

Drill it.
You won't be able to use the plastic cover after removing it, they fit together.
The wheel retaining bolt will be ok to use after, or fit a locker.
My 120 lock was corroded so much when I got it, the key wouldn't go in, so I drilled it, then fitted a locking wheel nut.

I'm having the same problem as @Gorm. So the plastic cover of the spare wheel is held on by the wheel lock and not by the nut behind it? Also what size locking wheel nut did you use? I want to be somewhat prepared after I've drilled out the rubbish wheel lock...

 

[Tractionman]

Hi Jureb, my lock was so badly corroded, the key wouldn't go in and the plastic disc/wheel cover could be rotated.
After drilling the lock, the whole lot fell to bits, the cover came off and I was able to undo the wheel nut part of the lock.
The locking wheel nut I used was a 5th spare one I got with the lc3, that matched the rest and used the same key.
Any locker with the right thread, bevel and pitch to suit the lc will fit, not sure if you can buy 1 though, rather than the usual set of 4.

 

[Jureb]

I think I've found the right wheel locking nuts, part number: 00276-00900. They are sold on Ebay and Amazon. Prado 90 has M12x1.5 wheel nuts (at least I think so). I will buy them and fit one after I've drilled the lock out.

 

[Tractionman]

Make sure you get the correct ones for your wheels, presumeably alloy and not steel ?

 

[Jureb]

Make sure you get the correct ones for your wheels, presumeably alloy and not steel ?

Yes I have 3 spoke alloy wheels with these nuts - approx 48mm in length. I found 45mm long lock nuts: 00276-00901.