Last couple of weekends I've been preparing my 200 for undersealing, pressure washing the undersides, wirewheeling the surface rust and rust treating. I'm almost at the end of it now, but just a bit of advice, the rear offside (drivers side) wheel arch, which has the inspection hatch for the AHC reservoir, plus rear mudflap assembly form a serious mud trap, I'd avise anyone with a 200 to remove this mudflap, plus the inspection cover and clean it out, mine was absolutely jam packed with soil. The nearside rear arch, doesn't have the same configuration so was not bad. it's a quick and easy job to remove the mudflap assembly and flush out.
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Serious Mud Trap (AHC Inspection cover)
- Thread starter Brett
- Start date
I've actually finished it. I did the dynax last weekend, luckily managed to borrow a ramp for a few hours and did the injection of the S50 and UB on the underside. I'll take a few photos this weekend as I haven't replaced all the guards yet.
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Nice one, you went to town on that.
Did you spray inside the chassis with those Bilt Hamber probes? they're the best i've found and with BH's cavity waxes never had a single blockage (don't mention Waxoyl and Blockages cos i still have nightmares about the stuff), i'm going to try and attach one to to the garden sprayer which i use to spray heated ACF50.
Did you spray inside the chassis with those Bilt Hamber probes? they're the best i've found and with BH's cavity waxes never had a single blockage (don't mention Waxoyl and Blockages cos i still have nightmares about the stuff), i'm going to try and attach one to to the garden sprayer which i use to spray heated ACF50.
I did buy an aerosol of S50 & UB which came with the probes buti haven't used them. I also bought the 5 litre Jerry can of each. I sprayed with the Sealy SG18 waxoyl sprayer and a compressor. The SG18 does come with the same type of probe and I used that to inject S50 into the chassis.
No blockages with either product, no heating, sprayed at ambient temperature.
No blockages with either product, no heating, sprayed at ambient temperature.
Brett,
This is very interesting and something I'm thinking about as well as there appears to be sant rustproofing as standard.
How much s50 and UB did you need?
Was the s50 for injection into the chassis members? Were there enough access points
Was the UB for the rest of the underside?
This is very interesting and something I'm thinking about as well as there appears to be sant rustproofing as standard.
How much s50 and UB did you need?
Was the s50 for injection into the chassis members? Were there enough access points
Was the UB for the rest of the underside?
Hi, I ordered the 5 litre Jerry cans, 1 of each. I only did one coat, as the weather turned and it's now dirty. But I've got just over half of the UB left (I used a heavy coat) and probably 2/3rds of the S50 left. There are loads of access points to inject (I only did chassis and LCA's etc. UB was for chassis external and rest of underside.
I'll repeat next year in spring.
I'll repeat next year in spring.
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Slight hijack but still " mud trap" related. On my one owner from new 100 series.
This was behind the rear mudflaps. Luckily when cleaned out there was no rust whatsoever. Just shows whats lurking out of sight.
This was behind the rear mudflaps. Luckily when cleaned out there was no rust whatsoever. Just shows whats lurking out of sight.
I don't think mud itself is too much of a problem to be honest, you see farm used vehicles literally caked in the stuff but once washed off they're still in solid order.
Its road dirt mixed with salt that's the real killer, get that salt trapped inside and its going to to do its thing without let up until someone eventually hoses the stuff out, and we all know that very few owners who can afford these new have the slightest interest in doing that, which why we are where we are.
During my previous work i saw the results of salt left on and what it could do to the most modern of vehicles.
We'd collect ex fleet/rental cars by the truckload and if they'd covered the required mileage too quickly (was 12k miles at one time for renters) they would be stood in compounds for months on end to balance supply/demand and keep values healthy.
Things were ok if a car was defleeted in October say and stood over the winter, fine underneath, spring summer rains had washed much of the salt off.
But if a car was defleeted in March and stood 6 months, that road salt coating underneath would have been burning into everything corrodable, load it up again in October to go to auction and the difference underneath on a car still not 12 months old was staggering, exhausts rotten and an all over white salt covering that the summer heat had baked on, especially on the brakes, i bet if you followed the history of such cars and knew the dates of standing involved you'd be able to predict which would last and which would have constant rust and brake issues.
Its road dirt mixed with salt that's the real killer, get that salt trapped inside and its going to to do its thing without let up until someone eventually hoses the stuff out, and we all know that very few owners who can afford these new have the slightest interest in doing that, which why we are where we are.
During my previous work i saw the results of salt left on and what it could do to the most modern of vehicles.
We'd collect ex fleet/rental cars by the truckload and if they'd covered the required mileage too quickly (was 12k miles at one time for renters) they would be stood in compounds for months on end to balance supply/demand and keep values healthy.
Things were ok if a car was defleeted in October say and stood over the winter, fine underneath, spring summer rains had washed much of the salt off.
But if a car was defleeted in March and stood 6 months, that road salt coating underneath would have been burning into everything corrodable, load it up again in October to go to auction and the difference underneath on a car still not 12 months old was staggering, exhausts rotten and an all over white salt covering that the summer heat had baked on, especially on the brakes, i bet if you followed the history of such cars and knew the dates of standing involved you'd be able to predict which would last and which would have constant rust and brake issues.
Thanks Brett,
I'm going to get hold of some of that. Might leave it until spring though as it is getting cold outside now. I do have a garage and a pit but almost impossible to get the 200 in there. Even with the mirrors folded in there is only a few mm either side to spare, it is quite a bit wider than my other 90 series. Need to swap out the single doors for a much larger roller shutter
I'm going to get hold of some of that. Might leave it until spring though as it is getting cold outside now. I do have a garage and a pit but almost impossible to get the 200 in there. Even with the mirrors folded in there is only a few mm either side to spare, it is quite a bit wider than my other 90 series. Need to swap out the single doors for a much larger roller shutter
