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Squeaky problem with HDJ 80

G

Guest

Guest
Hello.
I'm new to this board and have a few problems with my 1996 HDJ 80 that I
don't know how to solve. The first problem is that when I reverse I hear a
constant squeaky noise form the back of the car. Some say that it could be
that wheel bearing has play and tilts the wheel so that my hand brake is
rubing. How could I check this? Anyone knows other explanation for this to
happen? When going foreward the squeak disappears. The other problem is in
the front. When I turn hard right at higher speeds I hear another squeaky
noise coming from the right wheel. It does not appear when turning left. The
squeak also appears when going slowly and I let the throttle fast, but it
only squeaks and then quiets. What would be the cause of that? Also wheel
bearings? Thank you in advance for your answers.
Regards,
Miha Vovk
Slovenia
1996 HDJ80, OME 5cm lift, 285 BFG AT, ARB front bumper, DIY rear bumper
 
G

Guest

Guest
Welcome Miha, dobar dan,
I am sure you will get a plethora of answers on these things and there will be many more suggestions.
Rear axle - have you jacked it up and pushed-pulled the wheel to see if there is bearing slack? If slack then you probably have your answer. If it is not then I suggest that you pull the brakes apart and check that the self adjuster is working OK. The shoes will be tapered at the leading edge for normal rotation but in reverse, if the shoes are not quite right then there is a chance of the trailing edge to scuff the drum. Either way it needs fixing.
Front axle - let's start with the basics, did you know that the front pads have a 'screamer' inserted in them to indicate worn pads? This could be the first sign of them just touching the disc. Second, have you had the wheels off and checked the bearings and brakes anyway? Ok you will do this to check if the screamers are touching, but if not the problem and the beafrings are OK, one of the pistons may be sticking and its time to overhaul them. Whilst you are in there, just make sure that the thin steel shroud on the back of the brake assembly has not been bent by stones etc. that cause it to touch anywhere.
Cheers
Jon
Linslade, Beds
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hello.
Thank you for your answer. I did jacked up the rear and there is no slack
that you mention. Also a brake mechanic had a look at the brakes but said
nothing is wrong accept that the pads aren't worth a cent (Milner pads).
Also at the front the pads are two months old and can not be worn so the
"screamer" could squeak. The bearings are also tight enough and donth have
any slack (did the same test as at the rear).
Another question: Anyone had experiences with Milner rear locker actuator?
Is this OEM part or some aftermarket? If so is it worth buying?
Regards,
Miha Vovk
Slovenia
1996 HDJ80, OME 5cm lift, 285 BFG AT, ARB front bumper, DIY rear bumper
On Fri, Feb 27, 2009 at 1:14 PM, toyj80 <[Email address removed]> wrote:
> Welcome Miha, dobar dan,
>
> I am sure you will get a plethora of answers on these things and there will
> be many more suggestions.
>
> Rear axle - have you jacked it up and pushed-pulled the wheel to see if
> there is bearing slack? If slack then you probably have your answer. If it
> is not then I suggest that you pull the brakes apart and check that the self
> adjuster is working OK. The shoes will be tapered at the leading edge for
> normal rotation but in reverse, if the shoes are not quite right then there
> is a chance of the trailing edge to scuff the drum. Either way it needs
> fixing.
>
> Front axle - let's start with the basics, did you know that the front pads
> have a 'screamer' inserted in them to indicate worn pads? This could be the
> first sign of them just touching the disc. Second, have you had the wheels
> off and checked the bearings and brakes anyway? Ok you will do this to
> check if the screamers are touching, but if not the problem and the
> beafrings are OK, one of the pistons may be sticking and its time to
> overhaul them. Whilst you are in there, just make sure that the thin steel
> shroud on the back of the brake assembly has not been bent by stones etc.
> that cause it to touch anywhere.
>
> Cheers
>
> Jon
> Linslade, Beds
>
 
G

Guest

Guest
Miha wrote...
Thank you for your answer. I did jacked up the rear and there is no slack
that you mention. Also a brake mechanic had a look at the brakes but said
nothing is wrong accept that the pads aren't worth a cent (Milner pads).
Also at the front the pads are two months old and can not be worn so the
"screamer" could squeak. The bearings are also tight enough and donth have
any slack (did the same test as at the rear).
SNIP
Miha, in your opening mail you gave the impression that you were tackling
the problem, but you now say you have been to a 'brake mechanic'. So I
assume that this is after your first posting in the past 2 days?
From, my own bitter experience, if I was not a handy mechanic myself I would
take it to someone who knows how Toys are put together, how Toys perform,
how Toys wear, how Toys are adjusted, and how Toys are repaired. A classic
case is our old mate JB in Ireland whose local garage put a Yaris mechanic
on his 80 and he became an instant 'expert'. Many euros later JB has at last
found someone who knows about the marque. So how much does a 'brake
mechanic' know about a sophisticated Toy 4WD?
Your mechanic's comment about pads is not of great value when you said your
problem was with the handbrake - operated by shoes. The only way to check
they are working is to dis-assemble them, and on the way you will naturally
ensure that the operating mechanism is working. So did your man actually do
that? - your thinning wallet would be a sure indicator if he did, as its not
a quick job. A quick look through the shoe wear inspection hole is not
enough on a Toy the age of yours.
On the front brakes again, ignoring comments about pad make, (most of us fit
OEM) is your man assuming that they are not worn cos they are 2 months old,
or has he removed the wheel, pulled the pads out and then given an opinion?
2 months travel in gritty mud can erode a pad especially if the quality is
not the best - as he says.
If they appear OK then check that the pads are wearing evenly in each pair.
If you find some unevenness on one pad, or one of a pair thinner than the
other, then you can suspect that one of the pistons is not functioning
properly and it might be time to pull the pistons, give them a clean and put
new seals in. (If a piston is sticky, it will not retract and leave slight
pressure on the pad which touches the disc on cornering as you have
described). Has your brake mechanic done that for you ? If the outer dust
shrouds on the end of the pistons look anything other than pristine, then I
would definitely check the pistons for smooth and even operation. Another
routine matter would be to ask yourself when was the last time you changed
the fluid? If you do a lot of rough driving then it must be done annually,
if not then every 2 years. Lack of fluid change is often the root of a lot
of brake malfunction due to the internal corrosion it causes. HTH
Anything else Julian?
Cheers
Jon
Linslade, Beds
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hello. Yes that (break mechanic) was in Friday. I don't know what that guy
did, but at least he didn't charge me any money, because he said he didin't
fix my problem. I guess I will just have to take it to Toyota mechanics then
to check it out as I did open it today just to realise everything looks OK
in there. Thank you for your answer and effort.
Regards,
Miha Vovk
Slovenia
1996 HDJ80, OME 5cm lift, 285 BFG AT, ARB front bumper, DIY rear bumper
On Sat, Feb 28, 2009 at 10:46 AM, toyj80 <[Email address removed]> wrote:
> Miha wrote...
> Thank you for your answer. I did jacked up the rear and there is no slack
> that you mention. Also a brake mechanic had a look at the brakes but said
> nothing is wrong accept that the pads aren't worth a cent (Milner pads).
> Also at the front the pads are two months old and can not be worn so the
> "screamer" could squeak. The bearings are also tight enough and donth have
> any slack (did the same test as at the rear).
> SNIP
>
> Miha, in your opening mail you gave the impression that you were tackling
> the problem, but you now say you have been to a 'brake mechanic'. So I
> assume that this is after your first posting in the past 2 days?
>
> From, my own bitter experience, if I was not a handy mechanic myself I
> would take it to someone who knows how Toys are put together, how Toys
> perform, how Toys wear, how Toys are adjusted, and how Toys are repaired. A
> classic case is our old mate JB in Ireland whose local garage put a Yaris
> mechanic on his 80 and he became an instant 'expert'. Many euros later JB
> has at last found someone who knows about the marque. So how much does a
> 'brake mechanic' know about a sophisticated Toy 4WD?
>
> Your mechanic's comment about pads is not of great value when you said your
> problem was with the handbrake - operated by shoes. The only way to check
> they are working is to dis-assemble them, and on the way you will naturally
> ensure that the operating mechanism is working. So did your man actually do
> that? - your thinning wallet would be a sure indicator if he did, as its not
> a quick job. A quick look through the shoe wear inspection hole is not
> enough on a Toy the age of yours.
>
> On the front brakes again, ignoring comments about pad make, (most of us
> fit OEM) is your man assuming that they are not worn cos they are 2 months
> old, or has he removed the wheel, pulled the pads out and then given an
> opinion? 2 months travel in gritty mud can erode a pad especially if the
> quality is not the best - as he says.
>
> If they appear OK then check that the pads are wearing evenly in each pair.
> If you find some unevenness on one pad, or one of a pair thinner than the
> other, then you can suspect that one of the pistons is not functioning
> properly and it might be time to pull the pistons, give them a clean and put
> new seals in. (If a piston is sticky, it will not retract and leave slight
> pressure on the pad which touches the disc on cornering as you have
> described). Has your brake mechanic done that for you ? If the outer dust
> shrouds on the end of the pistons look anything other than pristine, then I
> would definitely check the pistons for smooth and even operation. Another
> routine matter would be to ask yourself when was the last time you changed
> the fluid? If you do a lot of rough driving then it must be done annually,
> if not then every 2 years. Lack of fluid change is often the root of a lot
> of brake malfunction due to the internal corrosion it causes. HTH
>
> Anything else Julian?
>
> Cheers
> Jon
> Linslade, Beds
> --
> European Land Cruiser Owners Mailing List
> Further Info: http://www.landcruisers.info/lists/
>
 
G

Guest

Guest
Miha wrote...
Hello. Yes that (break mechanic) was in Friday. I don't know what that guy
did, but at least he didn't charge me any money, because he said he didin't
fix my problem. I guess I will just have to take it to Toyota mechanics then
to check it out as I did open it today just to realise everything looks OK
in there. Thank you for your answer and effort.
SNIP
Miha, sorry you could not make any progress, but perhaps you have observed
the value of finding someone who will not give an opinion until he has spent
time investigating, albeit at your cost. Unfortunately there are still a
lot of garages out there who want to make money but not do the work
properly. You don't necessarily have to go to a Toy dealer, but someone who
works on Japanese 4WD's where Toys will probably be the majority of the
vehicles he looks at. But if you do go to a dealer then check out what he
has in his workshop and see if he really does work on older models or at
least pulls the larger models apart, and not just service them. I guess you
will find some good people up in your ski areas where there will be more
80's around.
In the UK ,and I suspect most of northern Europe, 80's in their teens are
mostly looked after either by their loving owners or small independent
garages. We have just the same problem finding them in the UK and thankfully
we are lucky in having a real Toy specialist in Julian who owns this forum.
We have plenty of 'specialist' companies who claim to be experienced with
Toy mechanicals, but when it comes to looking at their workload they are
mostly Land Rover dealers who think that they can handle all other 4X4's,
unfortunately they underestimate the superior features of Toy design and
manufacture. Some have come and gone on this very forum.
I am sure in the past we have had a contributor from Slovenia who may well
be a useful contact for recommending reliable garages. Its a shame he has
not picked-up your query. Best of luck anyway, and when you solve the 2
problems please report back as it will help all of us in our knowledge of
the 80.
Cheers
Jon
Linslade, Beds.
 
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G

Guest

Guest
Hi Jon,
I'm coming from Slovenia as well and I know Miha so we discussed the
issue and we couldn't find the answer. But anyway the main problem
remains that we don't have any real local LC specialist.
The Toyota garage which I personaly use is OK but their policy is more
or less "replace everything with genuine toyota parts" and they are not
familiar with all the details as really dedicated guys like Julian are
so their diagnosis are not really reliable and of course far from been
cost efficient ...
Therefore any help from the fellow LC owners on this list is more then
appreciated.
Best regards,
Tomaz
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hi Miha,
The squeaking from the rear axle does sound like the hand brake shoes
might be rubbing - try jacking up each corner at a time with the
gearbox in neutral and turn the wheels to see if you can re-create the
noise.
Is the noise from the front axle definitely a squeak, not a metal on
metal grinding noise? If it is a grinding sort of noise it is most
likely a CV joint on it's way out (assuming that you have already
checked the wheel bearings for play).
If it is more of a higher pitched squeak/grinding noise, I would remove
the brake pads and make sure that they are clean and there is not too
much dirt caught up in the grove in the middle of the pad.
I would also check the front and rear axles to see if the metal (thin
tin) dust guards at the back of the brake disks aren't rubbing.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
0845 508 6863
Ledbury, Herefordshire. UK
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift and a few goodies.
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hello. Thank you for reply. Will try the rear axle thing, but for front...
It is not likely that the CV joint will fail as they are both new 1500km ago
and the vehicle did not see much off road situations from then. And it is a
higher pitch noise only when turning right at higher speeds. I will check
the pads, and probably replace them with OEM and see if it makes any
difference. I will report about solutions of my problem. Thank you all for
your efforts.
Regards,
Miha Vovk
Slovenia
1996 HDJ80, OME 5cm lift, 285 BFG AT, ARB front bumper, DIY rear bumper
On Tue, Mar 3, 2009 at 10:46 AM, Julian Voelcker
<[Email address removed]>wrote:
> Hi Miha,
>
> The squeaking from the rear axle does sound like the hand brake shoes
> might be rubbing - try jacking up each corner at a time with the
> gearbox in neutral and turn the wheels to see if you can re-create the
> noise.
>
> Is the noise from the front axle definitely a squeak, not a metal on
> metal grinding noise? If it is a grinding sort of noise it is most
> likely a CV joint on it's way out (assuming that you have already
> checked the wheel bearings for play).
>
> If it is more of a higher pitched squeak/grinding noise, I would remove
> the brake pads and make sure that they are clean and there is not too
> much dirt caught up in the grove in the middle of the pad.
>
> I would also check the front and rear axles to see if the metal (thin
> tin) dust guards at the back of the brake disks aren't rubbing.
> --
> Regards,
>
> Julian Voelcker
> 0845 508 6863
> Ledbury, Herefordshire. UK
> 1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift and a few goodies.
>
>
> --
> European Land Cruiser Owners Mailing List
> Further Info: http://www.landcruisers.info/lists/
>
 
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