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Sticking clutch pedal

Rob

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Mar 1, 2010
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Not used my 80 in about 4 weeks and I got into it today and the clutch pedal was almost at the floor. I could still use it as the biting point seemed to have moved very close to the floor but it was an on off clutch at this point. I pumped it a few more times and it slowly became less sticky and after about 30 seconds I had coaxed the pedal into its normal position and everything seems normal now. Fluid level is at max, although rather black.

Done a quick search and not found much info on this issue. Any ideas what it could be? Is it a hydraulic issue? Mine does not have a booster on the clutch hydraulics. Could it be that the fork/release bearing got stuck?
 
Could be air in the system. Failing that, with no obvious fluid loss I’d suspect the master cylinder seals. If the seals are dodgy the fluid can escape past them back into reservoir during operation giving excess pedal travel.
 
I suspect i have air in my clutch system but looking at the price of parts i think i will just take a new master and slave to a garage saying fix it .
 
Always worth bleeding the slave on a regular basis. It's right on the bell housing in all the heat and filth. I do mine regulalry and it's amazing how quickly the end of the line picks up filth. Makes for a much better pedal. Rare for it to be the master.
 
Do I understand it right ? The Landcruisers are self-healing in 30 seconds?
 
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If only you had a blue one Chris. Life would be so simple
 
I know I know. Sniff.


Hee hee hee
 
Black will be break down of the seals.
When the seals in my slave cylinder started to go the pedal would stick to the floor, I would have to flick it up with my foot.
New seal kit cheap and easy job.
 
did you get the clutch wet prior to the non-use period - if so, could be rust. The thrust bearing likes to jam up...
 
did you get the clutch wet prior to the non-use period - if so, could be rust. The thrust bearing likes to jam up...
No wading before the lack of use, just drove it round town or similar.

Black will be break down of the seals.
When the seals in my slave cylinder started to go the pedal would stick to the floor, I would have to flick it up with my foot.
New seal kit cheap and easy job.
I know my brake master cylinder seals are past their best so kinda leaning towards doing that and the clutch hydraulics.

Always worth bleeding the slave on a regular basis. It's right on the bell housing in all the heat and filth. I do mine regulalry and it's amazing how quickly the end of the line picks up filth. Makes for a much better pedal. Rare for it to be the master.
Seeing as the 80 just seems to always work so I have been a bit relaxed about the preventative maintenance so the clutch and brake fluid has been in there for some years. Can't say the same about the other cars in the fleet. Maybe I should commute in the 80?

I guess I will try bleeding it, if not it will have to get to the back of the queue as the daily cars need work.
 
It looks like there are many different opinions on why a pedal sticks to the floor an what to do about it. So I'll just add one more. My pedal started getting lazy coming back up when cold, it is a mechanically assisted pedal. No obvious leaks to be found so I decided to change the clutch fluid bleeding by depressing the pedal. All fine, problem solved. A few days later I left for a 1000km drive, after an hour or so, pedal stuck to the floor.
I considered replacing parts but I just couldn't figure out which one so I reverted to yet another bleeding session. This time using a new vinyl line on the bleeder. First I force the pedal up/down ten times and go bleeding. Sure enough, two minuscule bubbles appear. So I go repeat this and another miniature minuscule bubble comes out. Ever since this bubble was released to ambient air everything is fine. With the clutch pedal and with me.
I conclude that bleeding this system needs perseverance as air can easily remain trapped and that even a very very small air bubble in the system can cause the pedal sticking to the floor.
 
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