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Stub axle worn groove

nielsc

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belgium
I am rebuilding my swivels and whilst doing the left one i noticed the hub seal has worn a groove in it.
As I don’t really have time to wait on a new one, would it be OK to put it back this way?
I slide over the new hub seal with a bit of oil and it still seems pretty “tight” even tough I can feel it slide in the groove.
A while back I had really loose wheel bearings on that side. That may have caused that because the other side was fine.
Also left (long) halfshaft worn a nice groove in it, right side was fine. I’ll probably fit a speedi sleeve there.
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Well of course the 'right' answer would be to replace it, but I'd certainly send it round again if that was necessary. I'd make sure it was well greased of course to prevent wear, but I'd also think about seating the seal slightly differently. When you drive in the seal, the tendency is to knock it in until it stops against the rebate in the hub. Normally I just do mine until they're flush. But you could consider leaving it slightly proud so that it doesn't run in that groove.

As long as it's not rough and as you say it feels like a good seal, then I wouldn't worry. It's a pretty poor seal at best anyway and hardly keeps the water and muck out in the first place. You could put a Speedisleeve on there but frankly I just wouldn't.
 
Yeah i was also thinking to drive it in 1mm less than fully seated. Just not too sure if it’s possible as the seal is already close to the stub.
It’s smooth as silk , just a little groove.
I searched for a speedi sleeve but could not find one in that size.
 
I'd grease it up and go with it. Really not much of an issue at all.
 
I would think a speedi sleeve that size would cost almost as much as a new stub axle.

Just one thought, is there a slight burr on the shoulder that takes the seal? If the bearings have been running loose they sometimes run on the shaft and raise anything from a slight burr to a razor blade as well as scoring the axle. I’m not saying there is on yours but there is a ‘witness’ of where the bearing has been. It’s just something to be aware of.
 
Yes there is a small sharp lip on the shoulder where the bearing runs. Indeed there are marks of the bearings running on the stub axle, also on the bearings themselfs. I’m replacing the bearings anyway. Would there be much problems from this? I was thinking of grinding this off.
 
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It looks minimal Niels but if in any doubt check if there is any difference in diameter around where the bearing sits. If it’s more than a few thou oval it may be worth considering replacing the stub axle. If they are slightly oval turning them round 180 degrees would help so the weight is on the other side if you see what I mean. Also don’t grind but use a very fine sharp needle file to remove the burr and put a tiny chamfer all the way round. The seals can be a pig and fold over on reassembly, especially the large outer dust seals. Not so much the one that sits on there but still worth giving it a bit of a lead in. Then make sure the bearings are Pre loaded and the whole is fully seated otherwise the bearings will rotate again. Loctite do bearing fit’ to stop this but it’s not generally intended for this type of bearing. Could work if needed.

Bottom line, in your situation if in any doubt, I would replace the stub axle.
 
By grinding I meant using a file :)
I think it will be fine. Its just a small sharp little edge. I will rotate it 90 degrees, good tip, Thanks !
I test fitted a new bearing and it’s tight enough I believe, better then the old bearings.
 
I agree I think it’s minimal. If you have access to one, measure with a micrometer at several places around the shaft to see if it’s round or not. Peace of mind at least.
 
I've reassembled the whole lot, so far so good !
New bearings are just tight enough on the spindle.
 
Did you rotate it in the end? I didn't think it would be possible, due to the holes not being evenly spaced. So I am interested to know.....

Maybe the models in other countries are different?
 
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Indeed, it was not possible. There is a notch in the casting wich has to point downward.
 
Indeed, it was not possible. There is a notch in the casting wich has to point downward.
Ah yes I remember that notch. My bad. I had to replace mine so didn’t try rotating. I think it’s possible with the bolt holes though isn’t it? Just the notch?
 
Iirc the bolt holes will only line up with the correct orientation.
 
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