Just looking for some advice on suction control valve removal. Everywhere i looked advises to remove the two bolts remove the valve and replace. Have removed the 2 bolts and valve is now loose but cannot get enough of a grip to pull off. Started with fingers, moved to pliers ,grips etc but without success. Before i do anything stupid can anyone share how they overcame this problem. Bought the vehicle a few months ago so using furlough to do all the maintenance that may or not have been done in the past and this was part of the preventative maintenance as original short version was still in place. All other jobs have been relatively painless but scratching my head a bit with this issue.
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Suction Control Valve Removal
- Thread starter IAIN1745
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As its now loose can you not use something to lever it out . like those strong plastic interior trim removers of various shapes and sizes that one gets cheap on ebay should be OK or a couple of flat blade screwdrivers one on each end , but make sure you dont get any dirt inside the entry hole or on the new valve .
I'm interested in this as I've got it on my list of jobs too! I was going to buy the SCV from RoughTrax - is that the best place? How can I be sure I get the long SVC and not the short one, are arent the short ones supplied anymore? Thanks!
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You can be sure its the long one and genuine Denso part on sale at RoughTrax , I have seen them on sale on ebay for the third of the price that RoughTrax sells them but they could be Chinese copy's or other substandard (compared to Denso ) make . on the sellers description page most dont say the brand and is left empty or says brand unknown or some brand name I have never heard of , I think you get what you pay for .
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I have thought of changing mine seeing they can be known to give problems , but since mine seems to be fine and never had a problem with it yet , since the SCV costs £183 I thought I would wait for it to start to play up before I change it , I have been told you can check it on tec stream by looking on what the target fuel pressure is and what the actual fuel pressure is as it should be close to the target fuel pressure at all engine speeds , and also see if the actual fuel pressure keeps dipping and rising erratically whilst the engine is idling shows the SCV is faulty .
Thanks for the info Tony - I'll get it from RoughTrax! I wonder if it comes with a new O ring or if i will have to order that separately?
Mine isnt giving problems either (touch wood) - but it seems like when it goes, its catastrophic and I dont want to be stranded if its something thats avoidable! I'm not sure how much warning you get if its on the way out.
Info on Fourby4diesel on YouTube said the fuel pressure should be between about 32,000 and 35,000 (kPa?) - mine is in that range but it does jump about a bit, so..... !
Mine isnt giving problems either (touch wood) - but it seems like when it goes, its catastrophic and I dont want to be stranded if its something thats avoidable! I'm not sure how much warning you get if its on the way out.
Info on Fourby4diesel on YouTube said the fuel pressure should be between about 32,000 and 35,000 (kPa?) - mine is in that range but it does jump about a bit, so..... !
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Just ordered, looks like it comes with everything!
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Just watched a youtube video on removing and fitting a scv on a 1KD-FTV engine by forby4diesel he put it out on 9 October 2019 , on the removing he wiggled and pulled it out at the same time , its a very good informative video well worth a watch for anyone who wants to change one .
Thanks to everyone for the help. Just to add to the discussion as it is always annoying when someone posts a problem and never follows up with the resolution.
Had my porridge this morning and the valve came out with 30 seconds of wriggling and pulling. This was after an hour yesterday evening with no success. I did replace the valve with a genuine Denso part and used youtube channel fourby4diesel as a guide. If any Landcruiser owner has not seen these videos they are missing out on a fantastic resource. The replacement was the long version of the valve and everything was included in the kit apart from the gasket so care has to be taken not to damage or lose this during the process. Fitting new valve was simple although the fourby4 diesel video took the usual trial and error out of the first time fitting process. Thanks again for the replies.
Had my porridge this morning and the valve came out with 30 seconds of wriggling and pulling. This was after an hour yesterday evening with no success. I did replace the valve with a genuine Denso part and used youtube channel fourby4diesel as a guide. If any Landcruiser owner has not seen these videos they are missing out on a fantastic resource. The replacement was the long version of the valve and everything was included in the kit apart from the gasket so care has to be taken not to damage or lose this during the process. Fitting new valve was simple although the fourby4 diesel video took the usual trial and error out of the first time fitting process. Thanks again for the replies.
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I thought about it and I dont want to wait till it goes bad and have to wait for one delivered to Cyprus , so I have ordered one , but having looked at mine today it all looks dirty so need to give the area a good clean and then blast with a air compressor .
To those who have already done this, can I ask how you got access? The video above shows doing it from the top, but there also looks like there might be good access if you take the front passenger wheel off and go in that way..... Thanks!
Dont think there is any advantage in taking off the front wheel. Access is ok from the top and even the bolt at the back which you cannot see does locate easily. For installation of the new SCV i used one of the supplied guide pins on the front bolt and extension with the 5mm allen key socket and bolt " glued" to it with grease to fit the back bolt. It is probably easier with a 1/4 inch socket if available as the bolt hole is very close to the SCV body.
There are multiple threads on here, but thought I would post on this one.
So how do you know if the SCV needs to be replaced?
I have been having a ongoing issue with my 120 for a while now (prob 2 years) where it will go into limp mode whilst driving, this is especially noticeable in the mornings on a cold start. Starts and idles ok, but if you boot it straight away (typical of the wife) it will go into limp mode. I am tempted to replace the SCV, but was wondering if there was a scientific way of knowing it is faulty? Is this something that can be checked with Techstream?
So how do you know if the SCV needs to be replaced?
I have been having a ongoing issue with my 120 for a while now (prob 2 years) where it will go into limp mode whilst driving, this is especially noticeable in the mornings on a cold start. Starts and idles ok, but if you boot it straight away (typical of the wife) it will go into limp mode. I am tempted to replace the SCV, but was wondering if there was a scientific way of knowing it is faulty? Is this something that can be checked with Techstream?
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the earlier scv red and green valves gave problems from around 100 k miles onwards and are ware out items , the scv single shorter valve on the later 120s were wrong for the car from the beginning have been known to give problems even when new , and as the mileage builds up become problematic like stalling and refusing to restart straight away and rough idling , denso the maker have rectified the later scv with a longer new type that comes with a spacer to fit the around 2005 on 120s , its easy to tell which type of scv you have by looking to see if its the red and green or single silver scv .
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There is a company called PF Jones who specialise in DENSO diesel injectors , injection pumps and SCVs etc and they sell SCVs for 120s for £72 , one thing to lookout for is if you have the small silver scv in your 120 you will need the scv with the spacer to convert to the longer version . I have bought one to fit when I get round to it . the 1KD expert's claim the engine runs better and better reliability with the new longer version .
