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The 1hdfte misfire hard start fuel timing control fault .

Mikeharris1992

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So I have experienced this with my Landcruiser today I have read up quite a bit about this fault and what it can be.

P1220 is the fault code that comes up which is for the fuel timing control valve which sits in the injection pump

I removed the covers that cover the pump and noticed that the wiring is very tight that goes into the Timing control valve

I wiggled the wiring and it appeared to be okay but prior to that I had unplugged my uni chip so now I’m starting to wonder which one was the problem.

There are quite a few videos of Landcruiser is with this fault with the horrible diesel knock noise at idle and won’t rev also massive lack of power and EML light is on

I’ve seen one video of an ECU with a dry soldered joint inside it and I’ve seen the other ones with broken wiring directly onto the sensor

Just wondering if any of you guys had had any experience with this fault
 
Hi
Interested to know if you found a solution to this issue?
My FTE started to die while driving a month or so back, the renouncing fix when I asked was to replace the earth wire on the spill valve module - so I did and this seemed to fix the problem but it's come back and I am a little stumped!!
Once I get a chance I will be removing the starter battery so I can get to the pump and remove all the covers..
The book I have shows the resistance values of the valve and sensors - but I suspect a bad plug
Only time and testing will tell.

Car 2005 HDJ78R Troop Carrier - 1HD-FTE 4.2 TD motor.
 
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The 79/78s carried the same faulty plugs throughout that the 100s dropped in 02. Start by unplugging the TCV while the engine is idling. It should run heaps worse, if not it may be the plug or any of the wiring. Spray some contact cleaner in the plug and socket and plug it back in, give it all a wiggle including all along the wire looking for a change
 
This thread talks about both the Timing Control Valve and the Spill Control Valve.
TCV is under the IP towards the rear end. SCV is at the top of the IP, above the TCV.

Afaik it's only the SCV (Spill Control) which has had problems with the connector. The SCV is driven by the EDU which gives short pulses of up to 150 volts, and requires a particularly good connection to both the SCV and to ground. (The EDU sits on top of the inside fender, close to the IP)

Does the TCV (Timing Control) also suffer from a bad plug?

For testing the SCV, you can measure ohms: 1 - 2 Ohm at 20 deg C. This is not conclusive though - it can still be bad, but most times it's OK as long as the coil is good.

The TCV can be ohmed to 10 - 14 Ohms at 20 deg C. And it can be tested with 12 v directly, which should result in an audible click. Max 30 sec testing.
 
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TCV plug is a known and accepted fault in Australia on pre 02 100s, with 79/78s using the same wiring throughout. I’ve personally fixed two 79 FTEs with this issue. The TCV itself also plays up (not common) and can be replaced separately to the pump - as usual it needs sourcing from a denso dealer not a Toyota one.

I can’t speak for the spill valve issue I haven’t experienced it
 
Sounds like several different problems in this thread..
My issue appears to be different to most of you comments in that the motor is running fine.. when I can get it started!
Basically while driving if I hit big bumps the motor shuts down and often will not start - turns over fine but just will not kick!
After the car was sitting for two weeks it simply would not start so I removed the 2nd battery that gives me access to the Purge control unit..
I unplugged it but ran out of time so returned several days later, decided to plug it back in and the car started!!
So I cleaned the plug with contact cleaner and plugged it back in - to date its been fine.
 
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Hey guys,

So my cars a 2001, 330,000 miles, please help.

I’m sorry to ask again but I’m really confused.

The light is back on, runs rough from cold, over fueling ect, lots of smoke. Unplug and re plug in the orange plug at the Bolton, is that’s the TCV (timing control valve)? Please confirm.

But when the vehicle is running well, you wiggle the wiring and the engine note changes and the eml light comes on the dash.

Please can someone confirm which wiring / connectors are the troublesome ones, if that’s ok anyone with experience that would be great, as I’ve read so many threads ! Im now confused !

I’ve added photos !

Please help

Many thanks

Mike
 

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Yes the TCV plug is that nasty f*cked one on the bottom that’s highly like your problem. BTW all plugs are available new from Toyota.
 
Sounds like several different problems in this thread..
My issue appears to be different to most of you comments in that the motor is running fine.. when I can get it started!
Basically while driving if I hit big bumps the motor shuts down and often will not start - turns over fine but just will not kick!
After the car was sitting for two weeks it simply would not start so I removed the 2nd battery that gives me access to the Purge control unit..
I unplugged it but ran out of time so returned several days later, decided to plug it back in and the car started!!
So I cleaned the plug with contact cleaner and plugged it back in - to date its been fine.
Have you scanned for codes? That’s the first stop - not all faults trigger the light but do log a code. Historic codes are available.

It may actually be a red herring - unplugging and plugging it back in. EG that issues sounds a lot like the pedal switches disagreeing - the main pot saying it’s at idle but the idle micro switch not causes these symptoms. A lot of people follow Toyota’s statement that you need a new pedal but just pull the switch apart, clean and regrease (with dielectric grease)
 
Hi there, I am Mr. Speaker, I am having a problem with my 1HD-FTE, it starts and idles with a little missed fire, white smoke coming from the exhaust, when I try revving, it is weak and a lot of white smoke and missing. Fuel feed is check clean, intake is check. Please help. thanks.
 
Me Speaker

Did you happen to find the issue?
I’m currently having the same problems.
Thanks
 
So after two years the fault has returned

11 ohms at the spill valve, the orange one at the bottom right of the pump.

Fault, eml light and sounds like an Mis fire lots of smoke from cold start, drive the car fault comes and goes, light goes out on its own, back on full power, wiggle the wire engine note changes, I think the wiring has let go again to the orange plug spill valve.

I will read codes tonight and let you know what it says.
 
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