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The Cruiser won't start "CLICK"

Same here, car sat for a week and now all I get is a click. Charged both batteries overnight and still nothing.

No clue what to do!
If it's an auto, is it in N or P?

I know it's a daft one but I've missed it before.
Have been chasing random occasional "Click" in my Land Cruiser LJ70 for more than a month, left stranded suddenly in awkward places.

My LJ70 has a new starter motor, new battery and checked all wiring over and over.

Yesterday I had the "Click" at home - great occasion to get it diagnosed properly.

Bottom line: A Starter Relay with a bit worn / oxidized contacts.

Got to chance to shoot a video and put it on youtube as a testimony;

Original Toyota / Denso replacement relays (28300-17030) are Expen$ive;

Greece: € 155 EURO - Delivery in 2 months
Netherlands : € 204 EURO - Delivery next day
Germany : € 136 EURO - Delivery within few working days

I'll be looking for a 12 V relay elsewhere.


Just clean the contacts with fine emery Arno and bend the contacts gently so they meet properly and have a little more pressure on them. That should be ok for the next 100,000 km.

Thanks Rich, that worked for now.

At least I know the problem now :violin:

No starts like this in remote places or middle of the night....great fun :shock:

Just clean the contacts with fine emery Arno and bend the contacts gently so they meet properly and have a little more pressure on them. That should be ok for the next 100,000 km.

It should be a good fix Arno, if there isn't any real damage like the contacts completely burned through or softened through heating.

This is something that is pretty common and post office relays used to be set up in this way a long time ago.
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I have the starting problem and have been to the auto elec twice, will get a new starter relay, and is the 15 gauge wire from the battery to the relay?
You need to prove which part it is first Ken.
There are several possibles. If the starter solenoid clicks in and you can listen for this under the car, then it may be the series/parallel relay on the heavy battery cables or the solenoid contacts themselves which do burn out. The contacts are available cheaply on their own as a kit with the plunger if it pulls in, your solenoid coil is ok and in any case the solenoid cannot be replaced as a unit as it is parts fitted into a casing (80 series). You can test with a meter set to DC volts across the solenoid heavy contacts as the bolts emerge each side. If you get 12v at rest then 24v during a start attempt across them, the series parallel relay is ok and the starter solenoid contacts could be burned away. If 12v then nothing it could indicate the series parallel relay is faulty and the starter contacts are good. Starter contacts generally burn away long before the series/parallel relay shows any sign of problems.

Oh, and when you put the cover back on the rear of the starter solenoid, pop some low strength studlock on the screws won't you. :)
sounds like a bad case of parasitic draw going on

Check this out to help trace and resolve:

can some1 help me plz i hav a 1995 80 series petrol. i hav power to the starter motor but not to the starter moduil on the starter. wen turning the key all lights on the dash work but nothing else. no click checked all fuses but cant find the main 100amp fuse. can some1 point me in the rite direction plz
Hi, Do you have the part number for the 12/24V solenoid please? Thanks. It is a HZJ81 Diesel.
Keeping this thread alive because I experienced the same issue, but now fixed. Key would turn and click would sound, and I cleaned the relay and better than before. I no longer have the Check Engine light on, and the 94 Land Cruiser V6 runs quieter (used to roar). So I believe the starter relay also controls the computer for this model and hence fixing the Check Engine light and also car no longer smells like burning gas. For those who don't know where the Relay is, this video helped me:
For a 94 Land Cruiser the part number for the relay is: 909870200483
As stated Click no start got a rebuild kit from Roughtrax rebuilt solenoid tested before refitting and Click no start removed checked again all good refitted Click no start rechecked wiring fuses relays got the mechanic out he checked my work all good took starter for bench test all good fitted it once more LOW AND BEHOLD Click no start rechecked all and every fuse and relays now i got a lot of patience but im beginning to feel like someone is rubbing me up the wrong way with 40 grit so can someone please help me with this issue as think i might launch the bloody starter to keep that tesla company up in space and thanks very much in advance going to switch off now and get back to it tomorrow or might stay in bed and wait for a Wednesday in July

I have a hdj79r with the fte motor. Same clicking problem intermittently. If changed the starter motor, battery leads, solinoid wire. No difference.

Does this model have a starter relay. If so can somebody please let me know where it is

Rob hdj79
Wow! So a bun of people have had this infamous click no start issue. Me too! Though not every time it is more frequent lately.
1994 JDM Prado KZJ-78 with 3.0 kz-te motor. Battery good, checked cables and grounds all good. When I “wiggle“ the key and pray it will start (so far).
Makes me think an ignition switch problem. The KZJ has ignition switch #84450-60210 and it is verified as being discontinued.
Any ideas on a substitute switch? This is a three position type with glow plug then fire of course, and the button to release the key.
Thanks in advance.


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In my ten years on the forum I've seen more people have the issue with the starter solenoid contacts wearing out than any trouble with the ignition switch. It's the first thing I'd check. These were mine.


Replacement parts were 15 GBP a few years ago.
A reputable local mechanic said I need a new starter, genuine Toyota starter #28100-67020 is $1400 out of Japan!! Does anyone have any experience with “Blue Print”? It is half the price, some guys on another Japanese car forum (Supra) seem to like them. I wanted to by a Lucas new part, but Autodoc doesn’t ship to the U. S.
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Do you know what is wrong with the starter? Maybe there is an opportunity to rebuilding it / having it rebuilt?
Do you know what is wrong with the starter? Maybe there is an opportunity to rebuilding it / having it rebuilt?
He said he sees the click stuff all the time and it’s usually a starter he said. Never worked on these of course. I am inclined to believe MODVRS above that the solenoid could be bad. Or I increasingly wonder about the starter relay as there is a ton of stuff on the net of this easy fix to the click mystery. Where the hell is the starter relay on a KZJ78? Anyone know? there is no black box near the single battery. But a wire does come off the terminal and go to a device kinda in the firewall.
By the way fellas, have you seen the price of an OEM Toyota starter (28100-67020)? $1400! If I pay a shop to remove the starter I might as well have a brand new one for piece of mind I think, then play with rebuilding the solenoid on my own. I frankly don’t have the garage or wherewithal to remove it myself I reckon.
I want to do the relay first though if anyone knows where it is…