Beau
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2011
- Messages
- 2,014
- Country Flag
So if you've been following my separate thread, you'll know my cruiser overheated and then it wouldn't start back. Traced the problem down to the spill control valve (Again). I have one on the way but just out of boredom and my understanding of things I thought why not see if I can fix it...
I've tested the valve at home and it's reading 2.2ohms, just outside the regular 1-2ohm reading. I'm thinking when she overheated the coils inside the valve must have burned up or the coil sheeting deteriorated? However, I've also tested the valve directly with 12 Volts, for a millisecond multiple times and it clicks. However I assume it's working like this because it has the available draw off the battery compared to the wires it connects to.
It's my understanding that higher resistance (ohms), less volts gets pulled meaning there is a lack of power for the solenoid to work, correct? If this is true, Can I use a resistor in order to reduce the ohms of the overall circuit within the 1-2ohm range and test it? Will this work? From research, adding a resistor in a parallel circuit reduces the resistance unlike when you run it in series, right?
Any electricians out there who can help me out and confirm my thinking.... I don't want to jump the gun and do it yet, as the negative terminal on the circuit runs back to the ECU and so I don't want to fry anything before knowing it's safe and plausible.
I've also oppened up the valve and cleaned everything up so the plunger and pieces inside are working smoothly. This time I took pics for you all, will upload them soon!
P.S - If anyone has a 1KZT Mechanical Injection Pump laying around, send me a PM!
I've tested the valve at home and it's reading 2.2ohms, just outside the regular 1-2ohm reading. I'm thinking when she overheated the coils inside the valve must have burned up or the coil sheeting deteriorated? However, I've also tested the valve directly with 12 Volts, for a millisecond multiple times and it clicks. However I assume it's working like this because it has the available draw off the battery compared to the wires it connects to.
It's my understanding that higher resistance (ohms), less volts gets pulled meaning there is a lack of power for the solenoid to work, correct? If this is true, Can I use a resistor in order to reduce the ohms of the overall circuit within the 1-2ohm range and test it? Will this work? From research, adding a resistor in a parallel circuit reduces the resistance unlike when you run it in series, right?
Any electricians out there who can help me out and confirm my thinking.... I don't want to jump the gun and do it yet, as the negative terminal on the circuit runs back to the ECU and so I don't want to fry anything before knowing it's safe and plausible.
I've also oppened up the valve and cleaned everything up so the plunger and pieces inside are working smoothly. This time I took pics for you all, will upload them soon!
P.S - If anyone has a 1KZT Mechanical Injection Pump laying around, send me a PM!