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Timing belt change

DH.120

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Apr 12, 2020
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england
Okay, so on my way back from recent Croatia trip the Timing Belt light came on - thought it was due round about now so no surprise there.
Been watching a few YouTube’s and it looks like it can be quite fiddly to do, or is it?

Question 1 is should I order belt, tensioner & water pump and then get a garage to do it, or is it a one man at home on the drive job?

Question 2 is should I get parts direct from Mr T, or do you use anywhere else? I feel it’s kind of an important part!!
 
I must admit I haven't done it, but it looks like a fairly straightforward job on these (as they go).

The water pump isnt linked to the timing belt on these, but it might be worth doing at the same time if it hasnt been done before. Its either an easy job or a bugger depending if your existing water pump is one or two pieces - the newer ones have a backing plate and you only have to replace the front bit.

I got a kit from RT (genuine parts) - mine isnt due yet but I have to replace the cam seal at some point so thought I might as well put a new belt in while its all off.
 
Dave, I've been looking at mine recently and at fourby4diesel, on youtube although not due yet
Nothing that frightens me, but obviously care has to be taken, and as usual some good tips on there for belt replacement and 120 work in general
Karl recently told me about the two piece water pump, whether its the 1 or 2 piece I would change whatever while in that far.
Definately R/T as Karl and the whole replacement kit.
 
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I think this is defo achievable as a DIY job, and intend to do mine when it's due. Worth changing the water pump and tentioner whilst there as it's a 90k miles service thing.
 
Thanks for all the replies, getting a little confused with the water pump though as you can get front only

Aisin Engine Water Pump Without Rear Cast Housing

Or a “complete” one

One Piece Aisin Engine Water Pump With Cast Housing

From what I have read it appears that the cast housing is not usually required as does not fail, anyone able she’d any light on this and confirm if that is correct? Only about £13 difference in price, but - obviously- want to ensure I get the correct part, don’t want to take off belt, tensioner, and then realise can’t continue, or skimp on £13 and have an issue further down he line.

For completeness believe this is the belt needed

Genuine Toyota Cam Timing Belt Kit - 1KDFTV & 2KDFTV Engines
 
Did mine, wish all engines were like this, the only cambelt approaching these for ease i've come across was a Volvo 244.

Proper timing marks, none of that engine locking kit cobblers (to frighten the punters into paying large numbers of notes to the main dealer), if you have a set of sockets and allen sockets you're done, but, suggest if you haven't one invest in a small torque wrench because the two bolts holding the tensioner on are going straight into the alloy front casting.
I changed the auxilliary drive belt at the same time, though it doesn't need to come off to change out the cambelt.

I seem to recall undoing the plastic fan guard to give a bot more room and might have taken the fan itself off too, but can't remember now, think it made swapping the auxilliary belt easier.
First time might take you a couple of hours as you feel your way round but once you've done it an hour tops.

I didn't change the water pump, if the motor (and i) are still here when it needs doing again will do so then.
 
Yep thats the same timing belt kit I bought!

Water pump - it depends what you have fitted at the moment. If your existing pump has a backplate 'built in' (ie. non removable), then you'll need to fit the new backplate as well; otherwise you'll only need the front bit. Not sure how easy it is to tell which type you have, but if you buy the one with the backplate, worst case you've spent £13 extra and got a spare - at least you won't be off the road!
 
PS when I changed my fan belt (sounded like a mouse had taken residence) I didn't take the fan guard/fan off and still had enough room. Just make sure you get a decent breaker bar on there to shift the tensioner!

I think if I was doing the water pump and timing belt though I'd take it off - more room, why make life harder!

Agree with whats been said before - these are good vehicles to work on in terms of access!
 
Is it easy enough to differentiate which of the pumps you need?
I need to get this all done this month but outsourcing it to a mechanic and I'm supplying the bits.
 
Just buy the two piece pump, the one with the backing plate, as thats the one you'll want to have fitted anyway. (ie even if the old one is one piece, you'll want to upgrade to two piece so its an easier job next time!).

Best case your mechanic can use the existing backing plate if you've already got the two piece fitted!
 
This is definitely a diy job (done it twice) but unlike many engines the water pump is not driven by this belt. It only drives the camshaft. My 120 has the water pump it left the factory with 250,000 km ago and I see no reason to change it while doing a timing belt.
 
Iirc the fsm says to change the water pump at the same time as the belt. They are both rated to the same service life.

But do check the fsm. I maybe misremembering from the 105
 
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