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Tips for a new owner

craig4568

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Joined
Feb 13, 2022
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scotland
Any tips for a newbie ive just bought a 90 series Colorado it’s in good nick apart from a slack handbrake and a small weld on the axel is needed as some diff oil is leaking out not bad for 26 years old I work for toyota in sales so I have some technical help from the guys in the workshop what should I look for to make sure this car is in top condition as it’s going in for a full service next week
 
Diff leak quite common on ones that age. The casing seems to go porous. As for the handbrake, there is a section in the 80 forum called 'stickies' in there you'll find a post about handbrakes. It's the same as the 80 basically. They're not difficult to set up correctly but it has to be done right and just tightening the cable isn't the way. I'm in Chesterfield so happy to give you some pointers if you want any.
The othere thing to look for is corrosion in the control arm mounts on the top of the axle.
 
It’s in good condition the guys at work seem to think it’s strong and a good buy I only paid 3.5k for it’s so I’m happy they seemed to think it was good value for money as I don’t need to spend too much to get it right well for now anyway lol
 
Lol I work for toyota the boys are fine I was planning on changing all the fluids next week on the service
 
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Drain holes at the bottom of the sills and the base of the control arm turrets (to front and to back of each turret) on the back axle... make sure they're all clear. I drilled the turret holes a bit wider. They're too small otherwise and simply clog up with mud, meaning your truck just carries round its own little reservoir of rust juice.
 
Manual or auto ?

The latter has a nasty habit of mixing coolant with gearbox oil when the radiator rots on the inside because it cools both .

Regardless removing the radiator for a clean is never a bad thing , the ac condenser is mounted so close to the radiator that you would never know what crud builds up between them .

It was shocking to see on removing my manuals radiator that after all my efforts with a power washer that there was quite literally a carpet of i don't know what between them .
 
Ok guys how do I get more mpg I’m currently getting 16mpg surely I can do better I’m up for anything
 
o_O should be 20 something though i have no idea if its a petrol?

Air pressure in tyres makes a big difference .
 
the air pressure is fine what would you recommend it is a 3.4 petrol is there a tuning option and a chip I can buy ??
 
Even 3.4 petrol I'd expect you to be in the twenties - is it stock?
 
Ok guys how do I get more mpg I’m currently getting 16mpg surely I can do better I’m up for anything

If you're doing short journeys from cold 16's about right. I've been running a low mileage one for a while and as I do save it for longer runs where it will achieve about 23 whereas general knocking about it averages 19.
 
Yep, short journeys and town driving your looking at 16-19mpg at best. Get it on s motorway run and stay under 70mph and you will get 22-23mpg.

My 90 (3.4 5VZ-FE) has been consistent for nearly 20 years of ownership.

Change the oil, spark plugs, clean the MAF and check the HT leads - if they are the originals change them too.
 
Check for corrosion of the rear heater pipes. The original steel pipes often rust through. You could renew them or replace with rubber hoses. Alternatively, remove the pipes altogether and cap off the T-fittings if you don’t need a rear heater. There are a few threads on that subject already, with pictures etc. Welcome to the forum.
 
I have been logging fuel consumption on my 5VZ 3.4 petrol (auto tranny) for the last year or so. It does an average of 16.3l/100km (17.3mpg(imp)). That's about 80% city 20% long distance, though the long distance is usually with a 1 ton trailer. It's still the original engine and has just over 394000km on it. Plugs and wires are well worth doing as are the ignition coil boots (you can import them from the USA).
 
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