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Tow bar electrics advice needed

bones

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May 23, 2021
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I have a tow bar and tow bar kit but I am not sure about the electric side of things, kit came with a little black box and the plug assembly .
Instructions are a bit vague and I have no idea where abouts I should be joining the harness, I presume the left hand rear corner area? Also if anyone can fill me in on wire colours that would help loads.
 
Answered in your other post Bones. Should be a simple wiring colour coded wiring diagram with the kit, if not easy to find one on Gurgle. Jack cubby is Toyota place for fitment.
 
Also if you have not seen this thread, put a post in there with your details and get the full workshop manual from Simon

 
I spotted a company that do plug in kits but 171 plus vat! I don't think I'll be going down that route just yet. I have the workshop manual from Simon already but find it a hard to find things. And some of the wiring pdf's won't open, it just says refresh but won't do anything.
 
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As said in other post ££££ for toyota harness. Once you have the colours and positions in tow socket as above, its quite simple. You'll get there ! I'll see if I've got instructions in the garage tomorrow.
 
Tractionman your not wrong! very expensive. That would be great if you have some more info for me. I am cleaning up the rear chassis tomorrow and painting before fitting my tow bar plus I am making a strengthening brace too for it. Thanks..
 
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I'm assuming you have the single black 7 pin 12n towing socket for road lights/indicators etc.
 
Maybe you can post a pic or a link to what kit you've got, so we can see if it makes sense to us!
 
Ok bones.
Looking from the back of the socket, starting at 12 o clock position and working clockwise, these are stamped with numbers/letters (small)
1. (L) yellow l/h indicator
2. (54g) blue rear f/lights
3. (31) white earth, usually the thickest one
4. (R) green r/h indicator
5. (58r brown r/h tail, no. plate.
6 (54) red stop lights
7. (58l) black l/h tail, no. plate. This is the one right in the centre.
You will obviously have to run cable across the rear to pick up left and right, unless it's already in jack cubby ready to pick up, my 120 already had the towing loom with towbar, and all the connections were in there.
Don't forget the Toyota colours might not be the same as the standard wiring code above, you may have to get out multimeter to find correct wires from rear light units.
If you want more help come back, there are many of us with towbar, or if you can, as karl2000 says, post a pic. I dunno how to do all that malarky.
 
I'm struggling to picture what you got , maybe because i just woke , but i hate electrickery so when i removed my towbar for painting and the socket fell to bits I had that same sinking feeling seeing so many wires that did i don't know what .

I guess i must have got drunk before a new socket arrived in the post and in that moment of clarity I realized there is only one live wire (heavier) and all the rest are neutral .

So just hook up the live and touch each of the remaining wires one at a time to each possible point of connection and see what lights up .

It won't fry you or cause any damage , they are all the same bulbs . Its boring trial and error .
 
Shayne, there is no single live wire in 12n electrics, each function, e.g. lights/ indicators is powered from the cars electrics. 12s electrics have a thicker red power wire for charging aux. battery or running fridge.
 
Tow socket the one in the middle is thicker wire , thats about the only clue i had to work with .
 
Okay thanks guys I'll have a look once I get into it, I need to get my tow bar brace made and rear crossmember cleaned up and painted first.
 
Still no single live wire in there, all functions powered from car, as said.
The instructions above are copied from manufacturers wiring instructions and are standard wiring for towing electrics.
 
Can't argue about stuff i don't even pretend to understand so i'm just giving insight into how i simplify it .

Power always runs to the socket hence we get all sorts of weird and wonderful christmas tree lights when the socket corrodes and shorts out . Stork switches etc complete the circuit or not on/off .

Once i got that in my head i put a brick on the brake pedal and found the 2 wires that light it up . The only error i made after that was having indicate left at the stalk flashing right at the rear , because i was on my own so had hazard lights switched on to help me identify which wires ran indicators .

I suppose that one crucial wire could be neutral and the rest live but the principal remains the same .
 
Don't forget to have the ignition/side lights on when you test otherwise you'll not register anything on a meter (except maybe 0v) just saying :think: :thumbup: good luck
 
Yep, good point Mick, and with ignition on and the appropriate function selected, that feeds in the power to socket as appropriate. It doesnt come from one single live wire as Shayne indicates.
The Xmas tree effect is usually caused by corrosion as stated, but that is when indicators, lights, brakes etc are powered on and shorts are caused. There is no position in the wiring code for a single live wire, there is no need when power is transmitted to/through socket when the function is selected. The brake, indicator, or light switch switch powers the socket on.
Yes, people do wire these to their own ideas, and as long as their own plug and socket is wired the same, their own trailer is fine. Problems then occur when towing another trailer that is wired to code.
 
I suppose that one crucial wire could be neutral and the rest live but the principal remains the same

I think that's it - even if theyre switched around on an ordinary (non LED) bulb it will still work
 
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