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Toyota Land Cruiser Prado TX 1997

laszlo szucs

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great_britain
hello everyone

KZJ95W-GKPST

my name is Laszlo. im new.

questions:

-where can i find VIN number on my Prado?
-please take a look of video and tell me should i invest time and money on this car...or too late?
-TX. so what engine i have?


Thanks very much for any help or advice. My plans are big.. i just need a right cruiser.
 
It's a 1kz-te factory intercooled and in my view the best engine the 90 series got . As for the rest it looks a good honest truck right up to the typically broken centre console lid . Depending on price a good buy if it drives well , uneven tyre where at the rear suggests trailing arm and panhard bushes need replaced but at this age most bushes will be due replacement . The rust is of no concern if you intend to treat it soon . other than that i've an inckling UJ's might need replaced but i'm not sure why i think that ?

The 1kz's weak point is cooling so if you buy it you should plan to remove the radiator for inspection , with luck a good clean new fluid and a new thermostat will make it good for many miles to come .

Depending on your mechanical skills you might spend a grand on it making it good for years to come , but as and when you please if the engine is good .
 
And is the number plate for sale ............... i would love to see the mrs reaction if i put that on her truck :laughing-rolling:
 
And is the number plate for sale ............... i would love to see the mrs reaction if i put that on her truck :laughing-rolling:

our reg plate is B11 MLF which we don't like at all because we like to be simple. yes, we want to sale it, or trade to Landcruiser parts, since we need a loads of new parts.

if anybody can tell me where is a VIN number located on the car? cause earlier MOT papers showing a 12 digit number. wrong? no clue.
 
I think its on the plate under the bonnet , drivers side where windscreen wiper is .
 
It's a 1kz-te factory intercooled and in my view the best engine the 90 series got . As for the rest it looks a good honest truck right up to the typically broken centre console lid . Depending on price a good buy if it drives well , uneven tyre where at the rear suggests trailing arm and panhard bushes need replaced but at this age most bushes will be due replacement . The rust is of no concern if you intend to treat it soon . other than that i've an inckling UJ's might need replaced but i'm not sure why i think that ?

The 1kz's weak point is cooling so if you buy it you should plan to remove the radiator for inspection , with luck a good clean new fluid and a new thermostat will make it good for many miles to come .

Depending on your mechanical skills you might spend a grand on it making it good for years to come , but as and when you please if the engine is good .


thanks for your advice...and if you really have time to tell me exactly step by step what would you do with this car, i would appreciate 100%.

car will travel long distance in the summer. with kids on board.

thanks
 
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I suppose i would start with changing all the fluids this might help https://www.roughtrax4x4.com/blog/land-cruiser-kzj90-kzj95-1996-2002-vehicle-specifications/ make sure you can get the filler plug open before you drain anything .

Roughtrax will also sell most everything else you need , removing and cleaning the radiator should be your first job especially if you have aircon , the mat of dust and whatnot between my a/c condensor and my radiator was shocking when i removed mine but it sit there unseen because they are so close together .

Then i think fitting these https://www.roughtrax4x4.com/nolathane-rear-trailing-arms-panhard-rod-bush-kit-7438.html because you need at least one new tyre if not more so fix whats causing the uneven wear first .

With that done i would expect the truck to take you on a 5000 mile round trip without trouble so what follows is really down to how long you hope to own the truck .

If you plan to make a project of it then everything you see here likely wants to be replaced https://www.roughtrax4x4.com/search/bush/ and of course you need to address the rust .

In my view the best way to do that is as you go , every time you take something apart go at things with a wire brush or whatever then coat it with this https://www.frost.co.uk/zinga-zinc-coating-500ml-aerosol/ followed by this https://www.frost.co.uk/eastwood-extreme-chassis-black-satin-397g/ but others just take the truck to be treated by someone else like http://krown.co.uk/uk/krown_application/Rust_treatment_process or similar places that use Dinitrol , or wax oil or whatever its personal choice and depends on budget .

The brakes might feel fine but its almost certain they will be a lot better if you overhaul the calipers for the price most of us are happy to send ours here http://biggred.co.uk

Something else i do but many might disagree with when an old truck becomes mine is to add stuff like this https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/wynn...MItbG874Of6AIVQuDtCh2W_AA9EAQYASABEgLU9vD_BwE to steering and this https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1405891595...MIwZ-vioSf6AIVGp3VCh1CgwWCEAQYAyABEgIqwPD_BwE to diffs , theres also gearbox additives . My thinking is why wait for leaks and then repair them when these things can repair leaks and give old seals a new lease on life .
 
I suppose i would start with changing all the fluids this might help https://www.roughtrax4x4.com/blog/land-cruiser-kzj90-kzj95-1996-2002-vehicle-specifications/ make sure you can get the filler plug open before you drain anything .

Roughtrax will also sell most everything else you need , removing and cleaning the radiator should be your first job especially if you have aircon , the mat of dust and whatnot between my a/c condensor and my radiator was shocking when i removed mine but it sit there unseen because they are so close together .

Then i think fitting these https://www.roughtrax4x4.com/nolathane-rear-trailing-arms-panhard-rod-bush-kit-7438.html because you need at least one new tyre if not more so fix whats causing the uneven wear first .

With that done i would expect the truck to take you on a 5000 mile round trip without trouble so what follows is really down to how long you hope to own the truck .

If you plan to make a project of it then everything you see here likely wants to be replaced https://www.roughtrax4x4.com/search/bush/ and of course you need to address the rust .

In my view the best way to do that is as you go , every time you take something apart go at things with a wire brush or whatever then coat it with this https://www.frost.co.uk/zinga-zinc-coating-500ml-aerosol/ followed by this https://www.frost.co.uk/eastwood-extreme-chassis-black-satin-397g/ but others just take the truck to be treated by someone else like http://krown.co.uk/uk/krown_application/Rust_treatment_process or similar places that use Dinitrol , or wax oil or whatever its personal choice and depends on budget .

The brakes might feel fine but its almost certain they will be a lot better if you overhaul the calipers for the price most of us are happy to send ours here http://biggred.co.uk

Something else i do but many might disagree with when an old truck becomes mine is to add stuff like this https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/wynn...MItbG874Of6AIVQuDtCh2W_AA9EAQYASABEgLU9vD_BwE to steering and this https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1405891595...MIwZ-vioSf6AIVGp3VCh1CgwWCEAQYAyABEgIqwPD_BwE to diffs , theres also gearbox additives . My thinking is why wait for leaks and then repair them when these things can repair leaks and give old seals a new lease on life .

THANKS VERY MUCH, my excellent mechanic saw the car today. project is starting be a list im making...mostly from your advice.

i have a question.......you said: "If you plan to make a project of it then everything you see here likely wants to be replaced https://www.roughtrax4x4.com/search/bush/ "

did you mean all? or just first page?

thanks
 
Right i just put kzj95 in as my vehicle wrote bush as my search criteria and posted the result .

Its senseless to say they all need changing its just obvious all are likely near 20 years old and made of rubber , your going to drive the truck not restore it for a museum so i was just giving you an idea of what to look at and where .

The current owner might well keep driving that truck as is for another 5 years only fixing stuff when the m.o.t man says she (the milf) has to .

Toyota's are strong so what you need to do and what you want to do are two very different things , i'm pretty sure i've changed everything on all 3 pages but i've owned my 90 for 8 years and its in better condition now than it was when i bought it .

Just watched the vid again and i have to say there is no definite evidence anything at all needs to be replaced so you can't make a list until you know the truck .

Removing the radiator is the only way to clean it properly , and its an auto so you should be made aware that gearbox oil runs separately through the bottom of the rad and rot has been known to let gear oil and coolant mix . Other than that something must be done about the rust before it takes hold , it just makes sense to me to renew stuff as you take things apart to clean up the rust .

There is no set plan time and budget dictates how we all proceed .

This is me messing with mine 5 years after i bought the truck , i wish now i'd used the products i suggested to you https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/kzj90-first-used-may-12th-1998.148004/
 
How many miles/km? Worn bushings are common after this long, plus you do need to keep an eye on lower ball joints if it's done in the region of 300,000km+. Apologies if you mention this in the video, haven't yet watched this.

Mine is a 2000 model VZJ95R, with 382kkm on the clock. I've had it for a year and have done:
- lower control arm and lower ball joint replacement
- full fluid change
- full filter change (air/fuel/cabin)
- replaced towbar (original one's hitch was rusted solid into the receiver)
- replaced towbar wiring
- replaced headlamp protectors
- replaced windscreen (thanks to a massive chip on motorway)
- replaced alternator brushes
- replaced 1 split PCV hose (the other was fine)
- MAF cleanout
- added reversing camera
- added electric brake controller (my camper trailer has electric brakes so needed for that)
- transmission service due to first place messing up the gasket and it leaking ATF all over my trailer
- replaced transmission lever bushes (not causing problems but was very loose)
- deleted radiator transmission cooler (I am s$(%scared of pink milkshake)
- added external transmission cooler
- 6 month engine oil change/filter clean

Almost time for its 12 month service :) Still to do is the rocker cover gaskets which are seeping a tiny bit but not a big deal.
 
Right i just put kzj95 in as my vehicle wrote bush as my search criteria and posted the result .

Its senseless to say they all need changing its just obvious all are likely near 20 years old and made of rubber , your going to drive the truck not restore it for a museum so i was just giving you an idea of what to look at and where .

The current owner might well keep driving that truck as is for another 5 years only fixing stuff when the m.o.t man says she (the milf) has to .

Toyota's are strong so what you need to do and what you want to do are two very different things , i'm pretty sure i've changed everything on all 3 pages but i've owned my 90 for 8 years and its in better condition now than it was when i bought it .

Just watched the vid again and i have to say there is no definite evidence anything at all needs to be replaced so you can't make a list until you know the truck .

Removing the radiator is the only way to clean it properly , and its an auto so you should be made aware that gearbox oil runs separately through the bottom of the rad and rot has been known to let gear oil and coolant mix . Other than that something must be done about the rust before it takes hold , it just makes sense to me to renew stuff as you take things apart to clean up the rust .

There is no set plan time and budget dictates how we all proceed .

This is me messing with mine 5 years after i bought the truck , i wish now i'd used the products i suggested to you https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/kzj90-first-used-may-12th-1998.148004/

the car will be kept i hope forever. im 47 years old and i was always dreaming of a 4x4 "motorhome", reliable travelling etc etc.

my mechanic is good (Brighton) but i need to demand changes, because he believes "all good like this". i don't. i want to give the best for my baby.

at this point i need to give him everything i want to change in writing. a list. and thats what im doing.
also im learning a lot, since these things are 100% new to my ear, im a professional private chef, not a mechanic.

im very very pleased of any of your help. i need a good list.... like for example: if he takes off my radiator what else he should change?

i want to be ahead of any failures, i want rust free, i want to change things not when is faulty, more likely when part served enough time and possibly goes bad soon.

THANKS
 
How many miles/km? Worn bushings are common after this long, plus you do need to keep an eye on lower ball joints if it's done in the region of 300,000km+. Apologies if you mention this in the video, haven't yet watched this.

Mine is a 2000 model VZJ95R, with 382kkm on the clock. I've had it for a year and have done:
- lower control arm and lower ball joint replacement
- full fluid change
- full filter change (air/fuel/cabin)
- replaced towbar (original one's hitch was rusted solid into the receiver)
- replaced towbar wiring
- replaced headlamp protectors
- replaced windscreen (thanks to a massive chip on motorway)
- replaced alternator brushes
- replaced 1 split PCV hose (the other was fine)
- MAF cleanout
- added reversing camera
- added electric brake controller (my camper trailer has electric brakes so needed for that)
- transmission service due to first place messing up the gasket and it leaking ATF all over my trailer
- replaced transmission lever bushes (not causing problems but was very loose)
- deleted radiator transmission cooler (I am s$(%scared of pink milkshake)
- added external transmission cooler
- 6 month engine oil change/filter clean

Almost time for its 12 month service :) Still to do is the rocker cover gaskets which are seeping a tiny bit but not a big deal.

thanks! i will melt this information into my project list.

i see 2 target points:

a. / "under the hood" work. this will include radiator cleaning and thermostat change. what else?? (those old tubes?)

b./ suspension, under the car work.
here i heard joints, fuids, grease driveshaft.

anyways i will post my current list.

but its a mess, need time to enter all new info:
------------------------------------------

"project Saeed Prado KZJ95"

Roughtrax will also sell most everything else you need.


FLUIDS:


Engine 1KZTE

7.7 Litres

SAE 5W-40


Transmission Automatic

Drain sump only 2.0 Litres

ATF Dextron 11, 111, Type 4 (T-IV)


Transfer Box:

1.2 Litres

SAE 75W-90


Front Axle:

Standard1.1 Litres

SAE 80W-90


Limited Slip Differential (L.S.D)

2.6 Litres

Hypoy LSD 90

(Front differential oil - Rear differential oil)



Power Steering:

0.8 Litre

Dextron 11/111


Coolant:

9.5 Litres

RED Long Life Coolant


Brakes:

1.2 Litres

SAE J1703/4 DOT 3 or 4


Clutch:

SAE J1703/4 DOT 3 or 4


Prop Shaft UJ's

Lithium base - NLGI No. 2


Air Conditioning Refrigerant

R134a

Qty - Check with Toyota


‐----------------------


-Diesel Filter

-Prop shafts - grease driveshaft. (6 places):


-removing and cleaning the radiator (with other necessary inspections) (mat of dust and whatnot between a/c condensor and radiator)

-lower and upper ball joint (change)

-rear trailing arms & panhard rod bush


Add these:

-Wynns Power Steering Stop Leak 125ml

-Wynn's Gear Oil Treatment With Stop Leak 125ml

https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/wynn...MItbG874Of6AIVQuDtCh2W_AA9EAQYASABEgLU9vD_BwE


https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1405891595...MIwZ-vioSf6AIVGp3VCh1CgwWCEAQYAyABEgIqwPD_BwE

----------------------

-Fitting Nolathane Rear Trailing Arms & Panhard Rod Bush Kit

(£110 with VAT)

https://www.roughtrax4x4.com/nolathane-rear-trailing-arms-panhard-rod-bush-kit-7438.html

Kit has 8 Rear Trailing Arm bushes - Polyurethane bushes for both Upper & Lower arms &2 Rear Panhard Rod Bushes with all the bush sleeves

Worn rear trailing arm bushings have a huge influence on vehicle stability and braking efficiency.


RUST:


coat:

Zinga Cold Galvanising System – Anti Rust / Corrosion Zinc Coating (500ml)

https://www.frost.co.uk/zinga-zinc-coating-500ml-aerosol/


followed by


Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black SATIN (397g)

https://www.frost.co.uk/eastwood-extreme-chassis-black-satin-397g/


----------------
 
How many miles/km? Worn bushings are common after this long, plus you do need to keep an eye on lower ball joints if it's done in the region of 300,000km+. Apologies if you mention this in the video, haven't yet watched this.

Mine is a 2000 model VZJ95R, with 382kkm on the clock. I've had it for a year and have done:
- lower control arm and lower ball joint replacement
- full fluid change
- full filter change (air/fuel/cabin)
- replaced towbar (original one's hitch was rusted solid into the receiver)
- replaced towbar wiring
- replaced headlamp protectors
- replaced windscreen (thanks to a massive chip on motorway)
- replaced alternator brushes
- replaced 1 split PCV hose (the other was fine)
- MAF cleanout
- added reversing camera
- added electric brake controller (my camper trailer has electric brakes so needed for that)
- transmission service due to first place messing up the gasket and it leaking ATF all over my trailer
- replaced transmission lever bushes (not causing problems but was very loose)
- deleted radiator transmission cooler (I am s$(%scared of pink milkshake)
- added external transmission cooler
- 6 month engine oil change/filter clean

Almost time for its 12 month service :) Still to do is the rocker cover gaskets which are seeping a tiny bit but not a big deal.
AW was it easy to install/add the external transmission cooler? Did you have to modify the existing radiator in any way or just reroute the pipes? Thanks
 
Only benefits looking at your throttle body when you get it open will show you why , and its a fiddly job but not a big one just stick a blocking plate in , i will try to find a photo .
 
AW was it easy to install/add the external transmission cooler? Did you have to modify the existing radiator in any way or just reroute the pipes? Thanks
TBH I got a transmission shop to do it but it's an easy job, you probably need longer hoses or to lengthen the existing ones but mounting the cooler is fairly simple, it just attached to the AC evaporator.

No modifications to the radiator needed, aside from blocking off the unused transmission connections.

If you are interested I can take some pics. Also if you are considering it do look into the best way for your needs. There's positives and negatives to deleting the radiator connections, and some say your should keep the radiator in the loop to aid in warming the transmission from cold.
 
A cooler wether it be for water or oil is just a glorified pipe , nothing technical about it just find somewhere to mount it and connect pipes to that instead of your radiator .
 
A cooler wether it be for water or oil is just a glorified pipe , nothing technical about it just find somewhere to mount it and connect pipes to that instead of your radiator .
Such wisdom Shayne.
 
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