Turbo Boost Issues

Dervis Garip

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Right guys those that have followed my thread relating to the a top mount intercooler and custom exhaust will know I've been looking to up boost to accommodate these upgrades.

Things started to go wrong firstly when the wastage arm came loose not enabling the turbo to open and boost the engine. These was a quick fix thankfully. Having the boost gauge now enabled me to really see how the boost preforms to reveal the next issue being the boost wouldn't boost on normal load more that 0.5 bar then max's out at 0.7 bar only.

Having an aftermarket turbo the wastage was taken off and in advance I ordered a higher boost spring being 1.0 bar on normal load. My turbo gauge ordered is only for 1.5 bar (14.7psi) specifically because I know the boost light comes on above 14 psi and wanted to keep the manifold temps down whilst I know more boost with this turbo wouldn't yield any more power with this turbo.

Old green spring 0.8 bar
Newer Yellow 1.0 bar

IMG_5769.jpg IMG_5766.jpg
 
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Dervis Garip

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I tried the 1.0 bar newer yellow spring and didn't make a difference and so Kinugawa in Taiwan sent me three more springs to try out being 1.2, 1.5, 2.0 bar.

Upon taking the waste gate apart the second time noticeability the diaphragm looks worst for wear so I didn't use the other springs and so used a ct26 waste gate to verify the issue for certain.

Using the temporary waste gate the vehicle now boosts easily over 1.0 bar and exceeds 1.5 bar to bring the over boost warning light on. So at this stage I'm thankful to be making progress and will talk to my mechanic to see how to reduce the boost and cap it under 14 psi max while a new diaphragm is ordered.

IMG_5771.jpg IMG_5770.jpg
 
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Shayne

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That's an adjustable actuator :icon-cool: just put the strongest spring in to prevent wastegate creep and tighten/loosen the threaded end to adjust boost pressure , the shorter the actuator the higher the boost will go .
 
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Dervis Garip

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Guys with great sadness after some testing with the alternative turbo waste gate had a puff of white smoke and now a constant rattle in the turbo. :cry:

Spoken to my mechanic and first impressions are not good almost certain having to source another turbo now!!

Whats even more surprising is only covered some 150,000km in the six years so upon the change over going to investigate this soon.

 

chapel gate

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Guys with great sadness after some testing with the alternative turbo waste gate had a puff of white smoke and now a constant rattle in the turbo. :cry:

Spoken to my mechanic and first impressions are not good almost certain having to source another turbo now!!

Whats even more surprising is only covered some 150,000km in the six years so upon the change over going to investigate this soon.

Thats sad news dervis.

I dont quite understand why your adjusting the actuator if you have a boost controller.
 

Dervis Garip

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Thats sad news dervis.

I dont quite understand why your adjusting the actuator if you have a boost controller.
After adding a boost gauge and upgrading to a intercooler and larger exhaust Mike I noticed the turbo was running lower than normal boost being around 0.8 bar on factory settings so in my investigation to get to the bottom of this the waste gate on the turbo was the issue.

In changing this temporary now the turbo running higher boost has failed most noticeably being bad luck.....I'm not sure but clearly the turbo couldn't handle higher boost pressures even though there were not that high.

My intention Mike was only to up the boost to benefit from the mods and in the process then turbo failed sadly.
 

Shayne

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I would prefer an adjustable actuator over a boost controller but both work in exactly the same way by using a spring to lock pressure in until the strength of the spring is overcome .

It's a mute point anyway I wound not be buying a new turbo when the rattle could possibly be caused by your having the wrong actuator fitted .

The wastgate is just a a hinged door seen here top left .

upload_2017-9-30_12-16-1.jpeg


with no actuator fitted that door would remain open and you would have no boost because pressure couldn't build inside the turbo .

The mushroom head , the bit that's broke on your adjustable actuator is a boost controller what makes it an actuator is that it is connected to the wastegate with an arm and it's the length of that arm that ultimately decides boost .
A weak spring means you will have to make the arm a little shorter to keep the door shut and with a strong spring the arm will have to be a little longer .

As you now have what is very likely to be a much stronger turbo with Toyota's own non-adjustable actuator trying to keep the gate closed it''s possible the gate is rattling because the actuator arm is too long .

I can't hear the vid because i'm deaf but i imagine at a set revs the rattle would be uniform rather than random if it was caused by the gate .

I don't know about the white smoke but right now i would see it as a curve ball distracting from the real issue possibly caused by water collecting in the intercooler as a result of the constant start up/shut down typical of all such investigations .
 

Dervis Garip

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Hi Shayne the white cloud of smoke apparently I'm told is the oil in the turbo thats leaking out and burning being that its failed.

The turbo noise whilst driving rattles where as it didn't before. For now it drives ok but my mechanic said not to drive it much because its only going to get worse for sure and is every time I drive it more so.

Next week going to drive it to the city some 45 miles and leave it there whilst we investigate the issue and most likely source another turbo.

He normally has turbos in stock but currently still waiting on a shipment so could be a couple of months in the waiting. But in buying one from him I've been recommended to fit the 1HD-FT 100 series intercooler shown below for thats a better upgrade over stock.

The addiction good news on this turbo he sells is that the boost apparently comes on at 1200rpm as well as preforming better overall.

11cd9375-879e-4ed7-bcde-03cf91492148.jpg 280b2de0-a90b-44a9-8dfb-b79f9d07d1f4.jpg View attachment 133616 View attachment 133617 de1d2e61-7f90-4aa5-a414-59a1e119942f.jpg aefc96e0-da99-4194-9da2-882e7b09f51d.jpg
 
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Dervis Garip

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Guys after a few days of work finally fitted a good used turbo as new EFI 24 valve one wasn’t available right now. In the next couple months going to up the turbo with a EFI front case and larger spool wheel.

The old one was not proforming well even before it blowing up including the wastegate failure.

Had to take the exhaust manifold off thus taking longer then planned for myself but thankfully all done for now back on the road.

Set the turbo up for 0.9 bar boost for now whilst testing. For now it’s a big improvement to drive feels more alive and responsive.
 

Dave 2000

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Just a note. I am seeing a number of turbo failures, Peugeot engines (fitted to Ford/Land Rover/Peugeot and others), the single biggest problem is bearing failure due to improper shut down procedures. These are known cars to me, regularly serviced, decent filters and oil etc.

Turbo engines must be allowed to idle for a minute or two before switching off, in particular after a run. The turbo is still spinning after you switch off, despite being red hot and now devoid of any oil feed, allowing the engine to idle for a short while allows some of the heat to be pulled out of the bearings and surrounding areas.

There are post shut down oilers available but are not worth the effort/cost IMO, unless you habitually drive hard without allowing a cool down period.

Regards

Dave
 

Dervis Garip

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Just a note. I am seeing a number of turbo failures, Peugeot engines (fitted to Ford/Land Rover/Peugeot and others), the single biggest problem is bearing failure due to improper shut down procedures. These are known cars to me, regularly serviced, decent filters and oil etc.

Turbo engines must be allowed to idle for a minute or two before switching off, in particular after a run. The turbo is still spinning after you switch off, despite being red hot and now devoid of any oil feed, allowing the engine to idle for a short while allows some of the heat to be pulled out of the bearings and surrounding areas.

There are post shut down oilers available but are not worth the effort/cost IMO, unless you habitually drive hard without allowing a cool down period.

Regards

Dave
Yes I agree Dave I have a turbo timer on my vehicle set for 30 seconds but in my case turbo wasn't a good one to start with even with regular oil changes etc. A good turbo shouldn't need changing for the life of the vehicle really. I have seen good ones run over 600,000km and still operating extremely good.

Good news in testing today the car spools boost at 1200 rpm better then before at 1800rpm in the old one.:eusa-dance:
 
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Dervis Garip

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Guys after sorting a major issue being the turbo noticed that this in its self helped the engine become far better and yet still revealed some work needing to get the vehicle running right.

The vehicle was just not very open to increase speeds very fast above 70kmh onwards with the turbo boosting around 0.8-1.0 bar easily continually trying to up the speed and would stall an increase around 125-130kmh on tests.

I knew it was something to do with the fuel pump and so my expert of a cousin helped once again to manually tune the many settings to the fuel pump and more importantly the modded cable pulleys too. The focus is set out below.

Focus is fuelling
Cable pulley realignment and tightening,
Idle
Maximise open throttle for open range.

In the next week or two tweets will be made to perfect the best setup for fuel to performance gains. This is inline to maximise intercooler and custom exhaust mods.

So far the vehicle has really seen a night and day difference and the sound it makes is quite tasteful now..lol

Only issue I'm facing is needing a Cable assy throttle part number 35520-60060 I believe but yet to confirm from the fuel pump to the gearbox as this is stuck with no movement sadly. A weird ultra rare incident I'm told!! :think:

I'll forward a video of the exhaust sound and setup soon.
 
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Shayne

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Air to air intercooler's need a little smoke on start up because they aren't doing anything until your moving but once you are they increase the amount of oxygen that goes into the burn balancing out the smoke .
 

GuyB

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I would strongly recommend a manual boost controller if you're playing with the boost fuel settings. Very easy install and to my mind one of the best bang for buck mods you can do.

The factory actuator opens the wastegate gradually as pressure builds, meaning you're losing some of the pressure your turbo is working so hard to build before you achieve maximum boost. A stiffer actuator spring obviously increases the amount of pressure needed, but it still begins to open long before you want it open.

There are a few different types of boost controller, but their function is to prevent any pressure getting to the wastegate actuator until the desired level of boost is reached, and only from that point, will the wastegate begin to open.

The benefits are 1) that you can achieve max boost at lower revs, and 2) you can adjust it very easily and to a high level of precision.

Don't bother with a cheap (less than about €60) one, they don't work.
 

Dervis Garip

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I would strongly recommend a manual boost controller if you're playing with the boost fuel settings. Very easy install and to my mind one of the best bang for buck mods you can do.

The factory actuator opens the wastegate gradually as pressure builds, meaning you're losing some of the pressure your turbo is working so hard to build before you achieve maximum boost. A stiffer actuator spring obviously increases the amount of pressure needed, but it still begins to open long before you want it open.

There are a few different types of boost controller, but their function is to prevent any pressure getting to the wastegate actuator until the desired level of boost is reached, and only from that point, will the wastegate begin to open.

The benefits are 1) that you can achieve max boost at lower revs, and 2) you can adjust it very easily and to a high level of precision.

Don't bother with a cheap (less than about €60) one, they don't work.

Guy I have set the truck waste-gate to 0.9psi and have a manual waste gate addiction connected too just set around 1.1 bar or now whilst testing and fine tuning. currently the turbo spools at 1000rpm and open boost at 1200rpm so it pretty good. I'm awaiting ti change the turbo front casing for a larger one with a bigger fan blade for increased boost so not needing to have boost levels at necessary high levels but will get better boost accordingly.
 
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