Turbo overhaul options

G

Guest

Guest
Hi
Trying to install a EGT I discovered that the turbo of my 1994 1HD-T
needs at least an overhaul. There's some play in the blades and some
excess oil in the inlet.
Now what started to be a simple gauge installation seams to be heading
to an expensive repair. Been there done that. I never learn to stay
put didn't I :)
So I'm trying to access what would be my best options.
Toyota 2000 euros
AAI aprox 1300 ?
Overhaul could be 750 euros
I don't know the exact prices but assuming this order of magnitude one
wonders if an overhaul would be cost effective for someone that
intends to keep the truck.
Some time ago I almost bought a spare turbo by 100 pounds on Ebay, but
I let it go cause I didn't needed, life can be so cruel :)
Off course that I can just reassemble everything after all while the
truck was running perfectly with consumptions of less than 12 l/100
km, but I think that I love this LC to much to do such a cruel thing
:)
Any thoughts, experiences and solid data very welcome.
Regards
Joaquim
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hi an update to my mail that I don't know if it made it to the list
Trying to install a EGT I discovered that the turbo of my 1994 1HD-T
needs at least a turbo overhaul. There's some play in the blades and some
excess oil in the inlet.
So I'm trying to access what would be my best options the overhaul
here will be 500 euros, AAI haven=B4t sent me their prices yet (anyone
knows) I'm wondering if this 500 euro overhaul would be cost
effective for someone that intends to keep the truck.
What's exactly the difference between a regular turbo and an AAI
"sport turbo". If I'll go the overhaul route is there anything that I
can ask for to make a better turbo.
Any thoughts, experiences and solid data very welcome.
Regards
Joaquim
 
G

Guest

Guest
"What's exactly the difference between a regular turbo and an AAI
"sport turbo". If I'll go the overhaul route is there anything that I
can ask for to make a better turbo."
Craig Vincent is your man, he has one.
Gareth
 
G

Guest

Guest
Hi Joaquim,
Sorry I meant to reply last night and forgot.
It is normal for a little oil to be in the inlet (as in very slightly
damp) there should be no more than 0.11mm of end float and radial play
no more than 0.136mm of radial movement (measured with a dial indicator
through the oil drain outlet hole).
500 euros is over $1000NZ for a rebuild in NZ unless something has gone
horribly wrong $350-400 will do it.
Now Maartens little treasure
He has upgraded the compressor inducer bore from 42mm to 47mm (I don't
know how much he increased the major diameter of the compressor wheel
but I suspect substantially.
There are about 3 different CT26 shaft bearing sizes Maarten uses the
biggest (which in theory slows spool up) as it is much more durable.
Toyota uses a less thermally durable alloy steel for the exhaust wheel
in diesel's due to the lower EGT's compared to petrol engines which is
fine if you run stock boost levels. At elevated boost levels say
12-13psi and sustained high speed driving the stock exhaust wheel will
start shedding blades off the exhaust wheel. Maarten upgrades to a
slightly smaller exhaust wheel made out of petrol turbo type exhaust
wheel material. He custom cast's a different a/r ratio exhaust housing
with a slightly oversize wastegate port. The end result is the turbo is
durable to in excess of 20psi boost (but I would not run that high) and
Maarten reccomends 12-15psi boost.
You can specify an adjustable wastegate as well which I did and
currently it is set at just over 13psi.
On vehicle the difference is the turbo comes onto boost much faster and
deliver's more air at the top end of the rev range as well, I did not no
the exact difference as I installed the intercooler at the same time,
but a friend in aussie fitted one and said [email protected]!#@#$^ this is how the
truck should have run from toyota when new. He could not believe how
much more lively it made it.
Cheers,
Craig.
Joaquim Pinto da Costa wrote:
 
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