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valve adjustment

G

Guest

Guest
Hi guys,
I visited toyota service today to get some parts and then we started to
discuss about the engine and they recommended to me to do the valve
adjustment since I don't know when they were adjusted if they were
adjusted at all.
Since I have to replace the main belt I'm thinking about adjusting the
vales at the same time. Since I'm not familiar with that I'm just
wondering are there any indicators for necessity of valve adjustment or
it just have to be done every 100.000 km ?
Regards,
Tomaz
 
Tomaz,
Valve clearance adjustment requires valve shims to be shuffled /
replaced and is best done more often than at 100.000 km intervals.
Toyota even recommends adjusting it every 30k km. Nothing to do with
the timing belt, though.
--
Rgds,
Roman (London, UK)
'92 HDJ80 (auto)
On 9/26/07, Tomaz Sustar <[Email address removed]> wrote:
 
Hi Tomaz,
Firstly, it would be handy if you (and everyone else on the list)
included the model and age of your LC in the sig to make it easier to
respond.
As Roman has said, ideally check the valves every 30,000 miles.
Assuming you have an 80 series, if it is the 12valve engine (1HD-T -
1990-1995) it uses shims otherwise if it is a 24valve (1HT-FT) engine
that has the more traditional adjustable tappets.
To check the valves on either engine, you will have to remove the air
inlet that goes over the top of the engine as well as remove the rocker
cover on the top of the engine.
You will need a decent set of feeler guages and the ability to turn the
engine over (not starting it!!), which is usually done with a big socket
(32mm ISTR) on the crank shaft pulley nut - it is also to have a large
bar on the socket - using a standard 1/2 inch ratched can get tiresome.
You then put the first cylinder to Top Dead Centre and check some valves
and then turn the engine over a bit more to check the others.
DO NOT try checking the valves with the cam belt off - you need the cam
belt on to turn the cam to open/close the valves.
Also, when changing the cam belt change the cam belt tensioner - these
may not always need changing, but it is a good preventative measure.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
07971 540 362
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
Hi Tomaz,
Firstly, it would be handy if you (and everyone else on the list)
included the model and age of your LC in the sig to make it easier to
respond.
As Roman has said, ideally check the valves every 30,000 miles.
Assuming you have an 80 series, if it is the 12valve engine (1HD-T -
1990-1995) it uses shims otherwise if it is a 24valve (1HT-FT) engine
that has the more traditional adjustable tappets.
To check the valves on either engine, you will have to remove the air
inlet that goes over the top of the engine as well as remove the rocker
cover on the top of the engine.
You will need a decent set of feeler guages and the ability to turn the
engine over (not starting it!!), which is usually done with a big socket
(32mm ISTR) on the crank shaft pulley nut - it is also to have a large
bar on the socket - using a standard 1/2 inch ratched can get tiresome.
You then put the first cylinder to Top Dead Centre and check some valves
and then turn the engine over a bit more to check the others.
DO NOT try checking the valves with the cam belt off - you need the cam
belt on to turn the cam to open/close the valves.
Also, when changing the cam belt change the cam belt tensioner - these
may not always need changing, but it is a good preventative measure.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
07971 540 362
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
Hi Julian
What are the reasons why you would check/adjust the valves.
What are the symptoms of incorrect valve adjustment or that they need
adjusting in the first place.
How many hours are you talking about for getting this adjustment done and
how do you know if its needs doing.
cheers
john 92HDJ 80 1HDT
 
Hi Guys
I would agree with Julian 1000% on this.
Its only a few quid and is an extra safeguard for the protection of your
engine.
I had the experience of the tensioner breaking years ago after spending big
big money on getting the engine rebuilt after the BEB messed up my engine.
It was only that it was going into Toyota for a job to be done anyway that
it was found.
The timing belt had torn through the timing casing at the top and was within
a few miles of really messing up my newly rebuilt engine of a few weeks.
So do replace the tensioner every time you replace the belt.
cheers
john 92HDJ 80 1HDT
SNIP
Also, when changing the cam belt change the cam belt tensioner - these
may not always need changing, but it is a good preventative measure.
 
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Hi Guys,
thank you for all the answers - I have already called a toyota service
to get the valve adjustment done.
Regarding the time belt - there was no data when it was replaced so I
will replace it at the same time including tensioner.
But as John asked - there is still one thing which is not clear to me:
"What are the symptoms of incorrect valve adjustment"
Regards,
Tomaz
p.s.
Finally signature:
--------------------------------------------------------------------
1996 HDJ80 (24V), OME Lift (6 cm), Safari snorkel, Front runner long
ranger tank (170L)
1996 KZJ95, OME Lift (6 cm), Safari snorkel, auxiliary tank (70L)
 
Hi Tomaz,
The timing belt, certainly on an 80 series should be replaced every
60,000miles/100,000km and you get a warning light on the dash when it
is is time to do it.
When you get it done, make sure that you get the mechanic to reset the
counter for the warning - on the dash you will see a rubber grommet -
pull this out and then use a long thin phillips screwdriver or similar
to press the reset button.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
07971 540 362
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
Hi Tomaz,
The timing belt, certainly on an 80 series should be replaced every
60,000miles/100,000km and you get a warning light on the dash when it
is is time to do it.
When you get it done, make sure that you get the mechanic to reset the
counter for the warning - on the dash you will see a rubber grommet -
pull this out and then use a long thin phillips screwdriver or similar
to press the reset button.
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
07971 540 362
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
Hi Tomaz
just spoke to Toyota about valve adjustment and the answer was they don't do
in until it is necessary and that means unless you don't here any ticking
from the engine...So that's what they said!!!
cheers
Lubo
'96HDJ80 24v, 257Tkm and no ticking...:))
 
Hi Lubo,
thank you very much for your help - I think I will adjust them anyway
since I have to change the timing belt. To be honest I can't hear any
ticking but I just want to be sure that the engine is in good condition
and if it is a regular maintenance job for this engine I can't go wrong
with the adjustment ... thats how I see it.
Regards,
Tomaz
--------------------------------------------------------------------
1996 HDJ80 (1HD-FT 24V), OME Lift (6 cm), Safari snorkel, Front runner
long ranger tank (170L)
1996 KZJ95 (1KZ-TE), OME Lift (6 cm), Safari snorkel, auxiliary tank (70L)
 
Hi Tomaz,
Actually, as the valves 'wear' the bed further into the head leading to
smaller gaps on the valves and less 'ticking' noise! so some ticking is
good ;-)
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
07971 540 362
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
Hi Tomaz,
Actually, as the valves 'wear' the bed further into the head leading to
smaller gaps on the valves and less 'ticking' noise! so some ticking is
good ;-)
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
07971 540 362
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
Hi Guys
Just going over a few topics and jsut wondered what are the symptoms of
valves needing adjustment, what happens if you dont get them adjusted.
cheers
John 92HDJ 80 1HDT
 
Hi John,
Generally the gap on the valves closes up, ultimately leading to increased
fuel consumption from the valves opening too early and closing too late.
If you are experienced with listing to various 1HD-T engines you will
notice the difference in the rattle from the top end of an engine that
needs the vallves adjusting and of those that don't.
Siince adjusting mine that were pretty well all too tight the engine it a
lot noisier at the top end than before, but it is a 'healthy' rattle ;-)
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
07971 540 362
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
Hi John,
Generally the gap on the valves closes up, ultimately leading to increased
fuel consumption from the valves opening too early and closing too late.
If you are experienced with listing to various 1HD-T engines you will
notice the difference in the rattle from the top end of an engine that
needs the vallves adjusting and of those that don't.
Siince adjusting mine that were pretty well all too tight the engine it a
lot noisier at the top end than before, but it is a 'healthy' rattle ;-)
--
Regards,
Julian Voelcker
07971 540 362
Skype: julianvoelcker
Cirencester, United Kingdom
1994 HDJ80, 2.5" OME Lift
 
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