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Wanted: spare wheel key-lockable bolt

Bmonck

Bmonck

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May 23, 2015
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england
Does anyone know where you can get these key&locks that protect the spare wheel?
Obviously it doesn’t have to be a Toyota one as long as it fits and works.

Many thanks 6EFC855A-03AB-4AF5-B0C2-82AFBE1A2108.jpeg
 
I had one on my shogun, might still have it, if I can find it you can have it, I’ll look tomorrow
 
Got one on my 78 and there is one on my 120 through the wheel disc, but the barrel is missing so has a locking wheel nut on it
 
Jake the Peg said:
I had one on my shogun, might still have it, if I can find it you can have it, I’ll look tomorrow
Click to expand...
That would be great
I had one but the mechanism seems quite fragile and it broke
 
I had a puncture early hours of one morning on the way to pick someone up to take them to hospital. Went to undo the lock on the spare and the prongs of the unlocking key broke (had same problem on a previous vehicle with similar wheel locks). Ended up snapping the plastic cover in order to get to the nuts that hold the spare wheel on then lift the wheel off over what remained of the inner part of the cover. Just get a reliable lock that isn't likely to cause that problem at an inconvenient time.
 
Good point ren, although lubrication comes into it as well. We all know that wheel nuts need to be tight, and obviously the spare needs to be secure, but the spare sometimes tends to be overlooked.
I always make sure all bolt/ nut threads have a smear of copper grease, (As well as the back mating face of alloys). As the spare is seldom used, (fingers crossed) any corrosion doesn't help in removing it.
 
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Hi Bmonck, sorry it took a few days longer, I’ll blame isolation but really it been a broken down Shogun, and faultfinding someone else’s repairs, so automatic gearbox out and swap some parts over to get it driving again,,,anyway I must have given the lockers away with the original wheels when I got rid of them, Sorry!
 
Many thanks for looking JakeTP. I appreciate it. No rush for anything these days.....sadly no where to go
 
I also have a problem with this lock. I insert the key and no matter how many times i turn the key, the lock never comes off / unscrews... Am I doing something wrong or is it broken? Any ideas how to get this thing off?
1624698679201.png
 
Jureb, from memory the chrome cylinder/key barrel pulls off when the key is in the right position, there is no stop or click, so turn key and pull that chrome rotating cylinder. When in the correct position, off it comes with key and barrel complete. When off, it exposes the other half, which is essentially a modified wheel bolt. This undose in the normal manner with wheel brace/socket etc.
 
Tractionman said:
Jureb, from memory the chrome cylinder/key barrel pulls off when the key is in the right position, there is no stop or click, so turn key and pull that chrome rotating cylinder. When in the correct position, off it comes with key and barrel complete. When off, it exposes the other half, which is essentially a modified wheel bolt. This undose in the normal manner with wheel brace/socket etc.
Click to expand...
Yes, the manual also says so. But the thing just won't come off. I must have tried every position from 0 to 360 degrees with a step of 1 degree :sweatsmile:. I'm gonna keep trying. I wouldn't be surprised that everything inside the lock is corroded/ seized after all these years of salt and dirt spraying on the back of the car.... I'm going to be the biggest idiot when my tyre gets a puncture and I will be calling road assistance with a spare on the rear hatch :).
1624814601467.png
 
When I had one on my 78, it was always hit and miss getting off, and that was kept well lubricated. On that part bolted to the wheel exposed by the chrome cylinder/barrel, there is like an o ring with a raised edge, this grips the inside of the cylinder when slid over, so needs to be held still and pulled whilst rotating the key. Only rotate the key, not both together, even though the outer is free anyway. It's a poor design really as no definate unlock position.
The one on my 120 was corroded to f%$# and I couldn't even get the key in. I drilled the barrel out and destroyed it with a screwdriver to get off, and there was a spare locking wheel nut in the kit which I then used. Of course you have to get yours off first.
 
I didn't realise the outer chrome barrel has to stay put when you're turning the key. Unfortunately the inner part with the lock seems to be seized to the outer chrome barrel. They only turn together. That's going to be problematic :) .
 
Mmm.... on the one I had, that chrome outer turned freely in relation to the key barrel.
I think the reasoning behind it is, so somebody can't put grips etc on it and unscrew the whole lot, thus negating the key. If the chrome outer turns separately, there's no way it can be unscrewed.
Tomorrow morning I will have a look in the scrap bin in garage. I know the old one is in there I destroyed the barrel on, just to double check I am correct
 
I think I will drench the lock/chrome barrel in wd40 or maybe heat it up with a heat gun... Hopefully the lock will start to rotate independently from the chrome barrel. I don't have high hopes though, most likely I will also have to drill it out and destroy it in progress.
 
Sorry Jureb, been a manic monday here, gas board replacing pipework in road and need access to property.
Anyway, the scrap one is so floppy and loose where I destroyed the barrel , but I took the cover off spare on the unused 78 and there is one still on there, (out of sight, out of mind).
The outer does not turn independently as said, it's part of the lock. With the key slot vertical, insert key and turn 180 to the left, so the key is now upside down to the position you put it in, the barrel with key now pulls off. I have tried several times and works, twice I needed to jiggle the barrel and key, the key wasn't all the way in.
Lubing yours cannot hurt, but be very wary of heat, sorry if I am teaching you to suck eggs, but the cover is plastic, and you could get heat transference to that, the wheel and possibly rear door.
The one on my 120 wouldn't even let the key in, yet alone turn, so as yours is turning, there is hope, its not like a normal lock as such.
Come back if no joy, I'll try to be quicker then. Cheers.
 
There is no key turn, on the 120 at least. Putting the key in retracts two little tabs in the cap allowing it to slide off the nut it covers. As has been said if you haven't taken it off for a bit and it wasn't well lubed it'll be fairly stuck. Key in place, and it needs to be in enough to cover all the notches on the key, and mole grips on the cap and it'll come off. Little bit of wobbling in the same plane as the key helps.
 
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