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Water Pump swap on D4D UK Euro IV Spec (Prado) 120- how to

Animal Mother

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Having just spent a day doing the water pump on my car I thought I'd share a "how to" due to it being such a pain in the arse job.

The water pump on the 120 D4D is either a single piece unit or (in my year of 120) a two piece unit.

Single piece:
cwp004_1.jpg


Two piece unit
16100-69356__3.jpg


The chap I bought the car from had fitted a Blueprint water pump. It was awful and leaked from day one. I though, rather than just fit the pump section, I would replace the entire pump (it appears I had a weep from the pump body too). This can be a nightmare of a job and the following is a brief tutorial of how to do the job.

There are guides elsewhere on the internet to cover some of the main aspects of the job, so I will link to those when required.

Remove earth/negative cables from batteries.

Remove expansion/header tank.

Remove fan and fan cowl (these need to come off together).

Remove auxiliary belt.

Remove timing belt cover.

Line up timing markings on timing belt.
This should help:

Remove timing belt tensioner and pulley.

Clamp (using vice grips) the two sides of the belt together close to the top pulley.
This is to avoid removing the intercooler, cam cover, etc.
This should help: http://www.hilux4x4.co.za/views/viewtopic.php?t=25132

Remove top pully and cambelt. DON'T lose the woodruff key!

Remove plastic backing plate .

Remove all bolts from water pump (8 off).

Remove idler pulley.

Remove bolts (2 off @14mm) from the alternator/aircon compressor bracket. The bolts are above one another to the left of the water pump and actually go through the pump body.

Remove aircon compressor. 4 bolts facing driver side wing.

Pull compressor out of the way and you can get a 12mm spanner to the bolt going into the block through the compressor bracket.

Unbolt alternator (loosen main 14mm bolt at top, remove 12mm bolt at bottom). Knock the alternator out of the way to reach a second 12mm bolt holding the compressor/alternator bracket to the block. DON'T remove the bolt completely, you only need to loosen it.

Wiggle the bracket loose until you can remove the water pump.

Clean face of engine where water pump goes (I use scotchbrite).

Fit new water pump.

Refit parts the reverse of removal. N.B. Top pulley torque is 98Nm. I used the old timing belt for refitting as I didn't want to damage my new belt (using the vice grips). Also add a little oil to the cam pulley and woodruff to prevent binding when tightening.

Auxiliary belt routing is as per this diagram:
http://www.japan-parts.eu/EU/2/161663A.png

I hope the above helps someone as I had to guess at the process the first time.
 
Having just spent a day doing the water pump on my car I thought I'd share a "how to" due to it being such a pain in the arse job.

The water pump on the 120 D4D is either a single piece unit or (in my year of 120) a two piece unit.

Single piece:
View attachment 148446

Two piece unit
View attachment 148447

The chap I bought the car from had fitted a Blueprint water pump. It was awful and leaked from day one. I though, rather than just fit the pump section, I would replace the entire pump (it appears I had a weep from the pump body too). This can be a nightmare of a job and the following is a brief tutorial of how to do the job.

There are guides elsewhere on the internet to cover some of the main aspects of the job, so I will link to those when required.

Remove earth/negative cables from batteries.

Remove expansion/header tank.

Remove fan and fan cowl (these need to come off together).

Remove auxiliary belt.

Remove timing belt cover.

Line up timing markings on timing belt.
This should help:

Remove timing belt tensioner and pulley.

Clamp (using vice grips) the two sides of the belt together close to the top pulley.
This is to avoid removing the intercooler, cam cover, etc.
This should help: http://www.hilux4x4.co.za/views/viewtopic.php?t=25132

Remove top pully and cambelt. DON'T lose the woodruff key!

Remove plastic backing plate .

Remove all bolts from water pump (8 off).

Remove idler pulley.

Remove bolts (2 off @14mm) from the alternator/aircon compressor bracket. The bolts are above one another to the left of the water pump and actually go through the pump body.

Remove aircon compressor. 4 bolts facing driver side wing.

Pull compressor out of the way and you can get a 12mm spanner to the bolt going into the block through the compressor bracket.

Unbolt alternator (loosen main 14mm bolt at top, remove 12mm bolt at bottom). Knock the alternator out of the way to reach a second 12mm bolt holding the compressor/alternator bracket to the block. DON'T remove the bolt completely, you only need to loosen it.

Wiggle the bracket loose until you can remove the water pump.

Clean face of engine where water pump goes (I use scotchbrite).

Fit new water pump.

Refit parts the reverse of removal. N.B. Top pulley torque is 98Nm. I used the old timing belt for refitting as I didn't want to damage my new belt (using the vice grips). Also add a little oil to the cam pulley and woodruff to prevent binding when tightening.

Auxiliary belt routing is as per this diagram:
http://www.japan-parts.eu/EU/2/161663A.png

I hope the above helps someone as I had to guess at the process the first time.
Cars with the two piece units are much easier and cheaper to change when just changing the pump , and not the back plate .
 
The design changed to avoid leaks between the 2 parts afaik.

Looks exactly the same as the Kz-te pump as well.
 
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This is a great informative and handy thread, Thanks AM, I hope I never need it though!:thumbup:
 
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