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Waxoyl or Dinitrol?

Ecoman

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I have taken my Hilux off the road for a revamp. As I'm in the North East of Scotland the combination of long winters with heavily gritted roads and living next to the sea has taken its toll on the underside of my old MK4.

Thankfully its not too bad and its only surface rust and flaking paint, phew! But if I left it for another year it would start to cause long term problems that would become very costly to repair.

So, I have invested in a needle gun, wire wheels for the grinder and drill and other assorted rust removal tools. I'm also looking at a few chemical options to remove or convert the rust in the hard to reach places. Then I was going to give it a liberal coat of Frosts POR-15 rust prevention chassis paint. To top off the protection I was going to coat everything (including the inside of the chassis, sills and doors etc) in Waxoyl, Dinitrol or equivalent.

Now, I have used waxoyl before and with good results but I have also read excellent reports on the Dinitrol product range. Can anyone give their views on, or their experiences of, either waxoyl, dinitrol or other equivalent products please? I'm not made of money but would happily pay extra for a product which would save me a fortune in time, welding and parts in the future.

I was also going to invest in the tools/pumps/applicators so I could do the job again in a year or twos time to keep the dreaded tin worms at bay. From what I can see the Waxoyl tools are designed with the home hobbyist in mind and everything seems to be made of plastic and designed to be thrown away once the work was done. The Dinitrol range of tools and applicators seem to be better made and would seem to be able to last for several years and many applications. Does the quality of the tools also reflect in the quality of the product by comparison??

The plan is to do the hilux first and when thats done I intent to turn my attention to the 80 ;)

Any opinions will be greatly received :thumbup:
 
I always had good results with Waxoyl, but not with their guns/sprayers/applicators.

Just invested in a Shultz gun from Draper that will go on a compressor that i can refill, and will be keeping the substance (whatever i use) in a heated water tank so its nice and thin rather than diluting it.

There is also the opinion that a nice thin (Duck oil etc.) substance applied more often as its easier can be just as benificial. I've always done that on long term storage for Motorbikes as it can be removed from the paintwork when you unpack it for use. I will be using Duck oil inside door cavities etc on my 100.
 
Yeah I was going to get one of the draper schutz guns but decided to get some other opinions first. Your not the only person to mention it so still leaning towards getting one.

When storing bikes over the winter I tend to use Wurth 2040 (or Scottoiler F365 if its on special offer). Just spray it on and walk away. Its also great on paintwork and plastics all year round. I wash the bike then Just spray it on and then wipe it around with a soft cloth so there is a thin film over everything. Ideal if you use the bike in all weathers. :thumbup:
 
Ecoman said:
Yeah I was going to get one of the draper schutz guns but decided to get some other opinions first. Your not the only person to mention it so still leaning towards getting one.

When storing bikes over the winter I tend to use Wurth 2040 (or Scottoiler F365 if its on special offer). Just spray it on and walk away. Its also great on paintwork and plastics all year round. I wash the bike then Just spray it on and then wipe it around with a soft cloth so there is a thin film over everything. Ideal if you use the bike in all weathers. :thumbup:

ACF50 also works very well on bikes. Just don't get it on the discs :doh:
 
hi i have done the same thing on my colorado chassis, getting it ready for another Scottish winter
i used dinitrol and got this pack
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DINITROL-3125 ... 19c81b96d7

with the supplied long nosle it made the job easy and the four cans were enough to go round the the inside of the chassis
 
What was the finish left by the dinitrol? Was it soft and tacky or did it harden off?
 
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I had dinitrol and the thicker one did harden more than waxoyl. there were some tacky bits around the axles but mostly harder.
 
I've used both and the dinitrol seems to be a longer-lasting solution but my comparison isn't massively scientific.
Have dig a around for pics of the underneath of Scott's 80 if you want to see what a proper coating of dinitrol can look like :mrgreen:

I think Rejel have rebranded dinitrol or at least are selling under their own brand. I got an email the other day with some decent specials and ISTR they had an offer on the Commercials section here? Must have a look....

The POR-15 paint seems to be beyond bullet-proof too!

EDIT: Found the Rejel offer in the Club Discount section here
 
Cheers SimonD

Thanks Mr prince. Very much appreciated :thumbup:
 
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