What oil to use?

Ecoman

Well-Known Member
I am in scotland
Sep 8, 2010
1,896
5
38
Isle of Arran
Ok so I now have an 80 series.

The last owner says he had all the oils changed at the same time. However, as a rule of thumb and for my own piece of mind, I want to replace them all again. What would be the best engine oil to use? In previous threads there have been a few conflicting opinions referring to the best oils to use. Personally I won't be using the thinner (5w) synthetic oils. I know they are good but its an old style engine and its clocked up a few miles now so tolerances wont be as tight. I don't even use them in my Hilux and thats a 2001. I also checked out the FAQs on the Opie Oils site and it says that the thinner synthetic oils are great for modern engines but they supply thicker oils for older engines. I will probably opt for a thicker synthetic or semi synth. I don't believe in putting in cheap oil. Lets face it you only get what you pay for.

So any suggestions that will prolong the life of my engine?
 

pugwash

Well-Known Member
I am in uk
Mar 1, 2010
389
1
38
N Hampshire
Use Fuchs Titan Syn Diesel (http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-997-fuchs-t ... uctDetails)

its a 10w40 with an amazing spec- very high TBN number so you can use it with any high sulphur fuel for any amount of time, it has a CI-4 API classification- "severe diesel duty"- meant for things used in very harsh offroad conditions- such as dozers and cats- this is backed up with ACEA E7 too (another extremely high spec commercial code). It results in an oil with very low soot, and with excellent stability over its life.

If you want your BEBs to last, and to minimise bore wear, along with knowing that your oil will work optimally in any country in the world, then this is the stuff for you. You do not need to maximise your oil changes with this stuff- it will happily run to 12k in a direct injection engine in any condition (presuming its not contaminated), and in commercials will probably run much longer (they will test oils and change when necessary as opposed to changing on a fixed schedule)


p.s. it also has excellent flow rates on startup- you will notice your oil pressure will be lower as soon as you start the car- this is a GOOD thing- it means you have increased flow around the engine which means everything is that bit better lubricated. Made a small improvement to my economy (about .5mpg) and a huge difference on engine smoothness- runs like silk now.
 

Ecoman

Well-Known Member
I am in scotland
Sep 8, 2010
1,896
5
38
Isle of Arran
Mmm like the sound of the Fuchs oil. Thanks for that Pugwash I will be looking into that.

Paul I only ever fit genuine oil filters. I used to work for Nissan and saw so many engines with seriously shortened lives for the sake of saving a few quid on an oil filter. Cheaper filters can clog up far too easily, allow oil to pass back through them as they lack the non-return element or the filter membrane is just not strong enough and splits. I'm a firm believer that genuine is best unless something is proven to be better and by that I mean owners rate it over the original fitment and test prove it ie. ACL bearings.
 
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Ecoman

Well-Known Member
I am in scotland
Sep 8, 2010
1,896
5
38
Isle of Arran
Yeah I think for the sake of a couple of quid its not worth the risk.

My surf was serviced by a local garage and he fitter a cheapo filter from milners. About a month later I had a really bad oil leak. I thought my turbo oil feed had split. Turned out to be a pin hole in the side of the oil filter. Where it was there was no way it could have been done by a stone chip and there were no marks around the area where the oil was leaking from so it ruled out a heavy handed mechanic. It wust have been there from manufacture and the paint was sealing the leak. :thumbdown:
 

chriscolleman

Well-Known Member
Sep 7, 2010
284
3
36
Belgium
For the customers genuine oils and filters only.

My own vehicles I use my preferred brands.
Castrol for oils.
Mann & Hummel for filters.
Sometimes a K&N air filter.
 
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