Whats this noise/whistling?

[frank rabbets]

Presumably just removing the rubber hoses from the egr valves will stop them working so blanking plates are not necessary. But of course this won't stop the whistle.

 

[Chris E]

I have what sounds like the same on my car. On acceleration there is a penetrating / sharp (i.e. not normal) whistle. It is only on a bit harder acceleration and tends to start on higher RPMs. I had my mechanics look at it and he claims the sound comes from the ventilation hose being broken. It connects to the turbo I think so perhaps it starts when the turbo kicks in. I will have the hose replaced shortly and will provide an update. Apparently quite a big job, the oil pan needs to be removed (I was told).

 

[Rich42td]

Not sure what hose you mean on the turbo, but there are the air inlet and outlet hoses, WG actuator hose and then oil and water supply/return hoses.

Does anyone on here make/sell EGR blanking plates or know where I can buy them?
I found a post from 2010 where a member on this forum ‘Paul’ had some made but I’m not sure if he is still active as I am unable to PM him.

 

[kanobaker]

yep got same motor in a 1997 , 4.2 , 24v , manual ver amazon. had 22 yrs now and its done 345 k miles. when bought had 70k miles on clock and EGR valves that whistled like a kettle. totally different noise to any slight turbo winding up and down re overrun whine. changed the flange joints 2 times but whistle returned. ended up blanking off at the flange where iron meets the alloy. no whistle since for 270k miles and passes old fashioned emissions no prob. test guys say appears to be very clean motor for type. You can take egr vac tubes off if u want and join them together with plug,, put them back for appearance sake at 'certain times' , they move the valve when told to by computer but don't do anything much. (Purists don't moan, it works). Nb watch out for the threads in the alloy where fixed as often not too good, and can strip easy if trying to get tight, helicoil is the answer to getting tighter if needed. these are brilliant motors at 170hp, I heard they are jacked up to 300 hp for marine version so basically take anything you can throw at them car wise., change oil every 10k without fail, (or less as per manual) regular injector cleaner then too. put 1st lot in nearly empty tank (stronger) for a while, then next in half tank, does the job. my LC motor has same injectors, no smoke at all, original clutch, had one new starter motor and new disks all round few years ago. . not a missed beat. apart from the usual consumables that's it. this motor i'm sure will probably outlast me.

 

[frank rabbets]

The ally flange warped on mine so just fitting a new gasket would not have cured whistle. Quick file and back to normal with old gasket and silicone sealer (it's heat resistant).

 

[kanobaker]

OK leaving EGRs open is great too, its a balance between doing your bit saving a miniscule amount of 'cleaner' air, no dpf or fancy stuff in here I'm afraid, or a much longer life for your motor. As LCs seem to last for ever if looked after its a no brainer for the owner. I guess the black crap from the exhaust in the ally manifold down from the EGRs was noticed on your hands. Just rub some between your fingers, it will take your finger prints off, great lapping paste for the pistons if you like that kind of thing.

 

[Rich42td]

I fitted some steel EGR blanking plates (4) to both sides of the EGR valves today and also check for play in shaft of the turbo, no axial play and only very small radial play, this feels the same as a 1-year old TD04 I have lying about in the garage.

Engine still makes that odd noise, only other thing I can think of is the waste gate actuator. Only was I can think to test is to put a source of compressed air on the actuator and listen for the howl.