Which year / version if you had the choice ?

[Paulpen]

Following on from my "what have i done" / 120 or 100 debate im heading down the 100 route !

Now not knowing alot about 100's but having spoke alot with Nathan and read alot on the 50th he has made better than new im now on the hunt for one to suit but wondered between all the years etc what one is the best for my budget.

Before we all say to have Nathans one ive been in discussions with him for the last week and while it ticks all the boxes the lightly coloured interior and the immaculate paintwork would not survive in their current condition very long due to mud, grease and tight lanes down my way and it would be a shame to ruin something thats so tidy and had so much effort go into it.

So firstly I know that a darker interior is better !
Secondly id like to go for the diesel option - mainly as petrol would need to be on lpg and it seems that there is alot of worry about the petrol engine valves / valve seats when using lpg ?
Thirdly id like it to be silver outside

Already a hard enough list im guessing for a vehicle that is not exactly for sale in the hundreds to start with !

Having read the sleeoffroad 100 newbies guide for specifations on years does this crossover well to the UK models or it mostly US based ?
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/newbie/newbieUZJ100.htm

Going by that guide a 2000 model onwards seems to get you all the safety stuff along with the stronger front diff so am I correct in thinking that ?. A 2003+ seems to be out of budget for what im willing to spend on a vehicle currently.

Is there anything people would say is a must have / must avoid ?

 

[uHu]

I assume you are thinking of the 1HD-FTE engine then.
They are all good. 1997 to 2007 production. Only two things to check: The early converter (if automatic) and the 2 pinion front diff, although both are easy to replace.
I must say though, that the newer 5-speed auto is much more snappy to drive. Not only because of the gearbox, but the new ECU, new IP-algorithm, improved turbo and valves.
The most important to check in any case is rust, rust and damages.

 

[Paulpen]

If the 1HD-FTE is the 4.2 turbo then yep thats what im after

Ive currently got two on my "to keep an eye on list" :
A 2001 with 160,000 miles
A 2004 with 128,000 miles

 

[lc 120]

The 2004 should be a 5 x speed....

 

[nathanrobo]

I assume you are thinking of the 1HD-FTE engine then.
They are all good. 1997 to 2007 production. Only two things to check: The early converter (if automatic) and the 2 pinion front diff, although both are easy to replace.
I must say though, that the newer 5-speed auto is much more snappy to drive. Not only because of the gearbox, but the new ECU, new IP-algorithm, improved turbo and valves.
The most important to check in any case is rust, rust and damages.

UHU's is right about checking out rust. I'll look very carefully at upper / lower tailgates, back of sills and the various supports / brackets underneath. I'd also want to get some evidence that the oils and filters have been regularly changed. Some of the earlier IP's (pre-03 I think) had a mod on the plug that goes onto the spill valve. BEB's are often mentioned on here (although I think this is more of an issue with 80's and Japanese spec imports). If what you are looking at has AHC, then check it's operation and find out if the spheres have been replaced / regassed. The Torque Converter problem that UHU mentioned affects the Aisin A442F box, so you can easily check whether this is relevant (I think the years were late '90's early 00's). Also worth checking the operation of the steering tilt / rake motors (they're kinda expensive to replace), these can be turned off with TIS so that they don't operate every time the key is put in - which seems to resolve the problem. Worth asking about the Cam in the steering lock mechanism. Not sure what years but both of my 100's had that fail - this seems to be pretty common and can leave you stranded (notice Roughtrax now supplies this part).

 

[Paulpen]

Cheers for all the info guys - im sure that whetever I get will need something doing to get it up to spec but id rather find it pre purchase

 

[Paulpen]

Three viewed so far and all no nos !

Two had good history but in person were tatty and had enough stuff that didnt work or enough leaks that would cost too much for what they wanted. Other one I manged to push a thumb through the nearside rear underside :O

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

Just a quickie Paul, have you come across a 100 yet with a dark interior?

 

[Paulpen]

A couple with the gray seats and dash and one with a black top dash and gray everything else

 

[nathanrobo]

A couple with the gray seats and dash and one with a black top dash and gray everything else

I wouldn't get held up on the interior colour. It can always be darkened - process is pretty simple - dye supplied by a proper tannery (same dye they use on hydes before they are sold.

 

[Paulpen]

Its more the dash and door cards than the seats in all honesty though

Saying that i am broadening horizons

 

[nathanrobo]

Its more the dash and door cards than the seats in all honesty though

Saying that i am broadening horizons

You can colour all of these parts. A mate did his '92 Bentley recently (it was green hide) and he did the day, door cards, seats etc all in wild berry.

 

[Paulpen]

Ahhhhh
Didnt know you could do plastics like that !

 

[Grimbo]

Why is it 100's seem to suffer from rust more than older 80's ?
Did Toyota cut back on rust prevention ?
Strange that after the rust issues on the 60's they got the 80 right and then seem to have forgotten the lesson's to a degree with the 100's .

 

[SafariTecPeter]

I am abit in the same boat as You GRIMBO

Having driven enough LC`s I recon I have a fair idea of what swings&turns
My preferred choise would be a post MY`03 with manual gearbox. The newer the better...
They are very rare.... in good shape...
I don`t need 7 seats, so that is an open point in my checklist.
If automatic, Then definately post mid `04 with the newer 5-speed gearbox.
I have experience w both & would opt for the newer version. Especially as I do tow abit
I don`t care for the AHC, so that would dissapear anyway with a lift installed.
Some early models had issues w cracking lower control arms. Worth a check.

The post (late?)`03 have the HEVAC intigrtated in the screen. If that goues sour,You will probably too. So there is an advantage wtih the older ones & a manual controll. I recon....
Post mid`04 have more safety gear such as airbags & that sort of stuff.

I myself prefer the lighter interior, the car gets less "dark" inside. Personal preferences.

I like a sonnroof, but they are far & few between. Many shout at they for leaking.... but it can be fixed.
I am not tooo fussy abt bodycolour. I might change it anyway.
Scruffy bumpers etc do put me off, then again if You intend to "offroad" it You may just aswell sort steel bumpers right away.
Both Body & Chassis corrode. Heavily. It can get real messy to sort 100%
Rear hatch(es) is(are) probably among the more expensive bits to source & sort. But still availabe
Those are the rough thoughts I have on the topic & a related search.

You will need to find the vehicle that suits YOU

 

[AndycruiserguyLomas]

100's are only painted underneath and have large exposed areas which are subject to the "sandblasting" effects of the dust and grit swirling about underneath taking the paint off just waiting for the winter salt to take hold. there starts the downward spiral we try to prevent all too late.
Short of dropping the chassis off and blasting everything and remedying every issue I can't see too much as can be done.
There are several bad mud traps around the mudflaps which can lead to perforation at the corners of the wheel arch and they do suffer from corrosion round the rear body mountings ( as mine had an advisory for on the last MOT)
If you want a corrosion free one buy one from a salt free warm country which is RHD.

 

[SafariTecPeter]

Short of dropping the chassis off and blasting everything and remedying every issue I can't see too much as can be done.
If you want a corrosion free one buy one from a salt free warm country which is RHD.

How right You are with respect to these two quoted lines.

Stripping the frame & have it galvanized. Some paint over the galvanasation for whatever purpose.
You may have to go to South Africa or similar to find them "rust free" & RHD. Diesels are far if not further between.
Andy; if You have other market or sources in mind, please do share

Rather OT, but still; I read an article last night based on a internal Porsche document stating that Porsche is suffering way bigger corrosion issues & subsequent (warranty?) costs since 2003 in Austria (& followed by Switzerland) compared to other countries. The named culprit being salt on the roads.

 

[nathanrobo]

Could corrosion relate to how well the truck has been looked after? Both my 100's were very clean underneath, but never off-roaded as far as I know and the only corrosion found during the repaint was a small amount toward the back of the sills - not rotten, just pitting and the same around the lock area or both upper and lower tailgate.

Could be that things decline if the under covers are removed to? The surprising thing talking to Paul is that a lot of what he's looked has had corrosion in different places? But thinking about it I haven't scrutinised LC's other than my own since 2009. Maybe they just weren't old enough then to have problems?

 

[SafariTecPeter]

I have slid under a fair few LC 100 the last few years.
Most of them have not been heavily offroaded like I have seen on some other similar 4x4`s
My impression ist that the LC100 is better underneight that fi the LC90.
The LC100 tends to "go" underneight from the gearbox & aft. Some corrosion found un the front suspention YES, but not as much as elsewhere.
The sills, wheelarches & especially rear hatches seem to get a hammering.

It they are generally not cleaned /washed often & moist is let to sit for prolonged time in secluded areas, the deteriating process is commenced.

1 LC100 I remember in particular. It had undergone under carrigde wax treatment on a very regular basis. It was very thick underneight. I told the owner it was looking good but needed to be redone as it had started to go in some areas.
He didn`t adress it & about a 12-16 Month later the undercarrigde was suffering extensively. I hope we "saved" it by readressing the undercarridge & reapplying wax. It should be OK for now but will not last "forever"....
I`ll keep an eye on how it developes.

To those who tend to sink their cars in mud pooles etc when doing greenlaning etc, You are truely shortening the lives of Your vehicle unless You adress the moist & dirt ingression fairly soon.
Which can be an issue (or should I say challange?) inside the frame.....

 

[Paulpen]

Certainly alot of input on the subject but most of it does come down to corrosion in the end - everything else is fixable with parts or time at home but rust is one of those major and expensive things !

Gearbox type is certainly not a deal breaker but finding a manual on the off chance with all the other boxes ticked will be very rare I imagine !

Im currently looking at a 2004 but not sure if its before or after the mid crossover point or not relating to the gearbox or how I would know without viewing in person unless there is a VIN decoder etc ?

I think alot comes down to how particular the person is and what they inted to use it for - im after a clean daily driver that will see the odd bit of work but also needs to be a family car for the odd long trip. If I was intending to overland it or offroad it id have a totally different set of ideals etc

The ones ive seen have all had corrosion from the rear axle back in varying states ranging from surface to making holes with a light thumb press. Some have also had the sill seams loooking quite bad and one even had it getting a bit bad in the front wheel arches. Ive seen one with both tailgate sections going and also one with both front wings bubbling on the exterior painted surface.

It did make me a bit down after viewing a few like that in all honesty but going to persevere on and keep hunting. My Prado was so clean in comparison to what ive seen so far and that was 5 years older than everyting 100 series ive viewed but it was an import that I rinsed the underneath off more than the top !