Workshop manual? Things to do.

[Alrightchief]

Hi guys Just joined up and Bought an unbelievably rust free clean 2005 90k 4.2 amazon lc100..

Im trying to get a manual to help me get things sorted etc where would I get one? any tips on things to get done?
List
ENG Oil & filter
Belts with tensioners
GB Oil & filter?
Diffs
Grease shafts
Valve clearances
clean out egr. or blank?
Re pack wheel bearings? Or buy new?
Transfer box oil?
Brake fluid,
AHC fluid?

Thanks

 

[flint]

Here's Toyotas take on a maintenance schedule: https://www.toyota-tech.eu/MaintenanceSchedules/lc100/Final.pdf

 

[uHu]

QUOTE="Hi guys...
? any tips on things to get done?
List"

• ENG Oil & filter --: use only toyota filter
• Belts with tensioners --: 90 k miles? Time to change timing belt. OE belt AND complete tensioner. Do the water pump at the same time - saves future trouble. Pump is cheaper than your labour to redo the job.
• GB Oil & filter? --: No filter on auto box. Regular drain and fill will do if done regularly. There's a special procedure to follow wrt temperature. Easy to do if done right. Remember that filling up to level is done with engine running.
• Diffs --: Of course
• Grease shafts --: Frequently. If you want UJs to last, grease them up twice as often as engine oil changes, and always after water crossings (fording etc)
• Valve clearances --: Normally very stable, at least up to 200 k miles, but schedule says shorter. Takes a bit of time and concentration. Best to do in combination with TB change and water pump. (The least extra work and least possibility of leaks). Remember new top cover seal. (See EGR)
• clean out egr. or blank? --: Good to do if removing top cover anyhow. There's a lot of cleaning to do. Getting rid of the egr altogether is the best for the engine. If doing it thoroughly you'll need a few new seals for the manifold area.
• Re pack wheel bearings? Or buy new? --: Repack. After cleaning until baby clean, check surfaces. If good then repack. Remember new inner hub seal, and keep handy a few parts for the flange, like C-clip, cones, studs and nuts; as they are often mistreated by unskilled mechanics.
• Transfer box oil? --: Same as diffs. Synt is good.
• Brake fluid, --: Use OE toyota, 5.1 is good, compatible with the toyota seals and MC.
• AHC fluid? --: Bleed out old, corner by corner, always refill before reservoir goes down too much. Bleed until clean - normally very dirty at the bottom end even if looks good at top end.

 

[Alrightchief]

Thanks guys much appreciated, If A 20 year mechanic was a number 10 and a person who couldn't fit a bulb is a O, Im around the 7 mark. Today iv done all belts, Alternator, Diffs, Engine all oil-Filter and a few other odd jobs.

Iv got a problem with the rear diff lock I suspect its the Solenoid/or actuator on the axle... (not of great importance) but I want it working! Any advise would be great..

Techstream is it worth it £££ is there something else out there??

Id also like to fix lumbar support in the drivers seat.. Also Is it possible to swap the base cushions from passenger to driver etc? so it even outs the wear on them?

I need a replacement shield/guard from the front. the one with the hole in for drain plug for Rad in. What is the proper terminology for that plate?

If just read the post about fixing the column motor so Im going to give that ago!

I am most desperate for a new set of keys. Transponder? recoding? Batteries?

I have Dextron 3 is this not a suitable ATF?

Cheers!

 

[Alrightchief]

No, No, No, do Not use Dextron 3 in the 5 speed auto, prob fine for the 4 speed but not your 5 speed.

The rear diff lock can play up on the 100, but as you know, you have to be in low range to enguage rear diff lock, and then drive forward and turn the wheels slightly, I thought mine ws US untill I tried this, I now also find a large empty area, and put the rear diff lock in evey couple of months, as lack of use is one of the probs.

Thanks Steve my method was

Start, Park, High to N to Low wait until centre diff light is solid, go forward about 1m. Nothing go back wards. And again forwards nothing. But will retry with more movement forward and more turning.

Cheers!

I need to strip it out and test the sensor etc. Stupidly I should have done this before diffs oil! It was obvious the diff had not been touched in a very long time! But wow was the oil clean! Slight smell but CLEAN!

I really need to find the WSM

I will get some TOYOTA WS ATF asap thanks I had a look in the downloads but can’t see anything.

The main reason I would like to get the GB changed is because if coasting down hill then re applying power OR foot on, foot off, foot on in traffic slightly to quickly is producing not a bang but a jerk, I’m thinking “hoping” it’s normal but I still want to do it.

Thanks again

 

[Alrightchief]

The rear diff lock needs to see a differance in rear wheel speed before it locks, I.E driving in a circle outer wheel travling further than the inner wheel, to disenguage, turn rear diff lock off at the switch, and drive in a straight line until it comes out.

Thanks again Steve. Must be sensor or solenoid! Tried again doesn’t stop flashing

 

[uHu]

Re rear diff.lock: After shifting to low and CDL on, if you engage the RDL with the door open, you should hear the motor whirr. The actuator motor runs and puts pressure on a powerful spring, which then engages the lock when the cogs permit it. Same when disengaging - motor runs anyway, if it works. On mine, everything works, but the light never stops blinking.

Dexron 3 is good for the power steering. Do not use "Power steering oil". Synt D3 is the best tho'.

Thump might be normal, but might also be the famous driveline thump that comes from hydrolocking of the rear driveshaft (propeller shaft) splines. Clean out and relube the splines to see if it goes away. Splines should have only 2-3 pumps on a manual grease pump. If you notice any extension of the shaft lenght, unscrew the zerk to let any pressure out.

If you're looking for a stronger key shell/housing/head, look to YotaMD. The only Land Cruiser key which holds up to the quality of the cruiser. The original key breaks if you place your toddler on your lap, or your wife starts the car after paying at the supermarket. The YotaMD is a head only tho', if you need key blade (original key sans chip) you find them for 2 £ on fleebay.

TechStream is $30 for cable and disk from china etc.

 

[Chris]

The rear locker uses a dog clutch to lock and as already indicated it's very coarse, unlike the sleeve on an 80 front diff. It can take substantial rotation to line it up. Now, even when locked, there is a detent switch on the housing that triggers the lock light on the dash. These are, for some reason, very prone to failure. Easy to test once you have established that the locker motor is whirring. 27mm socket gets it out. It's a ball bearing plunger with an in and out electrical connection. Use a meter or a battery and test bulb to see if it's switching on and off.

Hopefully it's just the detent switch.

 

[Alrightchief]

Re rear diff.lock: After shifting to low and CDL on, if you engage the RDL with the door open, you should hear the motor whirr. The actuator motor runs and puts pressure on a powerful spring, which then engages the lock when the cogs permit it. Same when disengaging - motor runs anyway, if it works. On mine, everything works, but the light never stops blinking.

Dexron 3 is good for the power steering. Do not use "Power steering oil". Synt D3 is the best tho'.

Thump might be normal, but might also be the famous driveline thump that comes from hydrolocking of the rear driveshaft (propeller shaft) splines. Clean out and relube the splines to see if it goes away. Splines should have only 2-3 pumps on a manual grease pump. If you notice any extension of the shaft lenght, unscrew the zerk to let any pressure out.

If you're looking for a stronger key shell/housing/head, look to YotaMD. The only Land Cruiser key which holds up to the quality of the cruiser. The original key breaks if you place your toddler on your lap, or your wife starts the car after paying at the supermarket. The YotaMD is a head only tho', if you need key blade (original key sans chip) you find them for 2 £ on fleebay.

TechStream is $30 for cable and disk from china etc.

No whirr looks like the actuator has packed in!

I'll re new the power steering fluid with Dextron 3 cheers!

I'll check the Drive shafts I need to check the bolts anyway.

Yota keys look good..

Thanks will have a look for the tech stream can I program a new key myself?

Another question. What is the plate called underneath the front of the car its steel backed in foam and guards the bottom of the rad etc with a round access hatch for rad drain point? Id like a new one its the only things on the car that seems to have gotten tin worm...

 

[Alrightchief]

The rear locker uses a dog clutch to lock and as already indicated it's very coarse, unlike the sleeve on an 80 front diff. It can take substantial rotation to line it up. Now, even when locked, there is a detent switch on the housing that triggers the lock light on the dash. These are, for some reason, very prone to failure. Easy to test once you have established that the locker motor is whirring. 27mm socket gets it out. It's a ball bearing plunger with an in and out electrical connection. Use a meter or a battery and test bulb to see if it's switching on and off.

Hopefully it's just the detent switch.

Cheers Chris

 

[SafariTecPeter]

• GB Oil & filter? --: No filter on auto box. Regular drain and fill will do if done regularly. There's a special procedure to follow wrt temperature. Easy to do if done right. Remember that filling up to level is done with engine running.

Please elaborate

 

[uHu]

Please elaborate

Hi Peter. I understand that you require a higher level of accuracy here, which is fair.
"No filter on gear box" means that in the list presented, there is no filter to be changed like you change oil and filters on the engine, and oils in all the driveline units. Checking oil strainer in the A750F box is on a bit higher level than routine preventative maintenance.
So, chief, there is an oil strainer inside the oil pan of the gearbox. If taken down for inspection, there is an O-ring to be changed, and also a gasket for the oil pan.

 

[SafariTecPeter]

In all fairness, draining the oil on a autotranny oily gets out a fracture of the content.
Dropping the pan at least adds 1l if not more to the quantity oil having to be replaced. One also gets to inspect & clean the magnets.
On the A750F I have worked on, no dipstick, I used the genuine filter & it comes with a glued on cork gasket.
On some othermodels WITH a dipstick, there is an O-ring where the dipstick enteres the oilpan. It is good practice to replace this.
The use of solid(paper) gaskjets on the bottom pan of these autoboxes differes alot apparently. If one is available, use it

To the OP; U seem to have come agross a fine gem, so I recon that taking the preventive maintenance a step further than replacing a few quarts of oil on a 12-13 year ols trannybox is well worth the hazzle.
M2C

 

[Alrightchief]

In all fairness, draining the oil on a autotranny oily gets out a fracture of the content.
Dropping the pan at least adds 1l if not more to the quantity oil having to be replaced. One also gets to inspect & clean the magnets.
On the A750F I have worked on, no dipstick, I used the genuine filter & it comes with a glued on cork gasket.
On some othermodels WITH a dipstick, there is an O-ring where the dipstick enteres the oilpan. It is good practice to replace this.
The use of solid(paper) gaskjets on the bottom pan of these autoboxes differes alot apparently. If one is available, use it

To the OP; U seem to have come agross a fine gem, so I recon that taking the preventive maintenance a step further than replacing a few quarts of oil on a 12-13 year ols trannybox is well worth the hazzle.
M2C

Thanks guys great info!!!. Yes I think it’s worth it so will get it done. What it the special procedure I need to follow whilst re filling? Someone mentioned running the engine? Also I’m struggling to find info on if 275 65 18 tyres will fit the body and standard alloys without rubbing? I have too sets of wheels and tyres atm I have 16s on with brand new BFG’s (285 75 16) whilst I love the BFG’s they are just not right for me and they slightly rubbing at the rear of the front wheel on the mud guards. Thanks again

 

[SafariTecPeter]

Are U doing this Yourself? If no dipstick, there is a special adaptor used to fill oil into ARM cranckcase.
This filling hole is also the level-indication. The level should be adjusted while the box at XX Temperature & ideling i neutral IIRC.
U will loose some oil here, part of the game.

Reg rubber; U can to a certain extent provide more clearence infront it U tourque up the torsion bars (provided U dont have shitty AHC!!)
If U have someone KNOWING THEIR "SHIT" & being a bit intuitive while adjusting the front suspention (Caster/Camber), U can get up to 1" more clearence towards the rear of the wing /mudguard if setting it up with this in mind.

As we dont know which rims U run, this is abit of a guesstimate....

 

[uHu]

Checking the auto gearbox carefully is good, but might not be required at your mileage unless you suspect or experience any problem. Checking the state of and level of the ATF is good to do in any case. First check that you have the WS version, indicated by the letters WS on the fill plug up on the side of the gearbox. If yes, there's a simple procedure found in the FSM for checking the level and refilling.
There is one refill plug up on the side, one drain plug and one level plug on the underside. There is no need for any special adapter, as long as you do not insert the filling spout/hose more than 30 mm into the fill hole (10 mm is enough) while the engine is running. The only trick is to know when the temperature is right for the level plug to be correct, for which there is a built in feature. You really ought to have the FSM for maintaining and repairing your beloved. Forget about any third party manuals for this car, there is not a single good one. If you don't find one for download before checking your ATF, I can post the procedure here.

 

[Alrightchief]

Checking the auto gearbox carefully is good, but might not be required at your mileage unless you suspect or experience any problem. Checking the state of and level of the ATF is good to do in any case. First check that you have the WS version, indicated by the letters WS on the fill plug up on the side of the gearbox. If yes, there's a simple procedure found in the FSM for checking the level and refilling.
There is one refill plug up on the side, one drain plug and one level plug on the underside. There is no need for any special adapter, as long as you do not insert the filling spout/hose more than 30 mm into the fill hole (10 mm is enough) while the engine is running. The only trick is to know when the temperature is right for the level plug to be correct, for which there is a built in feature. You really ought to have the FSM for maintaining and repairing your beloved. Forget about any third party manuals for this car, there is not a single good one. If you don't find one for download before checking your ATF, I can post the procedure here.

Thanks again I do have the FSM but it seems to be mostly for LHD and for the 4.7 so Im still on the look out for a 100% accurate one. Granted the oil probably doesn't need changing but it cant hurt to be thorough. If you would post the procedure that would be great! then I can compare the FSM I have to it.

 

[uHu]

The procedure for establishing the right temperature is different between uzj and hdj. The many pages on the matter following the basic fluid level check seems to be the same for uzj and hdj, but I haven't checked carefully. Anyhow, the important part is the basic level-check.

 

[Alrightchief]

Brilliant thanks! I'll be on this in the next day or so