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Yet ANOTHER 100 Series Draw Build - Advice Welcome Please


Active Member
Oct 5, 2018
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So, with December almost upon us and hopefully some time off to potter... started final planning for a rear drawer storage system for my 100 series. I'd say from the outset that this is not intended as a hard core expedition storage system, but instead drawing from my own experience of these vehicles as an ideal compromise between sport/leisure and family getaway truck whilst still retaining civilised road manners as an urban daily driver.

One things sorely lacking in these vehicles is secure 'boot' storage, which is where any drawer system immediately comes in handy, but additionally I wanted to incorporate a hidden secret compartment for valuables which could be more securely stored for peace of mind even if the vehicle is broken into and rifled. Obviously, this shortens the available drawer space, but this is a compromise I am happy to live with.

I'd like to have two compact storage compartments accessible from the front of the vehicle, as will be the hidden compartment, behind and accessed through the back of the front facing compartment. Two hinged wings, possibly split into two sections each, and two rear opening drawers then, one shorter than the other, both mounted on full extension 100kg sliders with lock stops. The top deck will be finished with a motor car floor carpet to be hard wearing and to conceal the joint between units and hinged components.

I plan to build the system as two individual units constructed from birch ply with all joints dovetailed taking account of directional force loading... important to loc maximum rigidity and strength not the carcass units particularly since they are separate units which will be tied together when deployed together. Reason for separate units is so that I can remove one if we need to use a 3rd row seat when family and friends come for an extended stay and we need space for kids, but still retain the secure storage of the remaining single box.

Would welcome any feedback from anyone who has tried using or building any of these ideas into their own systems, and happy to be told why this may be a very good or alternatively a very bad idea... lol :grimacing:
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Below are some initial accurately scaled drawings detailing my intentions:

Drawers Proto 1 - LC100 Beastie 1.jpg
Drawers Proto 1 - LC100 Beastie 2.jpg
Drawers Proto 1 - LC100 Beastie 3.jpg
Drawers Proto 1 - LC100 Beastie 4a.jpg
Drawers Proto 1 - LC100 Beastie 5a.jpg
What's NOT good about this?? Its brill, makes great use of space .... not sure why you want 100KG draw runners. I made one for mine with 18mm birch ply, to carry my spare wheel (my LandCruiser is a petrol converted to LPG and the 120L tank hangs where the spare normally fits. I did'nt dove tail my joints OR use runner rails , just good ol-fashioned beez wax - the draw holding the spare is easy gliding in and out and you know how heavy they are! ... secure storage is a 10/10 - easy access via the rear seats when dropped forward too.
Now the boot space has a nice flat floor about 300mm above the normal floor - perfect
Work with a ladder construction for the base as it will reduce weight. You can then secure it to the boot floor using the two tie down points near the mid row seats but you may need to create securing points neer the hatch if you will reinstall the third row.18mm ply for main carcass and 12mm for drawers. No need to dove tail unless you want the aesthetics, pocket hole and pva will be more than adequate. Remove carcass wall excess again to reduce weight.
Carpeting looks good but even after glued and pinned loading can damage it. Use a rubber mat for load surfaces or if insistent on carpet use some Ali strips as runners. The image is part way through my 4th set of drawer systems


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sorry to jump in, that is really good 'Howmanygoes' ... I like. I have LPG conversion on mine - so the spare is in the boot, your solution would allow me to stand my spare and giant wing nut the wheel still AND have space for my everyday toot. I agree the pocket hole and PVA has worked well for years. Rather than bolt down I shaped the base to fit round the wheel arches to avoid movement when heavy braking .... I am going to re-make mine, bolt down - like you. Thanks for the tip, I really appreciate it