Yet another Spill control question

clearlyconfused

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I am in australia
Oct 27, 2018
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Hi Guys,

I have been enjoying this forum a whole lot, you guys have so much information here that makes life a little easier, thanks to the team for compiling and running it
I have a 1kzte - 3.0td 4wd 1995 Granvia, it's more or less a Prado or 90 series Landcruiser.
I imported it from Japan (via NZ) and it's been my faithful beast of burden for over 10 years, I have a trip round the red continent planned so started doing some routine maintenance (rad, water pump, Heater core, aircon) and now on to the injector pump - And that is where I have incurred some problems.

I had an erratic idle for the last 6 months, upto 950 - 1000 rpm at times, others times 800 - 850.
I had poor fuel economy (17MPG) so serviced the filters in the 3 ports that were straight forward (banjo feed, fuel temp sensor, banjo return) and found just the return was a bit blocked. It took a bit of priming and cranking but she started up again and I got 19MPG from hence forth. - All about a month ago -.

I bought the appropriate crows foot (32mm) wrench and tackled the Spill control valve this past weekend, well I was wrapped as by 10am Saturday morning I'd had her all apart, cleaner the gunked up filter under it and then reassembled. But alas, it wont start. Ive tried every series of priming, and testing, charging the battery throughout.

Iv'e had the valve out numerous times more,

Recleaning the filters and testing the valve, I get a variation of readings between 1.0 to 2.5 Ohms.
We hooked up the valve without inserting it and it clicks as you would expect when ignition is set to on position.

Now, i have checked the injectors, and nothing coming out of the 2 closest to the rad. So my question to you very well informed gentlemen is, is it the spill control valve, the relay or a blockage?

The valve is $800 locally and relay $110. (Aliexpress offers me a valve for $275)

Any input at all would be so appreciated, the diesel guys here won't look at it unless its sitting on there bench, at which point I might as well fork out the $2500 Toyota wants for a new one.

I'm open to any ideas!
 

StarCruiser

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Hi, have you actually got the fuel primed? The reason I say this is on our way to Romania last year Shayne was having all sorts of running issues and decided to change his fuel filter. Come the next morning his 90 wouldn’t start, nor would it prime on the primer.

The remedy was to take the return pipe off, Shayne did this at the tank but it could easily have been done anywhere. I then pressurised the tank at the fuel filler, but again this could have been done at the return to the tank until fuel was pushed through and out the return from the pump. His truck started and ran faultlessly after that.

Where you’ve removed and cleaned these filters etc, I presume you’ve maintained 100% clean room style cleanliness to avoid even a grain of dirt getting in?

Finally, it ran before, so it is unlikely to be anything you’ve not disturbed while you’ve been in there. Roughtrax sell spill control valve kits if it turns out to be those.

Good luck with it and keep us posted.

Oh, Welcome to the forum by the way. :)
Rich
 
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clearlyconfused

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I am in australia
Oct 27, 2018
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We checked the primer pump was working, it was pumping fluid to the injector, but ill take your advice and do as you said, sounds like a great idea.

I was vigilant in keeping it clean, but if something got in, is it a matter of disconnecting the injector lines both ends and then back flushing them?
 

StarCruiser

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I was vigilant in keeping it clean, but if something got in, is it a matter of disconnecting the injector lines both ends and then back flushing them?
I’ve no idea TBH. I would say you’re not going to be able to do that due to Delivery non return valves, so a rebuild would almost certainly be necessary. Let’s not go there as you’ve been cautious so let’s assume it’s clean for now.
 
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StarCruiser

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To add, putting a clear piece of fuel hose between the fuel filter and the pump will show any bubbles in the fuel. Running from a can of diesel into the fuel filter will eliminate tank and fuel pipe issues.

There was a member on here that had a blockage in the return line. There is also a filter sock on the tank suction which tends to get gummed up. Blowing air down the fuel delivery line can be a temporary fix otherwise it’s drop the tank and remove the sender/fuel pickup and clean it.
 

Beau

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I am in guyana
Jan 28, 2011
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Milton keynes
Considering you haven't done anything new it should start fine. But I'd make sure the spill control valve is very clean before re-assembly. The bottom piece of the plunger can be separated and cleaned internally too. But it involves prying two tabs on the collar.

These things are generally a pain to bleed when changing filters and messing with the pump. You can easily drain a pair of good batteries with the amount of cranking needed. One quick way I've found is to fit a small 12 v pump inline (between the pump and injector) to push fuel through into the pump. If the pump is full of air it will never generate enough pressure to pull fuel into the pump. If the pump never builds enough pressure it will never open the spill control valve to bleed air/fuel through to the injectors. One other way is to remove the return banjo, and poor diesel into it. Hopefully it's just a air block and nothing mechanical.

Let us know how you get along and good luck
 

Shayne

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I had an erratic idle for the last 6 months, upto 950 - 1000 rpm at times, others times 800 - 850.
I had poor fuel economy (17MPG) so serviced the filters in the 3 ports that were straight forward (banjo feed, fuel temp sensor, banjo return) and found just the return was a bit blocked. It took a bit of priming and cranking but she started up again and I got 19MPG from hence forth. - All about a month ago -.
I'm thinking a boost leak might cause this , i had similar troubles for a while but could find no cause , then i noticed on a certain road while exiting a roundabout and accelerating uphill (a short 50mph stretch) the engine check light would come on , but only until i was up to speed . It never happened anywhere else .

I had everything apart loads of times looking for the leak , but i never once glanced at the crankcase breather pipe , which eventually let me know it was the cause by splitting enough to make a sound that convinced me my turbo was about to explode ............. 4 hours into a 3 day drive :doh:
 

clearlyconfused

New Member
I am in australia
Oct 27, 2018
7
4
3
Oh wow, ok, so turbo is next. Yeah I have been suspicious of it for awhile now, im developing an oil leak there.

I spoke to a diesel specialist in NZ and he told me there is a bleeder valve on top of the injector pump, just to loosen it and prime away by hand. I'll do that on the weekend and let you know.
But thanks about the fuel intake filter, yeah ill do that after the turbo and rocker cover gasket, sh's developed some oil leaks recently.... but thats another story.

Thanks for the input guys!
 

clearlyconfused

New Member
I am in australia
Oct 27, 2018
7
4
3
So update, I have confirmed that the primer pump works well, and by opening the return banjo feed i have filled the pump and fuel filter with diesel. However, i cant get fuel to the injectors still. Ive tried cracking them open and seeing if some fuel comes out when its turning over, no luck yet.
I read elsewhere about presurizing the fuel tank to assist, I did this gently and pumped the primer, and was able to get really good flow out the loosened return valve.

So having confirmed fuel is getting to the spill control valve and stopping, I have decided its time to buy a new valve. I will explore that boost leak today, thanks shayne. I'm doing the rocker cover gasket today and eliminating the ERG valve as well.

Happy driving.
 
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Beau

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I am in guyana
Jan 28, 2011
1,993
283
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Milton keynes
When cranking make sure your RPM on your tach moves (should be about 200rpm). If not, the ECU doesn't know the engine is turning over and won't open that valve. That sensor is a white plug on top of the fuel pump
 

clearlyconfused

New Member
I am in australia
Oct 27, 2018
7
4
3
Hi Beau, thanks for the idea.
I checked that and it's only reading 50rpm. The needle just lifts, not quite even to the first bar.
Does that mean it's not working? Is it a working or not kind of sensor?

I checked codes as well, all is fine.

I don't know if you guys are that familiar with the actual SPV, but mine has recently changed, when i removed it initially, the working end - inside the pump, a 15mm diameter 12mm deep nipple (with small holes in it- for fuel flow im imagining) would spin quite easily, this last time i removed it to check filters again it now seems to have tightened up. Is this a sign its done for?

I'm having trouble getting the Valve supplied, locally it almost 1,000. China doesnt have them and the people I have in NZ (these vans are common there) won't sell me one as they think it's not faulty. Strange I know.
I might end up buying from roughtrax and putting up with the shipping.
 

Beau

Well-Known Member
I am in guyana
Jan 28, 2011
1,993
283
83
Milton keynes
Is your starter turning your motor over strongly? 50rpm is low. Manual says it should be around 200-250rpm. How does it sound? Remove the plug I mentioned and give the contacts a clean, check for broken wires ect. You can also check the resistance of the RPM sensor to see if it's good. I don't recall the value off the top of my head, but it should be in the 1KZ manual

The SCV doesn't need to spin, it just needs to pulse. If sourcing a new valve is a problem, what about a good used condition pump? A little bit more work involved but may work out quicker/cheaper.
 

clearlyconfused

New Member
I am in australia
Oct 27, 2018
7
4
3
So, the new Spill control valve arrived,($350 ex NZ) I fitted it, primed the pump (getting good at that now) cracked the injectors and turned it over, and hey-presto! Fuel out the injectors. Tightened them, and then started again and she ran in under 5 turns!!
So it was definitley the valve, it must have died as I took it out of the car, I wasn't rough on it at all. Strange timing.
As others have written here, on that initial start up the engine did sound very knocky, like the big end was done for. Strange, but it went away.
Thanks for the ideas guys, lots of lessons learnt here.

Ill fine tune the mixture over the coming months now, not big turns, just to minimise black smoke.
 

StarCruiser

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I am in uk
Oct 7, 2014
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So, the new Spill control valve arrived,($350 ex NZ) I fitted it, primed the pump (getting good at that now) cracked the injectors and turned it over, and hey-presto! Fuel out the injectors. Tightened them, and then started again and she ran in under 5 turns!!
So it was definitley the valve, it must have died as I took it out of the car, I wasn't rough on it at all. Strange timing.
As others have written here, on that initial start up the engine did sound very knocky, like the big end was done for. Strange, but it went away.
Thanks for the ideas guys, lots of lessons learnt here.

Ill fine tune the mixture over the coming months now, not big turns, just to minimise black smoke.
Glad you found it CC. :clap::thumbup: Thanks for posting the results.
 
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