FWIW, these are 16x8, -12mm offset, 285/75's relative to USDM flares.
Picked up 5 w/ centers for under USD $500.
BTW, no spacers here.
Spacers work if you're willing to afford the necessary maintenance thereof.
If not, avoid spacers at all costs.
IME the switch alone does not enable a locked center in HI, thereby resulting in speeds above what LO allows w/o ABS.
That requires an additional modification which ensures one will be found at fault in the event of an on-road, at-speed accident.
Indeed they are very strong compared to other available rigs out there. Just mentioning as some guys here will mod to engage lockers independently and it doesn't always work well with just the front diff pulling the truck over a 10 ft rock just to say "they could".
Hopefully no kiss o death...
Just a heads up, the bush collars for the t-case shifter are NLA. We have a vendor who is hand making them:
https://absolute-wits-end.com/80-series-transfer-case-shifter-collar-bushing-sold-individually/
If you want to also address a floppy transmission shifter at the same time, this kit will...
That relay is clearly not up to the task of moving the current demanded by the devices it serves.
Great catch! Could have been a total loss.
Recommend replacing with an up-rated relay for sure.
Careful, that front diff was never intended to carry the full weight of the truck alone. Granted you have some forward propulsion from the rear, but I wouldn't get too crazy till you get that rear lock sorted.
Nice rig, btw. :thumbup:
On USDM models, that button only came from factory on 93 and 94 years. 95+ models automatically locked the center diff when shifted into LO range.
+1 the button can be fitted to all models 93 to 97 as the wiring harness for all models is the same. The plug for the switch is behind a blank...
If by facia kit you're talking about a surround for the faceplate/front of the unit, a double din unit sits fairly tight w/i the double din hole in the dash.
Otherwise, you can get a 8"x8" piece of ABS plastic and easily cut out a surround to fit if you like.
Interesting info here. We in the US are terminally stuck with 12V it seems for most civil applications. I went the other way on my 80 and added (overlaid rather) 24V to the native 12V for all non-OEM devices. Partly because I wanted the runtime, partly because the cost of the wiring required...
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