Recent content by MikeJak

Hey I have one installed and used it quite a bit. It’s solid, well made product. I had to make one extra through hole in the chassis to add 2 bolts but no major mods. To fit the winch I had to hang the control solenoid to one side under the headlight

Agree, that rad is on borrowed time, and if it’s an auto transmission consider yourself lucky if you didn’t get the pink milkshake of doom.. New rad asap

you can get weld on brackets to relocate the shock mount to the outside of the chassis, meant for the 3rd gen 4runner they don't cost much and they set the rear shocks o work at a better angle, easier spot to weld too

wow, that's really strict... they barely poke out of the body. tbh adding the flares from the widebody is quite a big job, the holes are square on the body to fit the original clips, so not easy to drill, and there is the whole door side and sill trim too. I think I did see some flares for the...

I have the V6 too, it does need a bit of throttle on take off but no real hesitation. they are relatively simple engines... air-sprak-fuel are air is pretty easy, check the air filter is clean, clean the maf sensor (can make a big difference) cleaning the IAC valve under the throttle is also a...

Thanks, there is no designated power distribution box in the 90(that I know of at least) apart from spare fuses available. I know a lot of dc-dc don’t need a trigger cable but I went with a renogy as I want to add an in line switch on the trigger cable so I can cut off leisure charging if I know...

Hey thanks, there are some free slots in the fuse box both under the dash and in the engine bay. I run a couple of lines from acc switched ones but for the dc-dc charger I would ideally need an ignition one. Tbh I am being a bit lazy and trying to ask before taking the multimeter and testing all...

in the process of finalizing planning my dual battery set up, going all the way for a dc-dc charger and lithium battery. costly but should last. I need an ignition switcehd feed to let the DC-DC charger know the engine is running, most other low consumption bits of electrics I have done are...

just seen your post, and remembered... I had a similar issue when I first bought my 90... original lights were rusted and the new ones I bought were wired wrong. they have an earth line in the loom but the pins were assembled wrong. I bought the rear lights from ebay, just chinese copies and...

nice, ATs are more fogiving as they tend to have a narrower shoulder. I have 33" Toyo open country mt on mine (-22 offset) and get some scraping on the seam (already trimmed) at compression and full lock with OME lift. recently managed to get hold of some SPC upper arms and cam eliminator tabs...

with the 90 series not being OBDcompliant options are pretty limited on digital gauges, I fitted a voltage gauge in the centre consolle and a coolant temp and a trans oil temp gauge on the A pillar. I'd really like to have a few additional readings available but those are my essentials

there are a few places where the steering can gain play. Bottom up you have the bushes of the steering rack, once worn can allow for the rack to move a bit side to side. the slip joint could be lose (but quite unlikely as they normally are pretty tight) the uni joint can gain a bit of movement...

I have a 3.4 petrol so different engine but one of the first additions I did when I base-lined the truck was adding a coolant temp gauge on the top rad tube, really quick to install and you have constant real undampened reading of your coolant temp. it also gives me the peace of mind of knowing...

A good impact did the tool, it’s easier if you take out the rad that will be drained anyway. You may need an extractor for the pulley too. Mine came out with gentle taps with a soft hammer but they can be a bit sticky.

It’s a good way to go about it…