Recent content by nielsc

Nice, are those the ones from aliexpress for the 70 series?

Just undo the all the bolts and break the sealant and it should come of

This is what came up my mind aswell. With only 3 calipers the pistons might not move far enough to leak internally. With 4 calipers the pistons need to push more fluid and thus perhaps move along an imperfection in the bore wich creates an internal leak.

No shims behind the pads. Faulty master keeps coming up in my mind aswell. I’ve ordered a rebuilt kit, and might just get another new one aswell. The old one that came off was faulty, as the rear part of rear brake piston was broken off and jammed crooked inside the bore, impossible to remove...

I have done this exactly like you described, but I think the line from the Y joint of the front circuit is not connected to the rear circuit. It is only a “signal” line so the LSPV, but fluid cannot go to the rear circuit I think.

I have plugged the outlets of the master and pedal is rock hard, same with the engine running. So I think it checks ok? I removed the ABS pump and temporarily bypassed it with some custom made copper lines, resulting in the same spongy pedal. Because I have braided steel flexible lines that I...

With me it worked really good! The ABS pump went crazy. The MC has been changed for an aftermarket one.

LSPV and arm have been replaced. Literally everything except ABS pump and the booster. Brakes have been bled with the 80 on jackstands, the wheels spinning, and applying the brakes while bleeding each wheel and LSPV, in different orders aswell. This way ABS actuates whilst bleeding. Changed...

All calipers have been rebuilt and move free. Rebuilding the old master is an option indeed. I’ve bled the master by cracking the unions while my pressure bleeder is on it. I think it will be the same result?

I really did not want to open another spongy brakes thread, but after reading so many threads on here and Mud and not finding an answer I am a bit out of options. My 80 has had the low spongt brake pedal for years, and for some reason I figuered it was just an 80 thing, untill a drove a couple...

It's play in crownwheel/pinion, spider gears and halfshaft splines in the spider gears. Not much to do about it except taking everything apart and replacing the diff center and halfshafts and adjusting the diff again.

On the rear the yokes are in line, on the front they are 90 degrees to each other. This is correct I think?

Every year I have to replace my u-joints , they seem to last only 15,000km or so. I have tried genuine, OEM GMB, GKN, etc they all go after a year. My 80 is lifted 3 - 4", front has caster correction bushes, the rear arms are stock. There is play in both slipjoints. I grease them with every...

GKN/Löbro is a good alternative. GKN is a OEM supplier for most German car manufacturers.

I only run SKF or Lobro/Spidan CV's. Really good priced and a quality product. They hold up with 35's and heavy right foot in serious offroad, so thats fine for me.