Couldn't handle the cheap eBay key so got a full set of new locks from Toyota, ignition, doors fuel caps and glove box.... $480
Could have got a set from Toyota with just the ignition and doors, $300
Locksmith wanted $60 to change each fuel cap barrels to match ($120) but that would have left...
Worth pointing out that my aftermarket replacement ignition barrel and door locks have a different cheaper style key to OEM.
Now I need to carry an original key for fuel caps and another for the door/ignition.
You can't get the fuel cap barrels swapped either.....
My money pit of an early 2006 HZJ79R is trying my patience
Sprayed lubricant down the keyhole of the ignition barrel as the key release button was getting sticky.
Now I have to wobble my key to turn on the ignition.
I'm going to assume my ignition barrel was full of gunk...
Early 2006 HZJ79R
When I first twist the knob to turn on my low beam it works fine.
Occasionally when I flick the stalk forward for main beam my lights will go out for 2 or 3 seconds.
After that it usually works fine
Finally ..... the sender on the sub tank had a 'gradual dead' spot so would read different if it was on the flat, slope, going up hill etc...
Ran a wire across the main wiring sender to check the gauge.... showed full
Checked the rear sub tank sender for continuity and ohms resistance...
Bugger.... I'm falling out of love with this car... fuel gauges both went to just about empty at the same time.
If I short out the sub tank it reads full without the engine running.
Alternator voltage with the engine at a tad above tickover after starting is 13.4v and no warning lights