Unlikely the starter motor but wurth a visual check that all plugs are well connected, look at spark plugs for any difference in one or two and check gaps aren’t too wide. Are you running on LPG? Using a diagnostic tool like Techstream could show you which cylinders are the problem. Once you...
Ah, yes, I’d forgotten about the Bluetooth temperature and voltage sensor. That should work to keep the charging at the correct voltage. Can’t see why if cables are sized correctly that your bus system shouldn’t work just fine. I have found with a system in my camper that turning off the battery...
They’re neat pieces of kit, super well made in Aus for under bonnet use in Australian heat to deliver 25A all day long.
Here’s my original thread on them.
https://www.landcruiserclub.net/community/threads/intervolt-dcc-pro-dc-dc-split-charge-system.148666/
As a general rule, unless the battery will deplete before the cable catches fire if short circuited then all smaller cables need appropriate size fuses at the point the size drops to the smaller cable. Seems like that’s what you’re doing. What you’ve suggested in your initial post looks like a...
Can you plug your solar in once you get home? Or even have some permanent panels that you plug in while the cruiser is parked up to keep everything topped up? That would save on the DCDC and give free maintenance charging.
Sounds like you’ve got things sorted for your MPPT etc but if you are in the market for a battery to battery charger that takes solar and can charge a LiFePo4 battery if it has its own BMS then take a look at the Intervolt DCC Pro R2. I have stock of these. There’s a thread on here somewhere...
A disconnect can be a switch, removable fuse, circuit breaker or a relay and you can use as many or as few as you like as long as the cable has protection for its size. A circuit breaker is going to be suitable as long as it is a DC breaker that is thermal and magnetic suitable to break high...
Best to take the solar to your charge controller MPPT and then to the battery directly via a suitable fuse and ideally a disconnect. Take the outputs via a suitably heavy fuse and disconnect to your inverter. Then another disconnect and fuse for your loads to a fuse panel where each load is...
Most interesting info here. Well done finding the TEV as the problem and clearly a thorough check of the replaced part aside from it curing the problem showed it to be faulty. Interesting on the fan hp draw.
Are you sure the TEV was stuck open? Usually with pressure issues it is plugged shut. This can happen if moisture is allowed to enter the AC system and not removed after a careless recharge or a leak. The moisture instantly freezes at the TEV (thermostatic expansion valve) and plugs it solid...
Shayne makes a good point here. Has this fault just appeared or has it appeared at the time of an addition, service, any work on the vehicle? Does if have a tow bar or anything additional that could affect the electronic systems. Also check system voltage and charge voltage. Check for corrosion...
Or is it simply that there’s a bit of water in the fuel and it needs draining out of the fuel filter? I don’t have a 200 so no idea if the fuel filter is the same as my 80 but if it has a screw in base with some wires coming from it then it’ll have a drain that can be unscrewed.
There’s a thread on here (if not more than one) with details about rebuild. There’s a tiny tea strainer type filter on one of the parts that controls the pressure. If this unloader is letting by, it overheats the fluid (did it smell burnt when you changed it?) and makes steering less smooth...
I saw this the other day and reading the comments I’m not sure what effect if any this will have on classic vehicles. Suffice to say, generally, if something is done by a government department ‘for your benefit’ it often turns out differently to advertised.
Anyway, thought this may well impact...
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