Recent content by uHu

For newbies: When adjusting the tension of the belts for the alternator on a 1HD-FTE, the locking bolt (pointing forward) has to be loosened before turning the adjuster bolt (the one seen in the pic above). Getting to the locking bolt requires tools of the right length, and because of the...

The only good alternator is the original one, a Denso, and they can be repaired. There are replacements for sale that will last a year or two, maybe that's what was done 6 mnts ago?

Great plan, and a great cruiser. I hope you and your sister succeed with restoring the beast.

Good point, Antipod, especially for the 4-pot calipers. As water, and any particles dissolved in water, gathers at the bottom; and that both the inlet and the bleeder are at the top of the inner chamber of the caliper; there must be a bit of crud left over at the bottom after a normal, thorough...

Howzit going with the cruiser? Is it a HDJ or a UZJ? (presuming it's not a FZJ or HZJ) Anyhow, to continue the tradition of a common encouragement on this site: :text-worthless:

That's both good and sad news. Very understandable if you have other options when you need a workhorse.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rear-hatch-lock-actuator-repair.246749/

Looks you you have everything covered, but to comment on your drawings in the first post: (mainly in case someone with less experience reads this thread later). Whether the difference between the 4 options matter, depends on the cables sizes, plugs, switches and fuses used; as it takes very...

WhatYaMean Kick in, when not braking? Read the codes. Most problems with ABS and anti skid stem from bad signal from wheel sensors. Either rust on the sprockets or bad connector. Or very different wheel diameters.

A 100-series cruiser is always worth repairing, it's just to find an affordable way to do it with a long lasting result. I suppose it's a V8 gas engine, which I don't know well. There is a reason for blowing the head gaskets, often because of a coolant leak somewhere. Don't now if those heads...

That sounds like a great idea you had there. Thanx for doing the research and testing. How far from the A arm is the new, taller bump stop when unloaded? 70 mm must be nearly twice as tall as the original one. Got any pics?

"Must adhere to the knuckle" - I understand as being the press you use for pressing out the old joint - that the pipe used on the receiving side when removing old one has to press on the arm/knuckle and not on the joint. (I.e. inaccurate translation). I used a sturdy C-clamp to press out the...

Yes, you must be right, forgot about the position of the TBs. But I can't remember there being a problem to remove it.

After undoing the 4 "ends" of the sway bar, it just comes down. There is no need to pull it out at one end/side.

40 series is always ongoing love, labour or not.