My '96 FZJ80, HogarthThe80

[HogarthThe80]

That crack doesn't look particularly catastrophic, and its not near a water jacket, simple stich repair if the rest of the heads ok.

I have been researching this option as well. My deck surface could very well be 100%, even with the crack as is.
One thing I have learned (mainly from the Aussie reads) is of people testing hardness of the head, looking for a rating of 100 or better (Brinell Hardness test). So, doing a hardness test on mine would determine if its usable or not. But again, that is just more diagnostic/labor, so those $4-500 long block's start to look more attractive.

 

[HogarthThe80]

Well got some updates.
I found a used engine out of a '94, ended up only paying $450 for it. 180-190k miles and it was pulled from its original truck for reportedly having 'knock'. It turned over by hand smoothly on all 6 cylinders, so I went ahead and bought it.
Got it home and pulled the valve cover, cam caps, and camshafts, this head looks reallllly good. Nice bronze color to all the internal parts, almost zero sludge build up or deposits, and most importantly, NO cracks!
I will grab some pictures of it this evening after work. It will go to the machine shop for a full valve job, hot tank, clean, and all new guides/seals/keepers.

This engine will get ARP head studs during re-assembly as well, for near-future power-adding endeavors (hint hint).

I found out Treadstone makes a nice cast piece to help with that power-adding:

Now to read up on which T4 framed turbine the 1FZ likes most >

Stay tuned!

-Dustin

 

[HogarthThe80]

Little late getting back to this, but my machine shop turned the valve job around in 6 days! Needless to say I think they were anxious to get some experience on a 1FZ head.
Proof:

Could not be happier with how the head turned out. They only had to shave .006" off the deck surface to ensure flatness, it passed pressure testing with flying colors, and looks damn good cleaned up too.
I also got a chance to re-do my valve cover, which turned out better than expected (still masked in these photos).

My OEM Toyota parts order will be delivered sometime this week, along with an ARP head stud set (203-4205, commonly used 2JZ studs).

Getting closer! This week, I am prepping for the head install; replacing all cooling system rubber, rubber fuel line(s), and cleaning the block surface.

Also, I have been doing some research related to the 1FZ head gasket saga, cracked heads, etc..
I will explain why, more later, as well as why I don't simply 'delete' the EGR system.
I have made the decision to fabricate an external EGR tube for the EGR system.
I.E. one that does not route inside the cylinder head casting.. pictures and updates on that and more soon!

Cheers!

 

[HogarthThe80]

Some picture updates and a 'rough' model of the EGR re-route pipe. I have been busy, just not necessarily in the garage. As of today however, ALL my parts and/or materials have arrived, so I have no excuses now:

'Freeze plugs' I fabricated, a la Water-Jet machine. I made a handful of them (extras are never a bad idea):

IMG_E2319

• HogarthThe80
• Mar 30, 2018

IMG_E2321

• HogarthThe80
• Mar 30, 2018

Drilled/tapped 3/8" NPT hole on bank 2 exhaust manifold, Cylinder 6:

IMG_2304

• HogarthThe80
• Mar 30, 2018

le Pipe:

EGR PIPE

• HogarthThe80
• Mar 30, 2018

All 304 or 316 S.S. - .500" O.D. tubing, .625" O.D. tubing, mating to the .700" O.D. OEM EGR...

I will be forming this pipe over the weekend, and should have it ready to weld by Monday.. Cheers and beers to hoping!

-Dustin

 

[HogarthThe80]

All my materials came in, gotta love on-time parcel service.
To shed a bit of light on why I am making a new EGR pipe:
I sourced a '94 complete 1FZ-FE long block with around 180k on it. It was pulled from its original 80, because of apparent 'bottom end noise', later defined as rod knock. The donor was a one owner truck, with no reported head gasket issues.
I have read a decent amount online about different scenarios, "I need help; HG problems!" threads, etc.. And i began to notice a trend.
175-195k mile engines with proven head gasket failure, usually from the general area of cylinders 5 and 6. Furtherly, I found several instances where owners replacing the HG and R&R'ing the head, where having the same symptoms 20-40k later, and typically to find their original head casting
cracked upon second removal.
I have still yet to find a cracked head scenario on an 80, without an EGR system installed (i.e. models from numerous different markets, except the U.S.) from the factory. This was a big key.
I knew the EGR 'pipe' in OEM form, used a chamber within the head to provide exhaust gas from the right side of the head, to the left. A look closer and I saw the chamber has press-fit steel inserts that line the chamber, what nice heat-sinks..
Sarcasm aside, I concluded the heat from the EGR inside the head casting, could be causing HG failure, followed by cracks in the head, or both simultaneously. This enough to assure me $100 worth of Stainless steel, was worth it on my ~$1500 head/valve job. Oh, and that whole reliability thing Toyota's tend to possess

EGR pipe is almost finished, then to prep and weld it out:

Got close to finishing it tonight, but it got late so I decided to stop while I was ahead!
Its shape took a little different profile than 'prototype', based on my bending abilities being limited, but I think it will work well. 3 years anyway, then its exempt

This is a cheap cut-off saw I got here locally, $48 bucks with 3 discs. Surprisingly it gave me multiple square cuts, on different diameter tubing:

Anxious to finish this up, get my head on, and get the 80 on the road. I am contemplating doing front axle work, and rear wheel bearings while it's 'down', still working out the total $ for those jobs.

 

[HogarthThe80]

Finished the mock up, final part prep and weld-out are all that's left to finish it up:

4 weld beads to lay, I really only wanted to have 2 total, but alas; bending that last 'dog-leg' section to mate with the OE pipe was tricky.

Cheers all!

-Dustin

 

[HogarthThe80]

Well I got this thing all welded out. Welds aren't the most attractive thing to look at (mainly that middle one), but they are functional without a doubt, going to do a little light grinding/sanding around the welds to clean up the tube, but other than that it is finished!
For those wondering, I did this with a Miller 190, wire-feed Mig. 75/25 mix for the gas (my shielded mix was empty :/ )

Re-assembly will start this weekend, with hopes of finishing it by next weekend.

Cheers!

 

[HogarthThe80]

The more and more i explore this website, the more motivation I accumulate to get ole Hogarth back to driveable!

Welp, This is the list to complete by Sunday mid-day, it’s currently Friday evening around 6:00 PM:

1. Tear down ‘lower front’ of engine; replace all oil pump seals, FMS, and timing chain cover gaskets, and reassemble.

2. Replace radiator hoses, one fuel hose and fuel filter.

3. Prep head for install (install intake manifold, EGR/EVAP. Hardware and hoses, EGR pipe, blank plugs/covers)

4. Install head gasket/Head/head studs and torque down head.

5. Install cams/cam caps and valve cover. Install all remaining items (distributor, throttle body, exhaust manifolds, acc. Belts/etc..)

6. Fill with fresh fluids (coolant, oil, fuel), prime oil AND fuel systems.

7. Start

And yes that is a ‘generally’ exact list, second to the FSM procedures of course.

Cheers all, updates with pictures soon!

-Dustin

 

[HogarthThe80]

Wow, Over 3 months later and I have yet to update..

Following my extremely overly ambitious post from April, I discovered first hand how hard 're-sealing' a 1FZ engine, in the chassis can be.

I spent hours, bought tools, returned tools, forgot parts, bought more missing parts, you all know how these things go, but everything I learned about this vehicle specifically is incredibly priceless, and totally worth the effort. Not to mention, all the hiccups along the way offered learning experiences for both my Father and I, he lended-hands on the re-assembly and without him this post would be weeks later.


My pictures of the process are incomplete, mostly because I concentrated on having the engine complete instead ha, Priorities!


Getting to this point felt like a milestone, though I don't think it should have been so difficult, if only Toyota had made that cross member piece a bolt in member?! (you all know what I speak of, the one directly below the No. 1 oil pan) :


No. 1 oil pan out and ready for cleaning:

A little cleaner in this picture, but unfortunately, I don’t have a final cleaned picture before re-install, but I (and my sore-ass hands hah!) can assure it was clean enough to eat dinner off of.

I also took advantage of the opportunity to install the turbo oil drain fitting. I used a bulk head fitting (-10 AN), for ‘future’ use . Sealed it up with a pair of copper crush washers and RTV sealant, tight as a drum! :

Only picture I have of the clean/ready to go Timing chain/Oil pump cover/housing. This got all new o-rings, F.M.S., oil pump rotor gears, drive gear, spring/relief valve, etc.. before re-install :

Here is the casting plug I fabricated/installed to block off the OEM EGR system routing. Went in flush, and .787” diameter was a perfect press-in fit, can’t complain. 316 Stainless for this guy as well, here it is shown in the head :

Also, I used these ARP studs :

Zero issues with fitment on these. I had heard mixed reviews/reads online, but decided if it worked for at least one person, why not for me? I used all ARP washers/nuts, torqued them to the specified rating ARP provides, and I got 100+% nut capture, along with a mm or 2 extra above the nut as well, Noice! :

Read this in the Service manual during re-assembly, my biggest Tq. Wrench only goes to 250 ft./lbs.. I hope it holds! :

Not many ‘go-fast’ parts, but this was one I came up with.. An air-box cool-air feed. It replaces the factory resonator/air intake tubing. Should be good for a few MPGs/or HP’s :

And finally the ‘its all back together’ picture :

The first start-up went extremely well. I got great, fast oil pressure (65-75 psi on the first gauge readings), no strange noises and smooth running. I only got a chance to run it for a couple minutes, before I discovered a fuel leak from the filter area under the manifold (oh bother). Got the filter and hard line out, found a crack in the hard line, so I discarded it.

I am picking up a -4 AN, 19” length flex-hose today to replace the OE hose, and once I install it this evening I should be good for a start-up and actually get it to operating temp, then for a drive! A long, long, awaited drive.

Stayed tuned for updates through this weekend, I will get more pictures of the more impressive areas once I can pull it out of the car-port and clean him up.

Cheers all, and thanks for this forum and all the inspiration the builds on here have given me, its been priceless!

-Dustin

 

[Gary820]

That's a tidy engine bay, I like the oil drain for 'future' plans.

 

[HogarthThe80]

Got it running last night and finally got it to temp. 200-202 degrees F or so on my electric gauge, stock gauge got right up to where it should usually be as well. Full temp. and I still had 20+ psi of oil pressure, good deal! Set the ignition timing to 3 degrees before TDC and it idles smooth, I might advance it a little more later on with better fuel, we will see.
I drove it around our private easement/road, but not out on public roads yet until I get it insured. So far no CELs, woot!

Took the opportunity to wash the worst of the dust/pollen/etc. off while I had him out, and had to stop early because swarming wasp's around the rear of the truck... What a worthless insect.

 

[Gary820]

Looking good, bet it's nice to have it up and running.


That's a very conservative amount of timing, is that in service mode or normal running mode?

I'm running 7 degrees in service mode which is 16 degrees in normal running.

 

[HogarthThe80]

The FSM said set it in Service mode, with the pins jumpered, so I set it to 3 degrees with the connector jumpered.

I will re-read to double check, also want to make sure it’s done in Neutral? Have to believe so being a manual truck would be in neutral for setting the timing as well.

Thanks for the kind words

Cheers!

 

[clivehorridge]

Nice work indeed.... and

On the wasps comment. We’re in the thick of them at the minute with fruit on the trees, a real PITA...

 

[Gary820]

3 degrees in service mode is about right for stock timing, it's probably 9/10 degrees in normal operation.

When you're happy how it's running you can tweak it a bit, gives slightly better mpg and picks up better at lower rpm. Even 5/6 degrees (service mode) will make quite a difference.

Yeah in neutral, air con and electrical loads switched off, engine at operating temp.

 

[HogarthThe80]

That was my plan; get those small fine tune gains after a couple hundred miles. Biggest hurdle currently is getting through the drive cycles for OBD2, readiness, and passing the emissions test.

No lights or codes though currently, I pulled them this evening just to see the Diag. monitors and their status' None had even come out of 'Inc.' (incomplete) status just yet.
Did a short jog up to the corner store today, the truck felt great! I always knew previously it didn't pull as hard as I felt it should, and boy do I have all of that back plus more now, Its snappy!

I am collecting some photos I took this weekend, will have more of an update tomorrow.

 

[HogarthThe80]

So naturally, no one wants to actively ‘look for’ a wasp’s nest, it just gives the feeling of most definite danger ha, but I do need these foul vermin gone.. I lucked out and didn’t have to look too hard.
Found out what all the buzz was about.. :

2 rubber cork plugs, a steel plate, and a large magnet later? They are quarantined.. I then sprayed brake cleaner in a pin hole i drilled in the magnet plate, instant death, no danger to me;

40BC9957-F20C-434B-A7CE-4DF6EF424583

• HogarthThe80
• Jul 23, 2018

Dustin - 1
Wasps - 0