Diff lock help

[Stoddart2000]

Hello I can see me needing a bit of help here.

It’s been a bit of a good news bad news day.
I have just had chance to have a good look around the 100 series I have bought and I was happy to see it does have the rear diff lock.

But bad news is centre lock does not seem to be working so I’ll need to get this going.

The rear locker seems to be in pieces I’ll try attach a few pics.

I would like to eventually have it all working but would be good to get the Centre going at the min

 

[Jon Wildsmith]

Wow, that's a seriously disintegrated actuator, covered in some kind of underseal just for good measure?

 

[Stoddart2000]

I have just bought the car while I was away working overseas and first thing I had done was sent into a place to have all the chassis took back to metal and rust treated painted and sealed.
I’m guessing this was like this before it went it so has been had a good coating of wax oil applied.
Just wondering where to go from here, I would love to try remove it, but feel I may be best leaving till I manage to get hold of a replacement.

 

[BobMurphy]

Been there . . . Done that. . . . Not for someone without some serious tools !

Mine was so corroded I decided to take the diff out and sort it on the bench - that means removing the half shafts.

My rear brake dust shields were falling apart and as they carry part of the handbrake mechanism I replaced them as well (sit down before asking the price ). That means removing the hub bearings, ABS ring & oil seal inner sleeve.

Some pictures.

Here you can see the selector fork that engages the dif locker - its quite different to the locker on the '90-series'.

Here you can see where the operating rod on the actuator is bolted to the selector fork.



I won't clutter this up with pictures of the brake dust shields but only to say - if you intend to do this you will need a rig like this (unless you cut and weld the new ones !):

And don't forget to change the oil seals in the axle tube !

And the best of luck .

Bob.

 

[Stoddart2000]

Bob that is some job you’ve done there,
I’m really hoping I don’t need to go to them extremes of I can see it never getting done.
Appreciate the write up and pics some helpful for when I attempt to remove the old one or what’s left of it.

 

[Stoddart2000]

Forgot to mention I have had a bit of luck,
I found a blown diff 20A fuse on drivers side box.
This has brought the centre diff into life and is all working as far as I can tell.
I’m guessing if someone has tried to function the rear diff in the state it’s in it must have blew the fuse.
I’ve been under and managed to unplug the 2 connectors for rear diff so hopefully no more blown fuses while I’m waiting to source a rear diff.

 

[Spike]

You are going to have some serious fun getting that out! As you can see there are four bolts holding it in on the side, the top rear is a t##t to get to, if you cut the heads of the bolts the remaining studs do come out, (well did on mine) Millners are best price for a new locker just under £500 as I recall, you will also need diff lock protection guard 41467 60050, not that it would offer any serious protection but it has all the bits that the cable harness clips to. There are three switches on the transfer box, the center lock detection switch, the neutral detection switch and the low range detection switch, if as in my case the low range switch has gone (the one at a funny angle) the rear locker won't get a signal and as you can only engage the rear locker in low range it won't work even if new. So that your clear, center lock should engage (solid yellow locker indicator) in either low or high range with console button , center lock should also automatically lock when you engage low range and when you engage your rear locker your ABS light should come on as well as the solid red locker indicator. Both lockers often take sometime to line up so you might get flashing indicators for a while. Good luck!

 

[Stoddart2000]

Hello, after a bit of advice I’ve managed to get hold of a rear diff lock actuator that I was sold it as been listed for 100 series.
I have since received and it is not the same as the one installed.
I think it is from an 80 series.
I have changed the connector over and tested on car and it all seems to work okay.
Only thing I can spot different is a breather hose on the unit itself.
Should this work okay?

 

[Stoddart2000]

Well finally got round to it today.
The old one was completely rotten, literally crumbled away and this did help getting to bolts.
Luckily I got 4 new bolts from Toyota as everyone was no good and needed a Ford hammering on.
Sensor is all good as well so was happy about that.
Went and found a gravel car park and I now have fully working diff locks.
Thank you for all the help and pictures.