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Fob stopped working could it be something i did ?

Shayne

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Feb 2, 2013
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Rewired the tow socket .
Broke reverse cam wire so had radio out of dash .
Drained 12v batteries so low they wouldn't start the truck .

New battery in the fob .
 
Do the fob lights work?
If they do, try pressing either button twice to re-snyc with the ECU.
 
One of my fobs started playing silly buggers, sometimes it would light, sometimes not and even when it did nothing would happen. I ended up replacing the buttons and it'd been fine since. It does seem a bit of a coincidence though that it's packed up after you've been tinkering.
 
I've rebuild all my fobs one way or another , because i was changing the battery i swapped the case while i was at it , bought a few original as spares long ago .

Finding that a paper punch gives you the perfect size to fit a bit of plastic inside the button rubber for better contact was a good one .
 
The buttons themselves are the 4 contact type so I surmised that one or more of the contacts had turned bad.
 
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Yeah they do that and it can be repaired they just solder a new one onto the board
 
Thinking on this while buggering about with wheel alignment , it occurs to me that locking unlocking with the key several times the past few days I have not once heard the alarm which i'm sure happened whilst doing the same in the past :think:
 
Its something in the tailgate i think , I have a door open warning flickering on the dash .
 
The alarm and central locking are two entirely separate systems, the alarm having an interface that links into the CL. A door ajar will certainly prevent the alarm fob from operating the CL but the key will operate the locks as normal.
The fob sets the alarm and operates the CL so if you then open it with the key the alarm will trigger.
You can use the key for locking/unlocking as if there is no alarm fitted.
 
When a door is open you can lock the other doors with the key, then when you shut the open door it slam locks but you can't do anything with the fob with a door open. At least, that's how mine works.
 
Yeah thats what i meant , both fob and alarm are disabled because they think a door is open . Flickering dash warning because when i'm driving the loose connection gets rattled in and out of contact .
 
Looks like this might be the problem which is a headache if it’s the switch . Surely a dicky bulb can’t disable fob and alarm .
 
Vid won’t post .

Press rubber stopper switch on body and the little light inside the door flickers , though the light remains solid on when the switch is not compressed
 
Central locking works when sat inside the truck and using the door controls .
 
Not the switch nor the earth at the switch or the bulb . So has to be something i did when i had the double din out .
 
Always when i don't have time to mess with it :roll:

Replaced switch with a spare and both do the same so its a bad earth somewhere and I have no idea where to look .

Thursday I'm on the road again to a hateful place where nothing gets done .
 
The door switches are open circuit with the door closed and apply an earth when the door is opened. If all the switches are OK I'd say it's more likely you have an earth contact where there shouldn't be one, bringing the warning light up, rather than a bad earth,
 
Makes sense , behind the door card maybe ?.

Its been messed with before because its not a factory connector but other than immediately behind the switch all wires run into a heavy protective tube/sheaf /conduit .

Only other possibility is I run a new reverse wire from radio behind glove box and taped it to the loom in foot well .

I have a suspicion though that a passenger told me the light was still on when driving a couple of months ago though i can't be sure .
 
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