Search results

When a door is open you can lock the other doors with the key, then when you shut the open door it slam locks but you can't do anything with the fob with a door open. At least, that's how mine works.

When I has to fit a new ball joint on the rod to the Pitman arm I had to take the whole arm off and use some heat to free off both ends as they were TIGHT! Once freed I wound both ball joints fully in and out a few times smothered in marine grease. That was a few years ago and I can still turn...

The alarm and central locking are two entirely separate systems, the alarm having an interface that links into the CL. A door ajar will certainly prevent the alarm fob from operating the CL but the key will operate the locks as normal. The fob sets the alarm and operates the CL so if you then...

This is the approach I've adopted in addition to treating any rust I find (and can get to ) with Aquasteel. I'm undecided how much better the various lanolin treatments are, if at all. They're certainly more expensive. I used to swear by Waxoyl years ago but no longer rate it that much.

I got fed up with Windows over a decade ago so any Windows shite wouldn't apply to me anyway running OS on Mac and Ipad. I had the same problem using both Mac and Ipad on another forum, a while back, that was running the same platform but they did something and it's been fine since. The Mac is...

The buttons themselves are the 4 contact type so I surmised that one or more of the contacts had turned bad.

The forum has become virtually unusable on my MAC running Safari, with page timeout and no response errors. I don't have any problems with any other website. Ipad isn't too bad.

One of my fobs started playing silly buggers, sometimes it would light, sometimes not and even when it did nothing would happen. I ended up replacing the buttons and it'd been fine since. It does seem a bit of a coincidence though that it's packed up after you've been tinkering.

Do the fob lights work? If they do, try pressing either button twice to re-snyc with the ECU.

As the reservoir on the 80 isn't the screw down type I made a cap that clamps down on the rim so I use the Gunsons pressure bleeder. I've also just bought one of these...Piston Tool....ready for the fitting of some new pads instead of using an adjustable wrench like I've done in the past.

I use an Ashton branded gun which is virtually identical to this one except mine has a flexible hose.............GREASE GUN Can't remember exactly when I bought it but it must be 25+ years ago.

If the click is loud enough to hear inside the vehicle I'd say it's probably coming from the solenoid. That's easy enough to check if you can get someone to turn the key with you under the bonnet. If that's operating then it must be a bad connection to the starter itself which comes direct from...

This is interesting. I've just checked mine and there is no "Fog" fuse! The owner's manual shows "NoCircuit" for the fog light fuse so they must be wired into the headlight circuit. I seem to remember reading something somewhere that the rear fogs for UK soec 80's were added by Toyota UK after...

A missing fuse means nopower to fog circuit. It sounds like the fog lights were connected to the lighting circuit at the tow socket some how.

The switch doesn't light up, at least on mine it doesn't. There is a warning light on the far left of the dashboard. The switch is a passive latching type so the actual button position is the same on or off. Use of rear fog lights at night in clear condition is deemed a hazard to following...

If you can't find an OEM part you could easily make one from some rubber sheet using the one you have as a pattern.

When I overhauled the brakes a few years ago with new rear callipers, a bit of new copper line and new flexy hoses I rebuilt the front callipers with new seals. I emptied the front lines with the pressure bleeder before removing the callipers and there was very little fluid left in them when I...

If you consider AT's fill the gap between road tyres and MT types, some, like the BFG AT's look much closer to the MT end than the Yoko G015's I've just put on the 80. Given my 90% + road use the Yokos should suit me better but I can't really fault the BFG's I had on for 12yrs, other than the...

I'm inclined to trust the Toyota FSM rather than any third party workshop manual.

The local test station I take mine to told me last year that all MOT stations are to be monitored directly by the DVSA with new test equipment linked to them by the internet so test results can be seen in real time together with internet linked cameras to make sure testing staff are performing a...

I changed the brake fluid using one of those pressure bleeders (Gunsons I think) that pushes fluid through from the reservoir rather than sucking it through from the caliper end. I've never actually split a caliper but I assume they are designed so the fluid flows through the entire caliper...

Not come across that but it reads much like ACF50 but much cheaper.

The 1FZ-FE (petrol) doesn't have a turbo AFAIK. Exhaust emissions tests were tightened a bit last year which could explain why it passed in the past (eh?) and fails now. Emissions test

High Nox emissions can be caused by excessively high combustion temperatures from running lean/incorrect AFR. If CO and HC emissions are OK then I doubt the CAT is at fault.

I've seen big US V8's transplanted into 80 series but I've often wondered if the petrol V8 (2UZ-FE) from the 100 series would fit. A whole lot more work no doubt than fitting a later 1H series diesel but doable I suppose if you have deep enough pockets. With any of the later engines one of the...

Thanks Andy. After a bit of googling yesterday I dropped the wheel off at RS Alloys at Hillsborough. They said they'll get the wheel done quickly as it's my spare even though they're extremely busy which I can believe going on the number of wheels they have in the place and cars parked up on...

Checked the pressures today and they ranged from 36-39psi so I've dropped them down to the 32 recommended in the handbook and it's slightly improved the ride even further. Just found out today that Metal Magic powder coaters in Barnsley are no longer trading which is a shame because I want the...

Found this short video today. I had one just like it, a 1974 I bought in 1980. Certainly the quickest car I ever owned and I had a 3Ltr Capri before it. Effortless performance from the big V12 with single figure MPG on the commute but I did once get 15 on a restrained run down to Santa...

The ride does feels softer, more comfortable, not by a huge amount but noticeable. I thought I may be imagining it on the way home but I've since been out in it again and it's definitely there. This could be down to 2ply sidewalls and new, more compliant rubber vs the 3ply and age hardened...

New Yokohamas fitted today. Wheels were torqued up to 131Nm/96lb/ft although the owner's manual states 103NM/76lb/ft which is what I've been using for some time after shearing a stud off when using a breaker bar instead of a torque wrench in a previous life but I'm better now. When I queried the...

I also keep written service records in a small note book, as most probably do, simply because my memory is rubbish. I also write dates/mileages on filters for at-a-glance checks. Wether or not it counts for much come sale time is debatable but it has to be better than no history at all.

HDJ80 front wing HDJ80 front wing 2

When I fitted a new condenser and drier several years ago I smeared silicone grease over the new O rings and joint surfaces and had no problems since.

Just ordered a set, for fitting on Bank Holiday Monday, at a price that was, indeed cheaper than any quote I got from local tyre fitting shops.

Has anyone used the Blackcicles.com site to source and buy tyres. I can't find a local tyre shop that stocks them (Geolandars) but you can buy on Blackcircles at very favourable prices and have them fitted at a number of local tyre shops.

Turns out the Geolander is no longer available with the white lettering which isn't a deal breaker. They are cheaper than the BFG's but not by a huge amount, plus I still have a good BFG spare so it's the cost of 4 new BFG's vs 5 Geolandars.

After much googling I'm edging towards the Yokohama's as they get good reviews and probably suit my 100% road use better, the only "problem" being I can't find any one local who stocks them but they can be ordered in. Plus, the tart in me quite likes the raised white lettering and I'm not sure...

My car insurance is due in August and I'm expecting (hoping) for a reduction this year. I've just renewed a bike policy due June 1st and it's come down £250 which is a 38% reduction over last year! :thumbup:

The tyres on the LC are now 12 years old but still with a lot of tread left. I noticed some further deterioration today, obviously helped by some kerb scrubbing but that's my bad! I asked the MOT guy last September about the fine, peripheral age cracking and he said it's not an issue but this...

ACF50 is dielectric and supposed to be safe on HV electrics/electronics. I've used it on 2.5Kv with no issues.

If I was having a vehicle cleaned and detailed back to like new condition I wouldn't want to leave it like that if it was a daily driver. I would apply some sort of protective treatment wether it's additional paint in certain areas, ACF50, Corrosion Block, Lanoguard etc..etc. That's the first...

A neighbour of ours back in the early 70's used to spray old engine oil underneath and inside the body panels of his car. It was a big Vauxhall, possibly a Cresta or a Viscount. He's had it 9 years when we moved house in '77 and it looked liked new but his drive was an environmental disaster.

I fitted a catch can from a Vauxhall car which works a treat. It offers no back pressure to the crankcase breather so is not detrimental in any way. I just flush it out every 2-3k miles or so.

That is a lot of oil. Some is originating from the crankcase breather, they nearly all do it but there could also be some from the turbo. Remove and flush out the intake pipe from the filter housing to the turbo and maybe fit an oil catch can in the breather hose from the rocket cover which will...

For the UK climate, 10w40 or 15w40, API CD/CE/CF and shop around for whatever is on offer. The 1H series are old, comparatively dirty engines so won't benefit from the latest spec oils aimed at long drain intervals.

As you know, the speedometer on later models is electrical as opposed to cable driven but I should imagine the CC setup is very similar if not the same. From the FSM showing component layout: