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That looks like a simple rotational speed sensor which provides an electrical signal for the ECU which is probably inside the vehicle somewhere, possibly behind one of the footwell kick panels

There were no tie down points. When I bought it there was a large chrome bullbar fitted and the mounting brackets bolted to the chassis where, I suspect, there were some originally, three threaded holes tapped to M12 IIRC.

There are combines ball/jaw and pin hitches available...

I'm no expert but I do know you should never use a tow ball like that. A jaw and pin type hitch is much safer. You're correct about the tie down points, that's all they're good for.

Unless you're planning on returning the 100 series sensors to Amayama, couldn't they be modified to fit the 80 series or are they a totally different, size and shape etc? An ABS sensor is just a magnetic pickup with a bit of wire and a plug

He certainly wouldn't. I got a MOT advisory last year for, "Underside heavily greased/oiled". :lol:

A bit of small scale maintenance. Rescued a faulty key fob with a couple of new buttons for the princely sum of £1.40!:icon-biggrin: These fobs were discontinued years ago and good refurbs are quite expensive if you can find one. When this one failed I was down to one fob which worried me...

Back for me too, plus the site is playing silly buggers again. ....etc...etc. A right PITA.

"Just"..........practically guaranteed to put the kybosh on any job!:laughing-rolling:

Why not just stick one of those UK stickers on the back and peel it off when you get back? Much cheaper and a lot less faff, even without things going wrong.

Yes, it grounds through the bulb filaments. The sidelight circuit also lights the dashboard instruments and switches so many bulbs to remove! The +12v supply must have a path to earth or no current will flow. Imagine you are dealing with one bulb, one side is connected to earth and the other to...

Isn't that the whole point of the blind, to stop a sudden inrush of water through the rad to hit the fan?

If the fag lighter lights up with the sidelights there'll be other bulbs in the circuit giving a path to earth.

Are you testing the + wire while still connected to the bulb?

Some do and some don't. You'd have to check the spec of your particular battery/BMS. The primary function of the BMS is to provide the correct charging regime and prevent over discharge by monitoring individual cell voltage.

IMO the rad blind is aimed more at wading protection rather than cold weather. Mine has one and I haven't noticed any appreciable difference in warm up times in Winter with it up or down.

Quite a list of fails there.

I have a pair of large steel ramps stashed away in the garage but for a job where I just need a few extra inches clearance I made these from a railway sleeper which gives an extra 5 inches lift. No good if you want the wheels off the ground of course but, kept at the side of the garden shed they...

If they're anything like mine they just stick onto the window frame with 3M tape, no clips involved.

I use a few drops of diff oil on door hinges, graphite on lock barrels and white grease on the linkages. I mixed some graphite powder with acetone which I keep in a small squeezy bottle with a spout. It penetrates well and evaporates to leave a dry graphite lube.

We still use our GF grill occasionally. I use the air fryer a lot but lost the need for a hair dryer back in the 1980's.

I roughened the bottom of the dipstick with some emery paper so it holds more oil and makes it easier to see the level with new oil.

Anyone of a certain age will remember the "Rumble in the Jungle" from an era when boxing was actually worth watching with non of this multi belt, pay per view nonsense. RIP George Foreman

Decoding the VIN came up with a build date of March'97 although it looks like it's a bit earlier on the production run than your's Andy. Possibly sat in a showroom for a while. I'm sure I've seen a '98 S reg for sale on the net in the past. There must be a few.

One of the 80 series' biggest strengths is what it hasn't got, more than what it has IMO. Electronics! Compared to a modern SUV an 80 is quite unrefined and lacks "facilities" but I'll stick with analogue thankyou. I still have the original bill for mine somewhere at just over £38k, registered...

I'd probably swear a bit but it wouldn't bother me unduly. Even if you left it in, 100ml in a 8L fill is only 1.25% and is obviously much less than that if you drained it immediately, plus hydraulic oil does have some lubrication properties. It's not as if you've put old chip fat in the sump.

Definitely not OEM IMO. It's just a generic rocker switch mounted into an OEM blank. As suggested, probably some sort of external lighting, hence the need for an illuminated switch.

Electrically, all the above diagrams amount to the same thing as everything is connected in parallel. I'm assuming your solar would have some form of output/charge controller.

I think the most important takeaway here is run it as little as possible until you find the cause. If it is bottom end it could rapidly turn into a catastrophic failure and huge expense.

The mirror glass in my drivers side motor started wobbling and lost electric adjustment when two plastic upper locating lugs on the mirror mechanism broke off. I made some new anchor points out of some aluminium sheet and screwed/glued it to the mirror back. It's been fine since with full...

Are you 100% sure its a grey wire and not a faded white which would be ground?

It does sound like a top end/cylinder head problem but, given the big end issue some 1HD-T's suffered you have to suspect those. Fortunately they're (relatively) easy to check/replace with the engine insitu.

Pretty sure the damper mine has some flats which you can get a slim spanner onto.

Sticking/binding handbrake shoes can give the symptoms you describe. It's more likely to happen after adjusting the handbrake and setting the shoes with insufficient free play as I have done a couple of times. Initially all seems well but the binding causes the brakes to heat up and you get a...

It may be possible to get it TIG welded. Find a good welder for his opinion. I've seen cracked motorcycle engine cases welded insitu.

OK, from your description of the fob and the diagram I would say it's not the TVSS system. This is the fob for the TVSS...... TVSS Problems

You don't say what year the truck is but if it's a UK spec 1HD-FT I'd say It's more likely to have the TVSS system fitted which is just an alarm and not an immobiliser, at least it is on mine. The fob arms/disarms the alarm and locks/unlocks the doors with appropriate indicator flashes. The...

Years ago, a workmate of mine mixed 80w gearbox oil with the engine oil in his knackered Triumph Dolomite to stop the low oil pressure light coming on and it worked long enough for him to sell it. It also quietened the engine down somewhat.:laughing-rolling: My understanding of oil specs is that...

Any chrome wheel nuts are going to suffer with the loosening/tightening process which will eventually damage the chrome finish. When I had my wheels refurbed I looked for some stainless steel replacements but couldn't find any at the time and as already mentioned, OEM items are very expensive...

There's a valve mounted on the front of the pump which could be the outlet.

I thought the vacuum is used to open the turbo waste gate and dump boost so if there was little or no vacuum the turbo would over boost, opposite to what you are experiencing.

Complete pumps and some parts still available. Looks like it works similar to a Rotary engine with a rotor and replaceable tips........ Vacuum pump

They're great at removing snow from the lights. Driving through heavy snow it tends to stick to the lenses due to lack of heat from the LED bulbs. I reckon they'd also be good at shifting mud if off road.