"Stone Chip" is probo the best. Used on sills before painting the top coat. Even new cars have it. You will need a compressor etc though. I used it on my railing posts before they went into wet concrete 30 years ago. Still rubbery and no rust creeping up from the ground.
If you have a genuine OEM alternator they are VERY well made and designed and easy to work on. I stripped mine right down and reassembled it just for maintenance. You might need a camera or mark certain items, can't remember exactly. No special tools or soldering iron required.
I don't know what your Milner cylinder is like but the steering damper/shock absorber they supplied to me was about as strong as a bicycle pump. Their online picture of said item showed an OEM one !! Also it was too short so when on full lock was likely to be torn apart or crushed. If you have...
Light has settled down now. Goes off after 2 minutes running and stays off until engine cold. On Utube I saw a ruined, quite modern, Bentley engine which had run dry of coolant and seized. The plastic inlet pipe to the rad had broken. The broken part was still in the now disconnected top...
Parts prices as well!! My friends son has an old Aston Martin Vanquish. Failed MOT for a faulty rear tail light. £3,100 + VAT not fitted. Dread to think what a current model price would be.
Then when you've bought your shiny new car you are treated badly by the main dealer. VW Stourbridge are beyond words having told me a pack of lies about faults on my new Golf. And I was working on cars aged 14 long before any of the techs had been born. In the end I went to reception and asked...
I see new car sales are very down. eg VW have closed 2 factories. What the hell is going on? Are people frightened of buying ICE cars and are they put off by the complexity and cost of repairing those ICE available? I see Ford and Toyota Landcruisers in USA are in big trouble with unreliable...
Something's bust in the transfer I would think. I've taken mine out (= Broken?) and I still have drive. Be an interesting story when completed. An oil drop might reveal metal swarf.
"Iconic" Auctioneers have just auctioned, today, a restored 70 VX for hammer £19,000 at NEC. Buyers commission at 12.5 % on top. LOT 115 and plenty of pictures there.
Fed up with getting covered with coolant every time I drain it so fitted a drain tap in the bottom hose. I had some thick walled brass tube in stock so cut it to length and then swaged the ends, drilled a hole to take a tap I had. Quick oxy acetylene and silver solder to make a sound job. Just a...
Unless you have done loads of cambelt replacements and have acquired sufficient confidence it is best to hold the cam' with a spanner to keep your heartrate down and keep a clear head.
My whine was throttle dependant, not road speed or gear dependant. Have a look at the egr valves. You might see a small gap between one and its ally flange. No idea why my manifold suddenly warped.
I had a VERY strange whine, more like a whistle. Turned out to be a warped EGR aluminium manifold . The metal gasket was acting like a reed. A quick file back to flat sorted that.
The factory workshop manual will give the spec' on how tight the chain should be. It would not cause car to pull to one side though unless you have wheelspin.
I would jack front wheels off ground engine OFF. You should be able to push/pull the wheels from lock to lock even with faulty pump. If not steering itself might be stiff.
Solved by ECU supplied by 80 breaker. BTW no light is not a failure so one can take the bulb out. The only fail is where there is a lit warning lamp. This is on a Government website and also confirmed by my tester. Rather have it working properly though.
I found a site online (now lost) with all the specs over the years listed. Looks like 80s should be running on old style G11. I'm not confident that Toyota would supply the correct antifreeze.
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