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Bigger wheels/tyres?

There’s a product called Nylog that keeps the o ring lubricated and prevents corrosion under/around the o ring.

Are you sure the original radiator wasn’t clogged up, and the new aftermarket ome just isn’t up to the job?

Strange MOT history, as in only one MOT that was last year, yet marked on AT as not imported and 4 owners.

Jack it up so you get full suspension droop.

I’ve still got his grill somewhere. Probably stashed away with my bread maker, toasted sandwich maker, and soon to be joined by an air fryer.

Just measure them. If they’re not exactly the same as your old ones, they aint going to fit.

A stuck open TXV won’t cause high pressure, in fact the opposite, and the compressor won’t have to work harder as its not pumping against anything.

I’ve used 1000 clear, ML, and the 4941. ML is supposed to be better where rust exists. My old LC got ML first, then the 4941 over the top. Has held up pretty well, just a bit dry in places, that I then rejuvinate with ML. My new Jimny got ML, overcoated with 77B wax on the high wear areas and...

What does it protect shock absorbers against?

Everything us correct except ‘Fuel type’.

I’ll have a word withToyota GB after the holidays and see if they can offer anything. If not, it will be a cut and paste jobby with an official looking header.

Tried that already, but no beno.

They want either something from the garage that did the conversion! Or if I bought it like it, proof of purchase and a letter from an independant engineer to say it has been converted, or a letter from the manufacturer, therefore I considering a C of C. Dont know why it says petrol, as always...

I need to get something fromToyota GB to say my 80 was supplied with a diesel engine, because the V5 says petrol, and I would like it corrected before possible sale. According to their website a Cof C is only available for vehicles after 1996. So what can I do?

’Please except my aplogies’

Prob find all the wires going to/from it have corroded away. Give ’em a tug.

Probably more a case of ‘they all do that’, at least mine has for the last 26 years anyway. Not too bad usually, but a bit harsh if you back off just before it changes.

I usually tighten it after tightening the mounting bolt, but I dont think it makes much difference. The bigger problem is usually that that adjusting bolt is often badly corroded and doesnt turn.

Probably asian markets that always had indicators on the right. Europe has always had them on the left.

Only some LHD markets have them that way,but dontknow which.

The blank has a bosch part number, as its used to blank new pumps. You’ll also have to bypass the water hoses.

25nm?

No, the crank is in the way.

You domt want any sealants in there, can cause more problems.

Depends how much gas comes out. If its a lot less than it should be, then you have a leak. They usually stick some dye (which contains oil) back in when charging. This may have been done on a previous occasion as well, so worth a look with a UV lamp.

In theory he will need to remove the existing gas, and weigh it. Then you will know how much (if any) has been lost, and decide if you have a leak, or just a bit of natural loss. When recovering the gas, some oil may come with it and this should be measured, and the same amount replaced when...

Many japanese cars have batteries with tiny terminals, I know my Jimny does. But those aren’t the tiny ones, just look a bit smaller. Possible cheapy chinese ones, as muchof their stuff is almost right.

The Dinitrol ML I coated my Jimny with 3 years ago is still there. The high wear areas I went over the ML with Dinitrol 77B wax. It doesnt get used a great deal, but all the product is still there. My berlingo van was done not very well by me 4 years ago (at 3 years old) with ML, and most of...

There’s a fairly active FB group Toyota Landcruiser - Sverige

Dodgy earth from engine to chassis?

They get corrosion on the ally that eats under the seal, so a nice gentle clean and a new seal should do the trick.

Where is the compressor leaking from.

In which case it is recommended to flush the system and start from fresh. In reality, do as you say and add the oil for condenser and drier, and make a guess for the compressor. Some compressor come completely full of oil, which is way too much. Some come empty.

Yrs, you drain and refill with the same amount you got out the old one, plus maybe 20ml

You might be able to get a seal kit from Toyota

Swing by if you’re passing me in Sweden.

There are recognised tests for corrosion prevention products, salt spray tests. People like Dinitrol and Bilt Hamber have done these and publish the results. The makers of Lanoguatd say they wont do the tests as they’re not relevant to underbody car protection, even though the tests are...

Just open the tap, gravity does the rest

You need something for the weekend, sir?

Probably has a variable displacement compressor, not the old style on/off, so the engine management takes care of the load and keeps the idle stable. One of the complaints of the old compressors was the banging on and off and engine surging.

The genuine ones come apart with the tube method. Aftermarket ones usually need more brutal methods.

If you have a dipstick tube, you can suck it out and measure, replace the same qty. Do it a few times, and then everytime you change engine oil. The filter on older transmissions was just a gauze strainer, and little point in replacing.

And I would imagine the whole thing would fall apart. But then there is no reason for the woodruff key to break really, unless the nut came lose, but you’dd probably know about that fairly quickly.

Doesnt the bottom pully have rubber isolation harmonic thingy? In which vase it may be broken so the inner is turning , but not the outer. Have you checked if the whole lot has stopped turning, or just the outer.

I would suspect everything before the valve tbh, like freezing inside the drier. But normally if there is a blockage you will see a vacuum on one gauge. Also worth sucking everything out and weighing to check the correct weight as a starting po8nt.

Autodata says 30ml for the condensor and 12ml for the drier, plus of course what got removed with the gas. Yes the oil can be added by the machine, or you can put it in the components before fitting. When the ac stops, is the compressor still turning, and what are the pressures when the ac...

What is wrong witht the expansion valve?

You’ll have trouble getting anything out of those two. I’ll look in my book tomorrow for the recommended amounts.

Recovering the refrigerant may remove some oil, and this qty should be noted. There are also industry standard qtys that are replaced when components are replaces. A decent ac guy will know theses. Its all a bit of a guess, but isnt super critical, just not way too much or too little.