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Great plan, and a great cruiser. I hope you and your sister succeed with restoring the beast.

Good point, Antipod, especially for the 4-pot calipers. As water, and any particles dissolved in water, gathers at the bottom; and that both the inlet and the bleeder are at the top of the inner chamber of the caliper; there must be a bit of crud left over at the bottom after a normal, thorough...

Howzit going with the cruiser? Is it a HDJ or a UZJ? (presuming it's not a FZJ or HZJ) Anyhow, to continue the tradition of a common encouragement on this site: :text-worthless:

That's both good and sad news. Very understandable if you have other options when you need a workhorse.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rear-hatch-lock-actuator-repair.246749/

Looks you you have everything covered, but to comment on your drawings in the first post: (mainly in case someone with less experience reads this thread later). Whether the difference between the 4 options matter, depends on the cables sizes, plugs, switches and fuses used; as it takes very...

WhatYaMean Kick in, when not braking? Read the codes. Most problems with ABS and anti skid stem from bad signal from wheel sensors. Either rust on the sprockets or bad connector. Or very different wheel diameters.

A 100-series cruiser is always worth repairing, it's just to find an affordable way to do it with a long lasting result. I suppose it's a V8 gas engine, which I don't know well. There is a reason for blowing the head gaskets, often because of a coolant leak somewhere. Don't now if those heads...

That sounds like a great idea you had there. Thanx for doing the research and testing. How far from the A arm is the new, taller bump stop when unloaded? 70 mm must be nearly twice as tall as the original one. Got any pics?

"Must adhere to the knuckle" - I understand as being the press you use for pressing out the old joint - that the pipe used on the receiving side when removing old one has to press on the arm/knuckle and not on the joint. (I.e. inaccurate translation). I used a sturdy C-clamp to press out the...

Yes, you must be right, forgot about the position of the TBs. But I can't remember there being a problem to remove it.

After undoing the 4 "ends" of the sway bar, it just comes down. There is no need to pull it out at one end/side.

40 series is always ongoing love, labour or not.

Will go, but not this year. Is that on the western coast? Pics?

The 2004 100-series would have a A750F box, not a 442. Don't know if the converter was the same tho'

That one looks like a good, modern version. If we are lucky it also takes the older M-OBD protocol which we need for the HDJ00. In the description from the seller it says: "Specifications: Windows-based software for Toyota and Lexus vehicles Requires VIM to connect with vehicle "Legacy" module...

Pics of your rear plough? Dreaming of doing up my 100 with front and rear steel bars. First pick it apart completely to get rid of rust, and then put it together with only good parts, new pipes, etc. -- If I only had a place to do it.

Could it be that the pressure sensor is at fault, not reporting the right pressure? (Looks like your pressure reading is from the scan tool only, in which case you haven't verified the actual pressure, and the ECM could be as fooled as you are)

Yes, that sounds normal. Did you look at the schematics? The earth connection goes through a few plugs, which have to be located and tested. But, to start off, you need to measure earth connection from the actual connection point on the relays to a known good earth, and the same from the rdl...

Check earth point at left rear quarter panel, and under front of RH front seat. That's where the relays in the control unit, and the RDL detect.switch take their earth from. Both the CDL and RDL lights get +12v from the same fuse, 7.5A MET. The RDL motor gets it's earth from "Set bolt of cowl...

That sounds overly complicated. The beauty of the original 80 and 100 series cyclone filter is that it's made for "blow, rinse and reuse, for life". Change every half a million miles, or thereabouts. In the mean time, just blow off loose dust with compressed air, then rinse in a bucket (agitate...

:text-worthless:

Welcome John. Sounds like a great asset having you on the forum, also with pics of that 40. I can't contribute much on that vintage, but I do love 40s as centerfolds and pinups.

Iirc, the front sun roof drains go down the A-pillar and into the sills under the doors. The sills have 4-5 drains along the central pinch weld, which have a habit of getting clogged up, either by rust or by anti rust treatment. The sills are open at the front, behind the kick panel as well. I...

Might be a secondary immobilizer, with a responder chip attached to your key ring. I have something similar, installed by the previous owner, but much more hidden away. I have to put the little battery powered key-tag close to a thingy like that. It is wired to a black box which is wired to the...

I would peruse the FSM diagnostics section and start checking. Or just hand it over to a diesel specialist workshop.

Chiming in based on my limited experience: 1 The electric connection from the EDU to the injection pump (IP) is known to fail, with a close to 100 % certainty on the early production years. There is a plug on the spill valve (SCV) on the IP which looses spring pressure on the two connector pins...

Congrats. Great choice for a base vehicle. Driving north in January? I would avoid salted roads if you want to keep the car for more than 5 years.

Valid points, and possibly the best solution, but, - T-ing in on the return will not give any possibility for air into the IP in case of a leak. - The webasto uses very little fuel.

When cylinder one is at TDC on compression stroke, both of the rockers are loose on #1, while both rockers on number 6 are tight.

what kind of mat? I've used this rubbery mesh designed to sit under rugs in your house. Cost is very low and they last a few years. I bought the smalest piece I could get (maybe 1 m2 ?), and cut off a piece to fit on top of the centre cluster, above radio.

I would guess either worn out motor, or increased friction in the screw. The adjuster screws need to be cleaned and lubed every few years. Otoh, if you have the automatic "up-and-away" function enabled, the motors will not last long. This is one of the few systems on the lc100 that does not last...

I see you get some help on mud, so that's good. Too bad the OZ forum is gone tho', as oem sub tanks are more common down there.

The design of the ATF cooling on the 100 is so that the atf goes through the bottom chamber of the radiator last, before entering the A/T, so whatever temperature the bottom of the main radiator has, that's what the atf will be at. Normally, that will be a good deal under the top radiator temp...

Depends on year/month of manufacture, and market made for. EVERYONE should have this info in the signature line, e.g. model code and month/year. The early ones didn't have a good, separate ATF cooler. The later ones had a better one. All depend on the main radiator to balance the ATF temp...

Fuse locations depend a bit on year/month of production, but I believe yours is before 2002, so it should be behind the left side kick panel.

Easier to just loosen the return, and see that you can pump fuel trough. The immobiliser relies on the 15A ECU-B fuse, btw.

Standard Toyota Red (Long Life) is always right. Why on earth would anyone consider anything less.

The 1hd-fte is easy with regards to priming. Pump by hand (not finger :)) until firm, then it will do the rest automagically. The only thing to keep in mind is that the injection pump is lubricated by the diesel, so if the tank is empty, we should not be cranking (or downhill starting (if...

Not trying to criticise a legit question, but does that really matter on a Land Cruiser forum? Can't see that there are any reasons for blocking out any type of user (as long as they follow forum rules). Cruiserheads are generally not responsible for the actions of the leaders of the state that...

Many people who do not understand the ahc, yes. :)

Welcome to the forum, Naz. This sounds like a classic example of too little fluid, typical of measuring the level without the engine running. There are also valves that do get worn (or clogged) and sluggish over time, but at only 280 k km, it's a bit early. Could be hastened by pollutants. When...

Welcome, but, nobody believes you without pics :) (or: We love LC pics, especially of yellow ones)

Then, as a test, I suggest cutting the pipe just behind the cat and run a long drill bit straight thru a few times, making sure of good flow. That test will tell you if the cat was the problem. Join the pipes with a generic exhaust splice. That's how I got rid of my turbo pressure fault code.

That's my thought as well

That would be The Fuel App (DrivstoffAppen) by Apperio AS. Generally, fuel prices are set by the station's chain HQ twice a week. Then the prices tend to drop in steps every 12 hrs or so, according to local competition, until the HQ dictates a new (high) price. There are also independent...

Depends on production month. According to ToyoDIY, it's the same headlight from 8/2003 until 4/2005 for Europe, and 8/2002 till 4/2005 for Australia. But the UK and the Oz are different.

True. Otoh, you can have for free: Blueberries, cloudberries, lingonberries, fish and such.

"Free / wild camping" is allowed in Norway, with certain conditions. So, wild camping accepted, but driving in the wild is not accepted. Rules for camping are generally made for hiking, but you can drive as long as there is a road, however small, as long as there is no gate or poster saying...

Again, your 80 looks insanely good. When I had both my 1997 1HZ 80 and the 2000 1HD-FTE 100 (back in 2001-2002), I would often choose the 80 over the 100, even for the long hauls, but then the speeds were normally under 60 mph. Even long inclines of 5-7% over 10 miles did not slow me down. And...